Anyone experiment with UVA supplementation?

Always good to see people doing something new and experimental, there is always a never ending amount of stuff to mess about with. Amazing plant this!:+1:
IR would be just so out of the question for me here lol. Just the air temperature is too hot most of the time in summer, If I forget to fill the buckets even one day I can burn through 12 litres and come home to find completely crispy dried plants. :sweat:

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Are you running a hempy bucket system?
One summer a few years back I was away more than home and these little guys saved me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Plastic-Float-Valve-Ball-Aquarium-Control-Switch-for-Water-Tower-TDCA/233140208135?hash=item36483d4207:g:dt0AAOSwRTtbRyVk:rk:1:pf:0

They don’t work well with nutrient solution as after a few months they get clogged also need black drip line tubing. Clear tubes algae up.

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Yeah I’m interested in UVB as well, but there’s also a lot of evidence that UVA is beneficial from a plant health perspective, so I’m starting there.

What wavelength IR do you use? I have started using 730nm in one of my tents but only at the end of the light cycle. I’ve also thought about supplementing extra 660nm. I think there’s an active phytochrome around that specific wavelength.

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Yes UVA has a response. I don’t have the documents on hand rn. I’ll dig them up later if needed. Definitely test it if possible. I’ll have to look at what wavelength the zxmean I have use later also. I did notice whatever they use for UV had a good response, but it was intense.

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Yeah, I so should have done this, that would have been the sensible thing to do right? I was running DWC in 20 l buckets, but was manually filling them when they got down. Of course being a stoner, forgetting is inevitable, though coming home to 1/2 finished plants completely dried is a lesson that works as a good reminder lol. For exactly this reason I have just finished a reticulating system, it’s only two buckets but they are 30l and sit on a 70l res. The only issue with this so far is it takes 10 mins to equalise the PH when adjusting, and being 130 litres, it uses a lot of nutrients to get it to where it needs to be. That said, I am hoping not to have to change it often if at all during the bud cycle and once PH is dialed in, it’s going to be a LOT more stable.
Plan is that once I have dialed it in a bit and am not going to embarrass myself I’ll post a grow. :grin: I literally have just put a Cindy 99 (my own seeds) and a Tutankhamen( new for me) in to give it a run, so I might give it a few weeks to get things sorted and so long as I don’t kill them, I’ll post some pics! In the mean time I’ll see wha this experiment comes up with :slight_smile:

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For overall photosynthetic response, take a look at the YPF (yield photon flux). See, for example:

That normalized spectra details the known response of the photosynthesis systems and the relative quantum efficiency of conversion. If anything, it’ll give you an idea of the breadth of the spectrum and how efficient the plant utilizes that spectra. You’ll note that it does extend into the UV regions. It will not provide necessarily any more information that might be useful beyond that. Such as the differentiation between the PSI/II systems or the effects of heavy UV, etc…

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lol

That was my problem with SIP’s and soilless mediums, the ph would drop right before the end of the grow.
Since I’m home more and use at least 1gal regular pots, watering hasn’t been an issue.
King Tut sounds like fun!

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This is from the manufacturer:

Red 650~660nm, 620-630nm---- the best spectrum for plant flowering and fruiting;
Blue 430-440nm, 450-460nm ---- It is maximum peak points for vegetative growth and absorption;
White LEDs ---- Full-spectrum / wide-Kelvin provide fill for all missing spectrums and add Lux.
UV 380 - 400 nm ---- Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV (ultraviolet) has the unique function of sterilization and kills phytopathogenic bacteria.
IR 730 nm— There is little absorption by Chlorophyll here, but uses a nice portion. Flowering and germination is influenced.

The IR is supposed to have the same effect on a plant as from the light at sunset.

They say the UVA kills bugs too.

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UV also degrades THC though right? So I’m guessing there is a fine line between tweaking UV levels and degrading the stuff you want? So then, it’s how much, for how long in what UV wavelengths is ideal? it’s a bit like messing with things like GA,salysilic acid,methyl jasmonate etc. The limited amount of info means you are just going to have to make some controlled experiments. Luckily it’s getting cheaper to do!

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That’s a great question, I don’t really know. Short term, possibly. Long term, probably. Heat most certainly volatilizes terpenes.

[quote=“slain, post:19, topic:17950”]
it’s a bit like messing with things like GA,salysilic acid,methyl jasmonate etc.

Oh yea! That’s what so great about it. Some good scientific literature out there but much is left wide open for discovery…

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Could you explain a bit more what you mean here please?

Cheers :wink:

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I used those floats to regulate water from a remote source (5gal black bucket and lid) to my self irrigated or watering planters.

  • Mounted a 1/4 hose barb to the bottom side of the bucket.
  • Elevated the bucket so the barb was higher than the inlet to my self watering planter’s reservoir,.
  • Ran 1/4" ID black drip irrigation line between the two and
  • Mounted the float pictured to the inside of the SWP’s reservoir.
    If I ever find pics of that setup, I’ll post them but no promises!
    They were really small planters, 16oz and the res was one of those plastic shoeboxes from Sterilite

http://www.sterilite.com/SelectProduct.html?id=442&ProductCategory=179&section=1

Just right for two small pots.

Edit:
Those plastic boxes have to be wrapped in aluminum foil. Haven’t found a paint that will stick and be durable.
This guy has something similar.

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Cheers @spaceman :wink:

That video is cool.
I’m loving the idea with the pop bottle to water the the plants with on the mans 3 ways to water.
It’s a great idea.

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Neat! So the bottom of the planter always had a couple inches of water in it and the plants sat in the planter?

Edit: also, krylon fusion spray paint sticks to EVERYTHING, it works great on plastic

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If you use a bottle upside down you can set the float valve to just keep an inch or two in the res.
The plants get water but aren’t soaking alot of root mass.
Don’t use weed block to seal your pot, those blue reusable walmart shopping bags work great at keeping the roots in.
Thanks for the tip but Sterilite products repel paints pretty well, krylon won’t last.

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I’ve got a couple of these in my tent. They make a noticble difference in flower. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112730559185

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Can you define ‘noticeable difference’? As in, in your experience is this something worth doing? They are cheap so I guess it’s no major outlay. I am just curious on every-bodies individual results on this, there is very little data out there to be found.

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I use them the last 2.5 weeks of flower. It really seems to shorten the flower time. Resin glads fill up quickly after and seem to sprout more. I had a giant extremely dom sativa from a mix pack. That I placed directly under one of these lights. I was able to harvest it 4 days after the others. Obviously it could have benefited from longer flower. Yet to get decent bud from what was prob a 11+ week strain is solid evidence imo. Also the light I linked I believe is uvB. Not sure about the other wattages but this light is def more of a blueish color.

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I’m gonna order one of those once my seed order is in.
We’ll test it out with a uvb test card.
Fingers crossed!

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Plzz let me know, thanks. Ohh and I suggest taking off the plastic dome cover. It was suggested else where and it did seem to make a difference.

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