That’s a goal of mine to get it praying and stay praying for as long as possible
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Aight I would now give it another 2 days so 3 days between watering. If she still looks healthy in 2 more days then give her same as you did previous just to ease her into a schedule get her used to some nutes. I’ll keep watching and lend any advice I can 
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Right on man! Thanks. I was watching a few videos on using nectar and they recommend feed feed tea feed feed flush so I’m gna try that out…well i gotta get a tea they have a bottled tea I’m probably gna snatch up. I was using fox farms everything soil and the trio i also had general hydro Cali magic and silica blas…the difference is night and day SO FAR. @Explorer what nutes do you use?
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I use Canna with the canna coco coir medium. And feed feed phed water is a good one to follow it helps to remove some of excess salts left in medium from the nutes.
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That’s why for nectar they recommend the flush after 4 feeds and a tea. I decided to go with nectar because my mentor who’s gone rouge used the nectar line and had amazing results…ya think i can get away with topping next feeding?
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Looking good! Positive thinking man, it’ll be female 
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Have faith! You’ll get this one to harvest, she’s looking great.
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Thanks for the positive vibes all!
But i got issues with leaf color lol aside from it being too cold the discoloration on the leaves the blotches I’m kinda lost I’m thinking cal mag deficiency and nitrogen
mobile nutrients start from the bottom and immobile nutes start with new growth right? Haha
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Thanks, interesting quote, so the inmobile nuts would be the soil and mobile the ones you give while watering? 
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I don’t think that’s how that works i could be wrong. I think more so any nute can be absorbed thru watering and feeding but things like NPK cal mag are like the blood of the plant constantly circulating while zinc manganese and sulfer are like the skin the tissue the cell walls and what not so if there’s an immobile nutrient deficiency it’ll start with new growth because it’s struggling to create new leaves and what not
Does that make sense? I’m ripped lol anyone correct me if I’m wrong that’s just my understanding of mobile and immobile nutes @George
Soil just usually has enough of immobile nutes to sustain growth without a problem
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Well, hope someone clears this out. My actual grows were made with Biobizz Allmix, I read somewhere they have ClaMag deficiencies and had redbrownish spots in the old leaves like you. As with that soil you only give them pHed water in the veg state, that made me thought it could be a soil deficiency.
I was also advised to give them CalMag, so I made a tea with pulverised egg shells and Epsom salt and seems they are actually reacting (thanks @DaffyDuck). Need some experts here 
, let’s see what they say …
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Ooooo i hope so!
I’m kinda confused because nectar says how their whole line is calcium based. So it would t make sense with that knowledge…my pH could be off
Checking the second pic I see “the veins and stems turn purple and the leaves curl downwards” as stated here:
That would also explain the nutrient lockout, try to check the pH and ppm of the excess water to see if it is over the limits … 
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So here is the kicker, Mg is a mobile element Ca is an immobile one. But everyone will say it is a calmag deficiency, but most of the time it is a calcium deficiency.
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I Googled it and found some info:
·What does it mean for an element to be mobile or immobile in plants?
Generally speaking, mobile elements are those that can be moved from older to newer tissue in the plant, while immobile ones cannot be. For example, calcium is incorporated into the cell wall, so it is immobile; it cannot be relocated later.
Plants with a deficiency of mobile elements (e.g. nitrogen) will exhibit damage to older tissues as the nutrients are moved to new growth. Conversely, plants lacking immobile elements (e.g. calcium) will exhibit stunted new growth while the older tissues stay healthy. Some elements (e.g. sulphur) fall somewhere between these two extremes"
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Siggggggghhhhhhhh lmao what do i do it needs a watering so i guess i should start with my ph pen see if it’s calibrated right then do a slurry test and see what my numbers come out to for soil and I’ll go from there. @Esrgood4u pointed out that soil buffers water yeah it does haha i don’t think I’m to the point where my soil wouldn’t be able to buffer my water. From the tap it comes out to about 7.0 7.5 pH and 45 55 Ppms so my pH wouldn’t be off by much but i guess we’ll see after the test i did give it nutes maybe i shouldn’t of I’ve never used this soil before.
@George says lock out you could be right i May have overloaded it with nutes by giving them too early I’ll be back with results i was thinking P as well because of the purple stems but i was like no way it’s way too early but I’m
Thinking lock out now since the nutes had everything it’s showing deficiencies for
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Not sure what advice to give for soil but if in doubt just give it some plain PHed water again and see how it reacts to that. You’ve tried feeding it well see about just water now. Oh an test run off
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Yeah the slurry test is equal parts distilled water and soil then you take the pH and PPMs and that tells you basically what’s going on in the soil like run off haha
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My pH pen is fine the slurry test was 6.7 pH and 89ppm thos don’t sound like lock out numbers
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