This is one of the first things I thought about. I brought home cow panels for my veggie garden this way. I also bought a few sheets of sofit material that I had chopped in half at the yard. I’m just hung up on having clean cuts because they’ll be external in this case. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about the looks too much, it’s going in the shed after all.
The foam is 45 minutes away, and the only road is the freeway. I’m not sure how well it would hold up. I should swing by the local builders supply and see if they have it. If it’s a 10 minute back-road drive that’s what I’ll do. 45 minutes on the highway…I’m not sure. What’s your opinion? Driving slow would be implied, and I don’t mind that.
I’m going to need to cut the two sheets at 6’ anyway to build the sides. I’ll measure my car when it’s light outside and see if that could fly.
So, the last time I cobbled something like this together for testing laser systems at high temperature, I used gorilla glue with the film stabbed through with a screwdriver on mating faces. It worked really well, and expanded to fill the gaps left by my shitty cuts. What I’m not sure about, is what should I use for the rails? As designed, I’m using 1/4" x 1/2" stock (about 30 feet, or 4x 8’ lengths). Each rail needs to support only about 4oz of shear load bonded to the foam, so strength isn’t really terribly important. I haven’t researched what I can actually buy in that size range yet. I don’t have a table saw nor access to one at work to rip my own.
If you place two lengths of scrap wood on top of foam befor strap in ( front to back ) this will stop wind catching underneath boards at front.lifting them up and stop them bending or breaking in the wind ( freeway )
What about a wire attached to battery ( heats up wire glows hot ) and use this to cut boards for nice clean cut
Cutting with saw is messy and not nice finish , you could use aluminium tape to hide edge tho
I definately like the hot-wire technique. I did that to cut wings for model airplanes back in the day. Great idea on the support boards on top of the foam!
Be a bummer tho if dust , crumbly foam got its way to the finished buds , better to clean edges up with aluminium tape and give box a good wipe down befor use , plus the taped edges will protect the cut edges from being abused over time : )
I’ve built a drying room versus a chamber only because I am a believer in hanging whole plants or whole branches if it’s outdoor plants. Humidifier, dehumidifyier, heater and exhaust/intake fans all running on Inkbirds. It is usually very arid here as well though I am not in a desert region and I will see humidity averaging 15 to 20% for most of the winter months. The air literally sucks the moisture out of anything surprisingly fast.
I just buck off all the fan leaves and tips of non frosty parts and hang em. I like to see 10 days in the hanging room then into paper bags for 4 to 5 days then into the jars. 14 to 17 days from chop to the jar and complete darkness for the whole process except when I’m handling it of course LOL the slower the better
I also live in a hot and dry climate. I built this years ago and i used a humidity control from ali. In the back near the bottom are 2 one way jacuzzi valves and there are 2 more on the inside top surface near the front. In the top chamber is a $20 bissel vacuum motor that sucks the humid air out of the chamber when the humidity control turns it on. I call it the curalyzer.
Here’s my Inkbird-controlled automatic drying box, I think this is about as bare-bones as you can go and still get reliable results. I’ve since ported a second box onto it, in line with the first, still works great and now with twice the space. I think that in the next year or two I will upgrade to one like yours constructed out of foamcore, and larger/easier to clean.
Yeah, I started building it today. Pictures coming tomorrow, here’s my cut plan for 1" XPS foam.
I couldn’t get the 2" foam I wanted with clean edges. The 1" heavier XPS foam has nice edges and the door will seal well. My car couldn’t fit a longer than 66" section of foam, so that’s the new height, rather than the planned 72". Because it’s monsoon season right now, I added some space for a small dehumidifier. Essentially, some minor size adjustments to make due with what I have going on. Here’s the modified design laid out into cuts made.
I’m already well into construction of the cabinet but don’t have time to organize the pictures into a meaningful post with descriptions and explanations yet. Should make some progress on that tomorrow or Tuesday. It’s looking good though
The revised geometry is going to accomodate 16 trays, so it should be something like 5lbs wet, if I trust the cannatrol specs. I won’t find that out until fall. As I’ve gotten the pieces cut out, I’m thinking maybe it’s a tad on the large side
I’ll be able to dry my autos soon, and my “Fast” vesion Black Domina that’s already in flower outside as “trial” runs in the next month or two.
Sunday got most of the pieces cut out and the fans glued up (make sure they were cured when I assembled it.
The circulation fan partition has the 3x 5" fans and the water heat exchanger for temperature control. Like mentioned before I’ll either use a big cooler of water or a laser water chiller/heater “borrowed” from work.
