LED Bulb to Growlight

[WMoon518]

@Jellypowered

@Skiball

Why don’t you just screw them in and use them like normal? Sounds like a lot of work with zero benifit.

This. If you aren’t limited in space, just get some sockets and use them de-globed. No reason to take them apart and use separate drivers etc.

As I said in the OP, that was an option, but would take up about 4-6 inches of headroom, even with the globes removed. My space is an old shower that is just over 6 feet tall (another 1.5 feet if I build a frame to raise the lighting up - which I will probably do). They are going in a Aero setup (Tote) so they will be off the ground already by a foot to a foot and a half.

Also, as I stated, even decent, but cheap sockets, that have some kind of mounting ability, are almost $5 a piece. I have found a few cheaper on line, but once you add the shipping, it runs even more per piece. You are correct, though, this would be the easiest way to do it.

[WMoon518]

@toastyjakes

@Jellypowered and someone else did a similar build to what you’re describing

Do you have a link? I couldn’t find anything similar. Was it on OG?

[Skiball]

Bud with a scrog net that’s plenty of room. Plus netting is the best way to get max yield in small spaces. Your trying to reinvent the wheel here bud remember kiss.

[WMoon518]

@Albannach

You could probably parallel the lot with a current limiting resistor for each unit and do it fairly cheaply but it’s a load of work for not a lot of light. Solstrips can put out up to 9000 lumens for 20 dollars each. A couple of bits of angle and a driver wont come to all that much and you can add more strips as and when you can afford to.

Let’s look at it:

3 SolStrips (42w each @$20) - $60
1 Driver (non dimmable) - $50
Misc - $10
Total - $120

Amount I have to spend - $0

I would absolutely love to get a bunch of stuff from them, as it all sounds fantastic, but not in the cards right now.

Right now I have (2) 105W Daylight (5500K) CFL bulbs that I use for Veg and switch to (4) 45W (2700K) CFL bulbs for Flower. These I got for nothing (the 5500K) and $0.99 each (the 2700K)

My idea is to use as much as I have or can scrounge for free and as little as possible to spend as it will cut down on what I have for other stuff like Nutrients.

[WMoon518]

@Skiball

Bud with a scrog net that’s plenty of room. Plus netting is the best way to get max yield in small spaces. Your trying to reinvent the wheel here bud remember kiss.

My purpose was to field ideas about using “something I already have” KISS is great, but right now my rule of thumb is BATSU - Being Able To Stand Up which is why I grow.

[Jellypowered]

@WMoon518

Also, as I stated, even decent, but cheap sockets, that have some kind of mounting ability, are almost $5 a piece.

http://a.co/eeWyxLU

There ya go.

Take a peak at this thread too

Cheap light options for EZ-Cloner?

Hello fellow growers! New here, well not new, but new to posting and having an account! Great to see so many of us growers helping each other out. I am one of those in need of help lol. I have recently built an aerocloner (EZ-Cloner) and a new vegging room to put it in. I've had a hard time keeping my garden renewable these last couple years and am hoping having a dedicated room to veg and start clones will be the answer. I haven't decided how I want to light it yet. I'm trying to keep the…

[WMoon518]

@Jellypowered

http://a.co/eeWyxLU

There ya go.

Take a peak at this thread too
Cheap light options for EZ-Cloner?

I had not seen those before, and while they would work, they would still cost almost $50 for a dozen of them and, while they seem to be lower profile, they are still about 1-1/2" tall plus about 3" for the bulb (without the globe) still about 6" or more with any backing.

The whole reason for the post was to get ideas about doing it with just the emitter boards and with what I had. As I said in the OP, I thought about doing it as bulbs but didn’t want to lose the headspace in the shower. I had a friend who did renovations and thought I could get some vanity light fixtures from him to use the socket (they teld to be low profile) but, alas, he is doing new construction now.

[anon32470837]

Each of those lights already has a driver and heat sink built in.

I would sacrifice one and take it apart and see how easy it would be to separate them.

Idealy, you could have the driver portions outside the tent to keep some of the heat out of the tent. You could then wire all the drivers together and run them off one 110v AC plug. The outputs of each driver would be wired to each LED board. You wont need any additional heat sinks as they are already working fine the way they are. You just need to mount them some way and run the wires.

That assumes the driver circuits can be easily separated from the LED boards. I have not done this, so dont actually know if its possible or not. If ti is, it would solve all your problems.

Edit: This will only cost you some wire to run between the drivers and LED boards and a way to mount everything. You will want to use larger wire than is now connecting the boards and drivers because you will have a much longer run. Id suggest at least 16 ga wire.

Im not at all sure you can connect the driver outputs in parallel. You would need to test that to be sure they will be stable.

[TrevorLahey]

Like @anon32470837 said, I’d sacrifice one and see what’s inside, and if you’re not worried about heat you could probably daisy chain the boards quite easily. Keep in mind that these LED bulbs have warnings on them to not use in recessed fixtures so lowering their profile would of course be at your own risk.

Slightly off topic, but another option would be to salvage sockets from (modern) fixtures and daisy chain them together, it might not be pretty but it will work. If you’re super concerned about profile you could just offset it by training/scrogging like others suggested. Besides if you end up with more light, your plants will be shorter anyway.

[Jellypowered]

@anon32470837

Each of those lights already has a driver and heat sink built in.

I would sacrifice one and take it apart and see how easy it would be to separate them.

@WMoon518 for how to disassemble them, refer to @Mr.Sparkle’s excellent how-to! Sorry I keep suggesting things that won’t work for you, i’m only trying to help! I promise!

Edit: would help if I linked it.

Micro Growing with Mr. Sparkle *2018*

Thought i should share. Broke down some newer (2017-2018) 14w Philips screw in bulbs today. They are a cheap option for those who need a small DIY option for making some small space lights. First one i slightly damaged in trying to figure out how to break down these new versions, but they break down super easy and quick once you know the tricks so here are some pics of the process and what you need. All you need is a pait of pliers, razor knife, a putty knife or alternate thin flexible too…

[ReikoX]

@anon32470837 nailed it. Take them apart, mount them on your U channel, extend the DC wires and run the AC wires in parallel off a single plug.

[ReikoX]

Thanks, I was going to link that when you posted it.

[anon32470837]

I had forgotten about that tutorial. Its perfect

[WMoon518]

@anon32470837

Each of those lights already has a driver and heat sink built in.

I would sacrifice one and take it apart and see how easy it would be to separate them.

Idealy, you could have the driver portions outside the tent to keep some of the heat out of the tent. You could then wire all the drivers together and run them off one 110v AC plug. The outputs of each driver would be wired to each LED board. You wont need any additional heat sinks as they are already working fine the way they are. You just need to mount them some way and run the wires.

That assumes the driver circuits can be easily separated from the LED boards. I have not done this, so dont actually know if its possible or not. If ti is, it would solve all your problems.

Edit: This will only cost you some wire to run between the drivers and LED boards and a way to mount everything. You will want to use larger wire than is now connecting the boards and drivers because you will have a much longer run. Id suggest at least 16 ga wire.

Im not at all sure you can connect the driver outputs in parallel. You would need to test that to be sure they will be stable.

You are correct. I have taken one of them apart, The power board (driver) stands vertical in the case and plugs in to the LED Board with pins. They have a thin piece of aluminum, on the back, as a heat sink, I assume.

I saw a bucket grow from here on the site and it used 4 of these, with the board wired to each. He had said that you would probably need one board for each LED board, but my goal is to eliminate the “power board” completely and use some type of power supply/transformer, like from a laptop. The only other thing that I could tink of is to do a frame with a top and bottom. Run the power boards on the top, with all the wiring going to one of those multi-pole connectors and the emitter boards on the bottom with only wires going from one emitter board to one power board. I am guessing it could be all open, like the kit from SolStrip, but with additional strips on top as well. Should only be about an inch and a half to almost two inches thick.

One thing, is a bulb like a vape atomizer or connector, bottom pin is + and body(threads) are - ?

[Jellypowered]

@WMoon518

One thing, is a bulb like a vape atomizer or connector, bottom pin is + and body(threads) are - ?

That is generally how it’s supposed to be, but I know from personal experience (not recommended) it will work both ways lol.

If you had all of the same boards, and knew the specs of the power supply, you could rig a whole bunch of these “cobs” together with a true driver. The bulbs I took apart output 36v I didn’t try measuring current though.

[WMoon518]

@Lucy247420
I already have, see reply to @anon32470837.

@Jellypowered
I did see that and have conversed with Mr. Spakle already. I may just have to do it the way he did (one power board per emitter board. Take a look at what I said to @anon32470837. Let me know what you think. If I run the power boards up top and the emitter boards on the bottom, it should be nice and thin and have a frak load of airflow.

[Jellypowered]

Sounds like you’ve got a plan for sure. Can’t wait to see what you come up with. No reason it wouldn’t work.

[anon32470837]

@WMoon518

my goal is to eliminate the “power board” completely and use some type of power supply/transformer, like from a laptop.

That will likely not work very well - if at all. LED’s really really need a CCCV type power supply or a driver that is designed to work with LED’s. Actually, LED drivers are just CCCV type power supplies that are adjusted to the correct voltage and current. The voltage AND the current output MUST match what the LED’s want or they either wont work or will die quickly.

A laptop supply is NOT the correct type of power supply to drive LED’s. A simple transformer wont work either.

Use the drivers that come with the lights. They are free after all, and already work perfectly with these LED’s

[anon32470837]

@WMoon518

One thing, is a bulb like a vape atomizer or connector, bottom pin is + and body(threads) are - ?

No. The screw socket on those lights is AC - not DC. The center connector is the “hot” side and the threads are the “common” or neutral side of the circuit. It is very important you keep them that way for safety reasons.

Edit: Here is a link to the page where they explain it a bit more.

Polarity matters - Fine Homebuilding

[Mr.Sparkle]

Didn’t read all the responses but i will back up @Skiball in just using them in screw in format is the best option.

Sure i have dismantled them and used them like your are wondering in the past, but consider i had very limited height. At 6ft minus pots and say a frame for lighting, that’s way more than enough space to grow, just learn a bit of training techniques or scrog it as mentioned.

For “Ease” and cost that’s what i would do especially at the wattage your considering, definitely not worth the effort to break them down for literally about 2" of height all said and done. Also a heck of a lot easier to replace anything if you need to, or swap color temps, but definitely pop the domes

You said sockets are expensive where you are, but if you have access to home depot like i believe you mentioned. What you want to be looking for are the Leviton Keyless lamp holders. They are about $2 here in canada and $1.50 in the states

but gonna go back and read through the posts now to further understand the question/choices