7th Inning Stretch.....Everything you wanted to know about stretch and more

Hey man, I was lurking around searching for phosphorus related stuff and found this. I have no knolwege myself on P during stretch, but I can tell you that Jack’s nutrient line offers a bloom boost, which is stupid high in P, to be used the first 1-2 weeks of 12/12, specifically to arrest stretch. I’ve been following suit, and have really truly squat plants doing so. What’s the rub, Levinson? (name the show). Like if they are stretching… bring it on!!

“We recommend using our 10-30-20 Bloom formula for 1-2 weeks when transitioning from vegetative growth to flower. The formula is designed to shut down vegetative growth and initiative and sustain flower and bud production.”

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Hard to argue with real world results.
Interesting on the 10-30-20 recommendation.
I believe they used to suggest the 5-50-17 back in the 80-90’s

I think high P is supposed to promote root growth, supposed to promote shoots too.
I do think there is more to this story than meets the eye initially.
That whole plant steering monitoring system people use should start telling us more.
I wish I had one…LOL
Maybe one day they will share their results with us.

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I just wanted to add, I use high P toward the end of life.
When the plant is just about done but still pushing out hairs, I will use Koolbloom powder or MPK, whatever I happen to have.
I do like the koolbloom a bit better, but MPK works just fine in most cases.
And MPK is cheaper…LOL


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I remember many years ago, folks were spraying all kinds of chemicals on their plants in hopes of reducing stretch.
They would pay big money to prevent stretch.
Bushmaster come to mind.

It would seem most folks today are not interested in this sorta info.
Todays crowd is not impressed unless you have a product to sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle. :pensive:

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https://www.griffins.com/pdf/Controlling%20Plant%20Stretch%20Through%20the%20Morning%20Temperature%20Dip.pdf

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Extremely interesting. Glad I stumbled across this thread. What about if your growing style is dry amendments?

I’ve seemed to have done this without knowing that I was right in the pocket of temperature swings during the day/night. Had so much trouble dialing this in during the winter. Still having trouble during the summer getting the temps to stay within reason.

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My guess would be…
Try to hold back on the P amendments as much as you can without causing issues at least until after the first week of flower.
Then go as hard as you feel comfortable going with P from there.
A burst of P will also help initiate the flowering.

I would say in the case of extreme temperatures use the numbers as a solid rule of thumb, sure it is good if you can hit the numbers perfectly, so shoot for perfect but accept what you get without going too overboard on energy ect.

Nice one there, seems you have a keen sense about ya. :slightly_smiling_face:

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I appreciate that but some of members here, like you for instance, could seriously teach growing at a college with how experienced you all are. I take notes, bookmark pages and experiment with what I’ve gathered here. The added bonus is I’ve made true friends that are just like me. Incredible how this is available to us. Most of the times you just get to read a book or webpage but here you all are for asking questions and rubbing elbows. Just incredible and its not lost on me just how lucky I am. Living in great times brothers and sisters!

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@seeds2weeds Bump for more discussion on stretch.

So when a plant stretches “too much” it causes gaps in between each bud instead of one giant donkey dick bud?

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Yes you are correct.
This is usually refered to as internode spacing.
Bushmaster did a good job of this but that shit may very well be poison.
I do not suggest using it.

Low P during the stretch phase combined with the proper red to far red ratio and temperature control can help to tame stretch.
There are other factors to consider and I think I have covered most of em in this thread.

Good luck
shag

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@shag thanks for the advice.

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At the end of flower if you keep giving adiquate p with the k , the plant takes longer to finish ( fires out more new hairs as you are giving it hope to continue )

Reduce the p to send a good signal , that it’s time is done , the cycle is over , no confusion
: )

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Reduce light intensity , light hours , temp , ec and p ( n already low )

Take away all hope lol

We control it all indoors

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A new study shows far red reduces yield.
I have not read the study yet, but I suspect that statement may be incorrect in most cases.

Stretch can reduce yield by itself.
Rar red without the right ratio can cause excessive stretch.
The ratio of far-red to deep red is important.
Ratios are more important than levels.

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The morning dip:
http://www.ggspro.com/new/pdfs/upda…retch Through the Morning Temperature Dip.pdf

They have been using this practice to produce compact flowering plants in agriculture for years. I’ve actually found recently through some research that what’s even more effective is running a cool day temperature of 18C (64.4F) and warm night temp of 23-25C (73.4 - 77F) during stretch works a treat (genetics though may determine actual optimum temps for each strain) — here’s some research that explains how things occur re GA1 antagonism and DIF etc Thermoperiodic Stem Elongation Involves Transcriptional Regulation of Gibberellin Deactivation in Pea - PMC

Good info on reducing stem elongation

http://extension.umass.edu/floriculture/fact-sheets/controlling-plant-height-without-chemicals

I think also the thing that needs to be asserted about ‘negative DIF’ is that different species respond differently and I have also found this true of phenotypes - basically though it is possible to reduce stretch in cannabis by 25-30% using negative DIF.

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