It may sound stupid but here in the UK we run the same voltage. Our plugs have a changeable fuse inside the actual plug that goes into the wall as a safety measure because of the higher current.
These often blow and need replacing. Your country having similar higher voltage may possibly have the same or similar setup
Edit- ignore this. I didn’t read the entire thread. You have light showing but dim
OP Just wondering, did you mount them on a metal plate as a heat sink and possibly cause some type or short , or are they from the factory that way?
When I built my light I used QB 132’s wired in parallel and used an aluminum cookie tray to mount them to which caused them to be grounded to each other,
I was wondering maybe yours need to be on rails, Just a thought.
I dont have direct experience working on these boards etc… but In the automotive trade I constantly deal with wiring issues. Without access to a multi meter I’d first disconnect all wires I put in, double check there is no unnoticed insulation causing a bad connection, then verify they get re installed correctly and securely. Follow that up with a wiggle test. (Plugged in and on give each wire a little wiggle and watch for change). As @STIGGY mentioned make sure you arnt causing an issue by grounding out where you shouldn’t be. The fact that both drivers do the same says your issue is somewhere in the boards and or wiring you’ve done!. Once you can get your hands on a meter it will be much easier chasing wires.
@Grease_Monkey I wonder has he changed out the drivers and does it cause the same problem ? Could be defective driver also. (or a customer return that was reshelved after someone returned it after screwing with the adj knob)
Does not look bad but it will require some trouble shooting with your meter.
I read it as he has tried both drivers with the same result. Besides the adjustment knob there isnt much he can check on the drivers without a meter.
I’m not 100% on how the drivers work but my dumbass would probably try to hook a normal lightbulb upto it and see if it turns on lol but that would probably be a bad idea
With the set-up and IoAdj settings as is, the voltage appearing at each of the LED strings does not appear high enough to cause them to go into full conduction.
In the following diagram (from wikipedia) Vd is the point where the LEDs “turn on” (this is a diagram for a diode):
The Vd from LED to LED have slight variations. Values less than Vd will emit dim light or no light but will still conduct some current. What you see in the above snippet of the ops array is the effect of Vd variation.
For a current mode driver, the voltage is tied to the current being supplied. The current being supplied to the array is controlled by the adjustment knob (or, alternatively, some sort of fault).
I’ll admit i don’t understand the pic lol. But I understand what you’re saying about the fading light. Could it be possible he needs to hook up in parallel rather than series? Maybe try 1 board only?
Like in above pic you would need 2 wagos not one, you’re basically wiring all 4 wires together with that one connector.
Like I said I may be wrong as I havent used the name brand wagos but the off brand ones I use all 4 ports connect each other, just an easy and safe way to splice multiple wires.
Just went and checked and yeah I’m pretty sure that’s your problem @Fill_Watertank
That wago is shorting + into -
Your missing a wago connector.
You can remove the blue and black wires from that connector and put them either in another wago, or a wire nut/merrette or even electrical tape just to verify.