But i think 400w is still 400w. Just because its more efficient doesn’t mean you get 600w of light out of 400watts spent. The price of leds is still a lot higher with comparable hps watts. You can get a used 600w hps for 50 bucks or less. A quarter of the price when you toss in the bulb.
I use both. 600 hps and a 230 HO blackdog led(broken), probably closer to 180 watts than 230. My carnivorous plants love the led. Personally, i dont mind the heat of the HPS because of where i live. I wouldnt be able to grow in the winter without it.
here gets hot sometimes goes to the 85 or 86 , plus electricity is really expensive to run those plus air conditioner, unless i move back to kaloko place and have my tent in the garage at night goes down to 35 to 40, living there i can consider an hps and not hps and lec i think they perform better than the regular hps
have any recommendation do you grow with led i think right?
Hey folks, here’s a question for everybody. I went to the above website and was reading the product description and the person writing it said this:
“Every grower knows you buy green light bulbs to walk in your bloom room and not affect plants in their cellular respiration cycle (sleep cycle).”
Ok, s/he’s wrong because I’ve never heard of this and I fall into the “every grower” category. Is this true? Can I actually use a green light to do maintenance and such when the plants are “sleeping”?
@Morgwar, have you or anyone else you know actually done one of these conversions?
The price on the Bridgelux cobs is $9.50 ea. The Anjeet 1800W is only $190 at Amazon, and takes 9 cobs. So for an additional $85.50 plus shipping that lamp could be turned into a decent 1200-1300 actual watt grow lamp? That seems like a truly good deal!
Since @GreenCaciqueHawaii, is trying to mind his (her?) electric bill, I’d suggest using the 800W version which, depending whether the 2700° or 3500° Bridgelux cob was chosen it would end up being either 548W or 588W. The 800W version is $99 and it would be and additional $35 for 4 Bridgelux cobs. Less than $150 for nearly an actual 600W lamp. Score!
I’d even be interested in taking on that same project for that. How damn difficult could it be to swap out cobs. I developed soldering skills about 100 years ago, when I was just a freshman in high school.
Does anyone have any experience with the AgroLED T5 replacement tubes?
https://www.zenhydro.com/agroled-isunlight-41-watt-t5-4-ft-white-5500k-led-lamp.html
I am buying a Sol Sheet original to add more light in my veg cabinet so I can grow some autos it there. That will add about 120W with the 150 watt driver @Baudelaire sells. I’d like to reduce the watts used in my 4 tube HO fluoro fixture. They are 54W each. The AgroLED T5 replacement tubes are only 41W each, saving over 50W. This will just be until I get a second Sol Sheet. If this works, I can put the 2nd Sol Sheet on hold while I get a new lamp for my Flowering room.
Yep I’m running the 6 cob version with upgrade
I posted the video for the conversion here. It’s one of the smaller lights but the same components.
Not my video
I assume since you are suggesting this conversion, that you are happy with it.
Edit: since the wattage of the Bridgelux cob lights is so much higher than that of the original lights, did you need to upgrade the driver(s) as well?
If these were dimmable, I’d do a 6 cob version, but I’d like to keep my watts consumed down to 750W and the 6 cob unit will be 822 to 882 watts depending on which color Bridgelux is used. Now that I look at it, that’s not too bad, I could possibly live with 822 watts and the light is longer than the 4 cob version. Definitely food for thought. At that cost, I could replace my HPS in the next month.
I can tell, no bear paws in the video. 
Edit2: corrected my estimated watts for 6 cob unit. Not nearly as bad as I thought it’d be…
i like SMD i think they do a better job selecting the amount of each color that you want i will like to hack my bloombeast if the fixture i got is good for w i like it and gave me a decent yield that the plants are crappy right now coming back from an infestation of gnats while i was out like 3 weeks that i was in bed but if have the opportunity later i will hack my bloombeast a520 and put a to make her full veg full power in flower she covers like a 4x4 so cando easy a 5x5 for veg
https://www.rapidled.com/citizen-royal-blue-cob-clu048-1212cf-b455/
Just so you’re all aware. It’s more than the 20% to the UK for strips. There’s a handling fee set by parcel farce aswell mate on every package.
And the only light i ever bought on Amazon was a root it prop light. Now that’s alright but no way I’d wanna chance a full run on any kind of Amazon blurple or Chinese import
Yes I designed my first LED fixture back in 2009 and was at a consistent 1.7 GPW. I had them built by Cidly over in China. The issue was just like a lot of Chinese built lights they just wouldn’t last but they crushed it.
In 2012 or 13 I met the owner of Illumitex at a show up in Detroit. Loved the light but they were around 3k when they hit the streets. Pffft, wasn’t gonna happen for anyone really and they went on a 50% off sale in 2015 so I picked up one of their Neosol NS [not made now] which is a true 270 watts. Tested it on my Instant Cookies cut running 6 plants in a 3x3 and went 17OZ. I haven’t built my own lights since.
I now run Illumitex and Fluence fixtures in all of my flower areas, and I use my lights in my breeder rooms.
I’ve seen nothing come close to either brand and really just won’t recommend much now a days. Everything else I have seen is pretty much disposable, and the market is absolutely flooded with re-branders selling someone else’s products.
i use to think those Advanced leds were pretty nice looking, i just couldn’t afford it at about 3 bucks a watt. I think the price on them has come down a lot, but ive never had one. My friends trying to get me to buy one because my 230 is crapping out on me. Half the lights went out, then the other half.
I run a perpetual, so it was running straight 24/7 for a few years at least. Not sure why it died.
I wonder if it died from heat, like a moron i had it next to my hps,like a side light, and never put much thought into it…untill now.
The existing driver’s have worked well for the last year and a half.
The six cob unit runs 310 watts at the wall
By itself the six cob unit has done very well in a 3x3.
But I doubled it by building another 6 vero 18s seperate
And now im burning plants closer than 18"
I think the 9 cob unit will be closer to 450 watts actual. It’s hard to say because the Chinese buy whatever drivers are cheapest, sometimes they’re 40watt sometimes they’re 50.
The reviews say anjeet replaces burnt driver’s but I haven’t had any issues
Citizen 12/12s work well with these too.
The drivers are the key to the total wattage. You could have 4 100-watt COBs but if the driver is only 50-watts that’s all you get. You just run each COB with less power (within specifications of course).
sounds a lot like bandwidth between memory and processors
@Morgwar: Excellent!!
In their Amazon ad, the say the power consumption is 320W. This means their description was pretty accurate with only 10W difference from what they estimate the power usage. That being the case…
Their stated power usage for the 9 cob unit is 540W, so it is probably close to that, unless they actually put a 40W driver in the unit.
@ReikoX Ok, so if I understand you and @Morgwar , the power usage will be the same with the Bridgelux cobs, but the efficiency of the Bridgelux is much greater than the original cobs, so they give off much more light.
Now I am thinking, four 4 cob units upgraded will use around 840W and give me excellent overhead coverage for a 4x6 grow area. At $99 ea with $9.50 ea upgrade cobs this setup would cost only about $550. That is something I can do over about a 2 month period (financially).
Last night (this morning!
), after you got back to me about having done this your self, I started looking at the reviews at Amazon for these lamps. There was at a half dozen reviews of folks doing just that upgrade. Several talked about the Citi cob upgrade. The very first review is someone doing the did the exact upgrade you did. Was that your review,by any chance? The review showed a fixture with only 2 upgrades in it and photographed it to illustrate the difference in brilliance. He also provided a pic of the light on at full replacement, but the one with the 2 upgraded cobs tells a lot more than a 1000 words.
BTW, I got my regular badge last night. I am amazed! I didn’t think I actually spent enough time here for that to happen. And I did it without speed reading and typing lessons. The best part: More love to pass around. I really hate it when I am reading a great thread with a lot of excellent replies and I run out of likes to give before I am done reading the thread. You guys are going to get loved to death 
Yep that’s mine lol.
Gives you a clear idea of what the old cobs were like.
So far solstrips are the only lights I might upgrade to. It’s a really decent rig.
I’ve been told the Citi 12/12s are even more efficient.
That one may have some good internal components!
What kind of wattage does it pull from the wall?
Those diode holes may be close to the size of the Vero 10 series cobs.
That photo is an excellent demonstration! Great review!
I’d read in one of the many ads on Amazon that Bridgelux was a superior cob. Some of the lighting sites say CREE is also a a high efficiency cob. I haven’t seen anything on the Citi yet. I’ll do a search on these and see if I can get some kind of comparison figures.
Some of the lights I looked at on lighting sites use the CREE 7 band cob and claim the 7 band is the best. Could be sales propaganda. Need some facts to back it up…
I’m very excited. Next week I am ordering a SolSheet original and a SolStix X3 (for my clone box). I thought it’d take me a year to save for a Timber “Fatty” light. I may still get that one eventually, but the conversion should make me happy enough to be able to take my time saving for the Fatty.
My grows are moving into the 21st century. 