Ok, where to begin here.
First, as @Roux mentioned, are the instructions for building the SolSheet X kit @Roux linked to above, which are sent by email with every kit shipped. They also available on the SolSheet X kit web page. They are detailed yet concise. Follow them precisely and you will build a great light. Improvise without knowledge of how LED light systems are designed, and your results may differ to say the least.
Manufacturing defects in the strips are certainly possible. That said, I’ve yet to have a bad X2 strip out of literally hundreds sold. Having 3 out of 10 from the same order bad suggests something else.
Second, no strip mounting screws come with the kit, so what did you use? I do not recommend mounting the strips to the baking sheet with screws, that is what the double-sided tape is for.
The non-lighting and dimly lit circuits, and the fact that you seemed to “fix” one or two strips by re-mounting them, suggests to me that the screws might be too large or too tight and are crushing or shorting out the circuit traces in the PCB. The picture in Post #30 of the strips each with one dead and one over-driven string definitely points toward shorting at the mounting holes.
The strip mounting holes are M3 size. If you used the screws supplied in the kit, meant for mounting the acrylic shield, you are using M4 size screws, which will certainly damage the PCB and likely the circuitry. SolStrips can be mounted properly with screws, but you must use the correct size and should protect the strips from crushing with a nylon washer.
Third, your baking sheet is not of the recommended size in the SolSheet X kit instructions. It may work, but make sure it is large and thick enough to properly dissipate the heat produced by the strips. The instructions specify a 26x18 inch, 12 gauge aluminum baking sheet. Your sheet can be a different dimension but should have a similar thickness and total surface area.
Fourth, I don’t see that you’ve attached the fan assembly. The fan is not an optional component on a SolSheet X unless you plan on running the strips at 50% of their maximum output. The baking sheet will not cool sufficiently at higher wattage levels, which could also lead to the kind of emitter string failure you show.
Fifth, your picture of the 240w driver shows both rubber stoppers removed from the voltage and amperage pots - which suggests you’ve adjusted both voltage and current. What have you adjusted them to? Did you use a meter? If not you could be over-driving the circuit, which could also result in the behavior you are seeing.
I set the driver for the correct voltage to deliver the rated maximum wattage at 100% of current, and adjust the current pot to 50% before shipping. While the current (I/O) pot can be adjusted freely to dim the light, the voltage pot shouldn’t be adjusted without a meter - a small 20 degree turn of the pot can change the total wattage of the driver by 100 watts due to the multiplier effect (Volts X Amps = Watts).
My recommendation is to use the instructions to build your kit exactly as specified. If you do that and still have malfunctioning strips I am always willing to work with you to make things right. But the kits do require some attention to the details, and I can only vouch for the designs I’ve create and tested.
-b420
