Out of the tap. Two different samples, same faucet, Two pictures, just to be sure.
EDIT: I have test strips!! See the picture.
I’ve deliberately been growing weed with the simplest techniques possible, increasing the complexity only when needed and when I understand why.
I’m about to pop some new seeds and have decided to monitor and correct pH now and probably forever more.
I just finished 2x Barney’s Farm Cheese with about 160 g each net. Before that, about 130 g on a single Bruce Banner. I think I did most things right, but I was flying blind on pH.
If u grow organic, i would say u dont have PH anything.
But 8.5 seems high as hell, i dont know if the microorganism and the soil can handle that longer then 1-2 Months. Maybe do 1 little plant and try that out without PH’ing. The other plants i would PH.
I water (and AUTOPOT) with my Tapwater… 7.6 PH. And have no problems.
In Coco i would adjust that to 5.7 - 6.0.
If u are growing just 3 tiny plants, maybe mix your tapwater with bottlewater?
Otherwise an RO would be the best.
PS: U guys now, that lemon juice is not stable? So the PH will rise again.
I think the plants dont like it. So thats why i didnt take action and water with PH 7.6.
Damn, my city water is neutral
My well is equal to lemon juice lol.
I highly recommend a ph test kit for water
Like for fish tanks.
You can always make sure that way
I fill 5 gallon Bucket then check the ph.
It’s been 3 years since i did that lol
I narrowed it down to 1.5 cap falls of ph down
To a 5 gallon Bucket and I guess we’ll water is always constant
Gl
About the same, it’s hard.
A pinch of PH down salt for 3-4L with little nuts.
A bit more for just plain water.
If you go heavy with nuts, you should absolutely check ph 10min after mixing nuts, before phdown.
A “thick” soup is going to change the ph by it’s own. you might not need to ph down at all.
With no PH down, I had some signs of locked nutrients for sure later in bloom (I also do re-pot 2 times, so fresh ph-balanced soil added each re-pot keeps it stable longer).
Updates:
Last grow cycle, I fooled around with apple cider vinegar and much more. Stability was the concern that I read about for every major work-around, so. . .
I have a test kit now, and pH Up and Down to fix the problem.
This was only a tap water test
I will mix my nutes in the first, in the future, before I add any pH up or down
I don’t know the PPM or TDS, but I know it’s hard water with lots of calcium
I am really resistant to going too far down the “must have perfect water road”
I understand TDS has a lot to do with this, but again, my goal is the simplest and best possible grow. I’ve clearly learned that pH is mandatory, so I’ll handle that. Now, also, I’ll SEE the difference it makes. But I don’t want to open the can any wider than I have to, and running out to buy more stuff now isn’t my plan. I just BOUGHT the bare minimum about of stuff. If every investment always spurs more investment, I’ll be broke. (Right now, opening the can wider would mean tracking TDS and PPM on a routine basis, I think – and that’s more than I want to do.)
Mostly, I was SHOCKED it was this high, and shocked I’d been able to grow ANYTHING in it. Granted, my yields haven’t been super, but the plants have been generally healthy and fine, with zero obvious nutritional problems, imho.
Again, I’m on city water. I’ve checked every original document, from weekly well-water inspections where our water is refilled from. Every form filled out says “7” everywhere. I get the distinct feeling someone’s just writing that shit down. . . I’ll talk to my neighbors, too. lol
hey man, thank you for this. I WANT to grow more organic in the future – organic soils, top dressings, etc. Like perhaps Coast of Maine and Gaia Green, simple organic.
What do you mean, if I grow organic, I won’t have to worry about high pH water? Can you explain more? Thank youi!
(Right now, opening the can wider would mean tracking TDS and PPM on a routine basis, I think – and that’s more than I want to do.)