Just had a crazy thought that just might work. Hee Hee Hee Know how you can harvest earthworms with electricity? Well your soil is already too wet, Right? I know I used a 12 volt solar panel for charging car batteries when I was experimenting with electro culture, plants loved it. I was also pumping CO2 into the soil under the central root mass, Plants loved that too. The CO2 may have caused a higher PH that was hard to lower, kept bouncing back up. Either of these might be a possibility for non pesticide remedy. I know while using them had no pest problem. Did try frass this last year also. White fly usually hits bad through whole grow, Didn’t show till middle of bud this last time. Did a foliar milk spray just before dark with a rince a couple days later. The whitefly never got heavy. What if any really worked I do not know. I could tell a lot better with a hundred plant grow. You might even be able to use a hair dryer on top layer of soil. Depending on growth stage whether you kill them or drive them deeper, Or can cover topsoil with ice to freeze the little buggers and maybe get some purple. I grow outdoor If you were to test these indoor would be more controled. Also unnecessary to use cannabis for testing
A vacuum cleaner with a floor sweep attachment will suck up whiteflies easily. I have used a bamboo stake to stir them up. Soap spray will kill a lot of soft bodied insects.
Earthworms can be harvested by grunting too.
Gnatrol or other concentrated BT product will end your troubles. Period.
I dream of the days to just be worried about fungus gnats again. I thought they were annoying until i dealt with other pests haha. That being said, two things I have done to deal with fungus gnats in the past and both worked well.
First is I used mosquito bits in my rain water barrel, this worked pretty damn well but when it’s too cold for to collect rain water I switch to city water and never take the time to use bits with the city water. I will always add to my rain barrel either way cause it does keep the actual mosquitos from breeding in my barrel. Obviously they don’t mess with my grow but they mess with my life 
and porch sittin. I have used the little pellets and the bigger chunks that are like a little donut.
The second and the most successful is to just stop watering plants from the top until the gnats are gone. Combine with yellow sticky traps and you will have even faster success. Over time, I have moved to a system of growing where everything is bottom watered it’s whole life. When in solo cups, it’s a double cup and the inner has some holes so i water the outer cup and it drinks from the bottom. Then in its teenage years in a fabric or plastic pot, I have them sitting saucers and water the saucer instead of the soil surface. Later in life, they get set on wicking bases and continue to get water from the bottom until harvest. I do water from the top every time i top dress in veg or flower. They will get an occasional top water with some microbes and calmag. I would say maybe once every week or two they get wet up top. Key is that they are dry most of the time so the fungus gnats don’t lay eggs.
Now if someone could please tell me how to never get aphids or two-spotted spider mites… Those I have been fighting for some time. I win some battles but the war wages on. Maybe I should just move and start my life over. Thankfully my girlfirend’s 100 house plants never seem to get mites or aphids. So I can probably rule out that they are coming from those and luckily my pest problems stay in the basement by some miracle.
Great post oldhippy!
I leave a space for coco husks, like mulch, on the top of my plants, so gnats can not get down in there.
Then as Greenup stated, just fill your saucers, in about 45-60 seconds, it will be wicked up, I then add more, I come back an hour or so later, to check if wicking has stopped, and empty the saucers if way to much is in there. Reduce, that initial amount, next time.
Find the Once and Done thread, as it’s the best bug eradicator, I’ve used. I made up the half batch recipe and may be enough for 10 years or so.
It also stops the invaders, on our ornamentals, we bring back indoors each fall. They get sprayed down, and I only give them water once or twice a winter, I add a bit of the OnD in the saucers.
Amazing stuff, cheap, safe, easy to make.
Luckily i just toss bacterial larvae killer in the ole hydro resivoir and bam RIP!
I destroyed an entire grow for spider mites. I’m lucky that where I live I have to import them as clones, so I’m super careful with clones now.
Lots of remedies for fungus gnats!
For me me personally, it’s an organic solution.
A combination of Diatomaceous Earth, Mosquito Bits(BTI), and sticky traps will always annihilate and keep at bay permanently. 
Try Growsafe. Two actives are just corn oil and soybean oil. Can be used seed to chop. I tried it due to the reviews and it worked, extremely well. One application and it was like nuke went off for insect life on thrips and mites. I use it diluted now as my only IPM once a week as it smokes PM too.
This ^ do this. Methods like this also eliminate any problems from over/under watering or bad watering habits in general.
I haven’t heard of it but I appreciate the recommendation! I use a handful of things to try to control the pests, i like to rotate through them so maybe this is one i should add. I have had great luck with @JohnnyPotseed solution (https://overgrow.com/t/mites-thrips-aphids-one-n-done-with-pics/).
I have a question for all your experts out there… I want to spray some of my flowering babies with Johnny’s and the like. But I never spray those inside… today it is currently like 30F degrees outside this morning with a high in the 50s. Do I need to worry about hurting the plants if I take them out into the cold and cover them in cool liquid and then rinse them. Rinsing isn’t needed but I like to get all the dead bugs off. I am guessing nothing bad will happen to the plants for such a short visit outside but doused in cold water and outside? I can bring them inside to dry so they won’t need to be out there too long.
They’ll be fine, so long as you bring them back in right away. It’s 20°F outside here and I just up-potted two plants outside. Yesterday I planted a clone in a pot while outside too and it’s doing fine. The Happy Frog I used had frozen chunks in it.
You can spray em indoors, cuz. Any over-spray won’t hurt any other plants at all.
I did spray in doors once… but then my tent walls and floor become kinda sticky and dirt stuck to that. Also I like to blast off a bunch of the aphids with water from the hose first. But if you have any tips for spraying them indoors, I am all ears.
Well, the only thing I can say is…if you take em out to spray, then put em back in…you’ll just be putting the plants ‘back into the lions den’, so to speak. just IMHO, but I’d spray everything at once with the MTA mix… floors, walls, as much of the ceiling as you can without hitting the lights (unless you turn em off so as no damage, then turn em back on after dry) the pots sides, soil top etc
I shall give it a try again. Thanks Johnny.
It will dry pretty quickly, and you’ll eliminate a LOT more of them F’ers than doing it the way you spoke of, brother.
Is it OK to spray on flowers putting on trich’s? Seems like the alcohol would do a dissolving job on them.
The Ethanol in the MTA mix is actually beneficial to the plants, and can be sprayed all the way up to day of harvest.
ISO will dissolve the trichs/THC, yes.
Ethanol is also used in preparing tincture/oil, precisely because it dissolves the trichomes. If it didn’t, you’d end up with hash instead. I’m not sure if it being part of an emulsion affects it - emulsified alcohol might not react with anything outside the emulsion - but generally ethanol sprayed on flowering plants would dissolve the trichomes. I haven’t seen any tests either way on plants sprayed with the MTA, and I can’t seem to make my search engine recognize the question so I can’t find any relevant research. 
If you have any details on how alcohol in an emulsion reacts with trichs, I’d be interested to read it.