Hey guys took some pictures of my RDWC mostly setup would like some opinions from you before I finish.
I used 2 inch PVC for most of it and have a little bit of 1-1/2 inch that connects to my pump.
It will be a 1000 GPH inline pump still waiting for it to arrive.
4x 70L totes for the plants
1x 102L control bucket
My main concern is I raised the control bucket 1foot off the ground so I wouldn’t have to cut any holes in my tent. I think as long as I don’t put too much water in the system I won’t run into any flooding issues just figured id ask here before I glue it together.
I Think that setup might result in floods. The bottom of the control is higher than the top of the buckets so if there is any water in the control it will flow to the buckets right away.I could be mistaken but that’s what it looks like from here.
I’m going to be using some pretty big 10 inch net pots so I think as long as the 4 plant totes are never filled past halfway the control bucket willl be able to fully drain into the 4 totes without flooding. Wouldn’t mind if a couple other people let me know what they think, I’ll cut some holes in the tent if I need too.
(The control bucket is only bigger than the other buckets because it was on sale and cheaper… I don’t intend on having it filled with alot of water.)
Basically I should have room for roughly 280L of water in my system not accounting for any space root mass might take up before i have to worry about flooding. In the event of a pump failure that would leave the 4 smaller totes full of water and the control bucket empty.
If I’m completely wrong about this though please someone let me know lol.
Test it first… fill your buckets 🪣 with designed level of water while running, same with the control 🪣. Then cut the power. Your control should empty and the other should fill, Not over fill. Otherwise 2 options. #1 put control bucket on the floor, just like the others. #2 buy and install a float valve, the same that toilets use.
Still waiting for the pump to be shipped in before I can really test it just appreciating all the input until then! Maybe I should just cut some holes in the tent so I can put the control bucket on the floor. I think I’ll benefit from having it on the cold concrete floor also.
I’d avoid that lift if possible. I made a bend combining 4x 90 degree bends to get up and into the tent via the access hole. With a 2" return, keep an eye out for root clogging. Almost happened with my 3 inch returns and I’ve heard it even happen with 4 inch! (*if you are lucky ;D)
Def fill the thing and let it run for a day at least to see how things are working. I left mine running in the garage for a week to make sure no water damage chances when it came inside. Also, there are cheap sensors you can get for basement flooding that I use in my setup. One for in the tent and one for outside by the res. If there is ever a leak an alarm sounds and I get a warning alarm via wifi anywhere I am; even at work!
All the best and looking forward to seeing things “flow”
(You can see my setup in my RDWC thread if your interested; but looks like you got all the bases covered)
If you get any flow restrictions between tubs it will result in a flood because the rez will always level out via gravity and any tubs before the obstruction will be overfilled. In my experience it’s highly likely at some point that roots will restrict flow… you could optionally fit an overflow at the top of each tub that goes somewhere to drain, or just one on the res that runs to drain or you could fit a float switch in the rez that cuts the pump in case you get a blockage and it fills beyond a certain level. It always pays to have a failsafe built in, it’s almost guaranteed that at some point shit goes south one way or another…
if your control bucket is not level with your plant site buckets, youre going to have a bad time. a couple holes in your tent is a small price to pay for proper water flow and even water levels
1.5" pvc might work for return, but i can tell you with certainty that 2" connectors and a 1" return works well. you generally want to step returns down to half the size of the pipes theyre pulling from to maintain optimum water pressure in an rdwc setup
Well decided to go with this. Hopefully when the pump arrives I can run the PVC straight into it. Then all that’s left is running a bit of 1 inch PVC from the pump to the control bucket.
You’re right! The shut off valve is a good thing to have in play even in you never end up using it. I have them but have never needed to turn em but knew the moment I need them and they are not already installed i’m going to be angry at myself.
I’ve just been running an active aqua submersible pump 400 gph using the inline configuration to keep it from warming the nutrient solution. Costs me a whopping $40 canuckbucks + taxes.
gh tnc 1200 gph with a shutoff valve on the return
the thing is built like a tank. mine have been running 24/7 for about 4 years now, no problems whatsoever
Mag-Drive pumps are a little pricey, but they’re darn solid! (Or you can opt to get two cheaper pumps. Keep one as a backup just in case.)
That new setup looks better. I’d also suggest getting a 50gal brute garbage bin, and connecting it to your control bucket with a float valve. That way you can keep your water and ppm’s topped off at all times.
I’d also shine a light through your lids to make sure they’re really light proof. If not, you can always cut some poly/panda film and place them over the lids. It will help keep things light tight, and also provide a bit of light reflection back up.
Look for pumps that are used in Saltwater Aquarium setups, something like “Mag Drive” Hydor usa" or “Eheim” brands, they can take a beating when it comes to “Sand” or Salt aka Nutrients in the water and in my opinion are tuff to kill… whatever pump you get, go oversized and run it dialed back, this way the pump isn’t “Maxed out” since its gonna be running 247 basically.
