Smashing it again TT
They look top notch…
P J
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Sweet! I’m excited. First intentional “s1” seed I had anything to with. I expect some variety, but not too much. My OSS s1 last summer had less stem resin, but bigger buds.
You’ll have some trees on your hands, just like you wanted😁 did you find chicken poo?
I had mentioned that I used something called coop poop, but was mistaken. It’s just pelletized chicken poo, and it’s great stuff.
Also if you see bunny poo while walking around, and no one is watching…scoop that shit up! It’s great for topdressing.
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Nice I love curved lower leaves, as in your last photo of your pco hybrid. Super cool. Looks great!
Out of all of the plants which one is your favorite?
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Thanks! Well these RS x PCO are definitely my faves. I love the aroma of that first plant, but I’m sure the others will start developing some soon. That spindly one does remind me structurally of my favorite Red Snake pheno. It had a really wild jungly look that reminded me a lot of your pearly type Oaxacans and the aroma was sweet floral citrus and honey. High should be excellent if past examples hold. 
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Sexy looking plant!
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Thanks man! Your Punto Rojos are pretty exciting too. Hope you get some girls…they take a long time so buckle up and be prepared for 16-20 weeks. The last four are a blast though and aromas are intoxicating. 
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Oh yes…real healthy
So glad to see you growing these…very interesting.
Good luck…
P J
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I found coop poop on Amazon and have incorporated it into my Earthboxes along with some Down to Earth dry amendments in “spikes” into the soil as you had suggested. I’ll have to ask around which friends are raising rabbits.
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Amazing looking plants wow! Chicken poop I got horse poop am I missing out on its benefits?🤦
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Do not be misled by the N-P-K numbers that suggest manure is less powerful than chemicals. The values of manure and organic fertilizers in general, are often based on the relative amount of nitrogen (N), phosphoric acid (P) and potash (K) they contain. While these are important elements, it is misleading to make a direct comparison between farm manures and chemical fertilizers on the basis of the relative amounts of N-P-K.
Alpaca Manure (1.7-.69-1.2)
It is lower in organic matter content than the manure from most other barnyard livestock (cows, horses, goats and sheep) creating a higher concentration of nutrients as well as improves soil texture and water-holding capacity. This lower organic content allows alpaca manure to be spread directly onto plants without burning them. It is the decomposition of organic matter content of the manure that indicates their efficient digestion system. The nitrogen and potassium content of alpaca dung is comparatively high, an indication of good fertilizer value.
Bird Manures
Bird manures tend to be “hotter”, where the plants can be burned easily if overused. Overall they are much richer in many nutrients, especially nitrogen, which marijuana plants require in their veg phase in copious amounts. But not the flower phase, thus this type of fertilizer use is limited.
Chicken Manure (1.1-1.4-0.6)
brown hen chicken for chicken compost
It is common among farmers. It’s high in nitrogen, (great for vegging plants not flowering), but can easily burn plants unless composted first. A small amount of dried chicken manure can be mixed in small concentrations directly into soil. Chicken manure is also a common ingredient in some mushroom compost recipes. One potential concern for the budding organic farmer, is the large amount of antibiotics fed to domestic fowl in large production facilities. It is also suggested that some caution should be used when handling chicken droppings, whether fresh or dried.
Poultry Manures (1.1-1.4-0.6)
These are often simply chicken droppings mixed with the droppings of other domesticated birds including duck, pigeon, and turkey. They are “hotter” than most animal droppings, and in general they can be treated like chicken manure. Animal Manures vary by species, and also depending of how the animals are kept and manures are collected. Urine contains a large percentage of nitrogen and potassium. This means that animals boarded in a fashion where urine is absorbed with their feces (by straw or other similar bedding), can produce organic compost that is richer in nutrients.
Cattle manure
Cattle Manure (0.6-0.2-0.5)
Steer manure is one of the old standbys, but it’s not the most beloved because it often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds. It is considered “cold” manure since it is moister and less concentrated than most other animal manure. It breaks down and gives off nutrients fairly slowly. It can be an especially good source of beneficial bacteria, because of the complex bovine digestive system. Recent expansion in the use of bovine growth hormones to increase milk production certainly could become a concern for organic farmers trying to source safe cattle manures. The healthier the cow, and the healthier the cow’s diet, the more nutrients its manure will carry.
Goat Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9)
It can be treated in a similar fashion to sheep dung or horse manure. It is usually fairly dry and rich and is a “hot” manure (therefore best composted before use).
Horse manure
Horse Manure (0.7-0.3-0.6)
Horse manure is about half as rich as chicken manure, but richer in nitrogen than cow manure. And, like chicken droppings, it’s considered “hot”. Horse manure often contains a lot of weed seeds, which means it’s a good idea to compost it using a hot composting method. Some sources of mushroom compost contain large quantities of horse manure and bedding in their mix. So from one standpoint, horses manure use in herb growing is already fairly well documented.
Sheep Manure (0.7-0.3-0.9
white sheep representing sheep manure
It is another “hot” manure. It is somewhat dry and very rich. Manure from sheep fed hay and grain will be more potent than manure from animals that live on pasture.
Pig Manure (0.5-0.3-0.5)
It is highly concentrated or “hot” manure. It is less rich in nitrogen than horse or bird crap, but stronger than many of the other animal manures. Pig manure is best used when mixed and composted with other manures and/or large quantities of vegetable matter.
Rabbit Manure (2.4-1.4-0.6)
It is the hottest of the animal manures. It may even be higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures. As an added bonus it also contains fairly high percentages of phosphates. Because of it’s high nitrogen content, rabbit crap is best used in small quantities lightly mixed into soil or composted before use.
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Cool thanks for that I’ve been thinking on how to make my own souls ir at least amendments for inert soil. I use the horse manure for my outside garden plants just flowers and food been scared to use on weed. I don’t have the room to experiment or lose medicine and it’s already 92° today so outside isn’t ideal until October or so. I figured between my mushroom compost from spent blocks plus horse manure that has been washed through then sundried then cooked in a bucket in the sun. I guess for soil or soil amendments I can experiment and once it’s done do a slurry to test pH to see where I stand:thinking:. Now you got the old insomnia machine kicking so gotta do some research. I hate the way my brain works sometimes. Oh ya not blaming you for anything 
when I get ideas stuck in my head my brain will mill it over all night it’s exhausting sometimes.
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I have been making my own compost, but it is taking up a lot of space, and going slower than I would like. So new plan. I am buying a bag of compost from the hardware store and then using organic amendments to turn it into super rich top dressing. I am going to add blood and bone, kelp, alfalfa, guano, etc.
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Worm castings are some of the best amendments you can add. If you can’t make your own there are some good sources out there. Coast of Maine has some decent bagged offerings, and if you want the Rolls Royce check out fortified ones from Organic Solutions.
Another cool casting source is Millipoo which I need to reorder this year. I usually see a few millipedes and tiny centipedes running around a month after application.
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So you add blood and bone meal in compost do you give extra bone or blood meal doing growing? Worm castings mixed with hpoo and spent mushroom blocks would be loaded with goodies I’d think.
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Yes, for sativas I think you are. Horse poo is notoriously low in calcium and is low in Nitrogen, too. The lowest calcium of the major farm animals, cow, horse, pig, chicken. I still use lots of it because it also has the highest concentration of air in it. It’s airy poo, not dense poo. Great stuff! Breaks up heavy soil like no other manure.
Chicken poo( must be aged) has good Nitrogen, and good calcium, along with Phosphorus and Potassium. It’s a pretty balanced food. Great for topdressing and in that capacity outdoes earthworm castings, which should be in any good organic mix too.
@US3RNAM3 nice post, well timed.
I’ll echo what you said about paying no attention to nutrient numbers compared to chemical fert numbers. It’s like comparing an Orange to a vitamin C tablet. The vitamin C in the orange is ten times more available to your body than a pill, Which is why you often see pills with a 1000% of your daily need. They have to put that much in there to get your body the 100% it needs. Don’t quote me on those comparisons… 10 to 1 is what I remember but it’s old data.
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I’m going to have to disagree. Rabbit and Alpaca poop need no composting, and it’s nearly impossible to use too much. I put alpaca poo in my mix by the burlap sack, and have topdressed so thick with it before that I couldn’t see my soil underneath. Rabbit poo is similar in that regard. These turds take forever to break down, which is why you can use so much. I still find whole alpaca poo pellets in my mix from 2 years ago. Have friends that use rabbit poo the same way.
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Sounds like a nice combination. Blood and bone meal are great, but need to be “cooked”/,composted before using or if you wish, used as food spikes before roots are present. Bone Meal is the gift that keeps on giving, working for 4 years. Trouble is, it’s not immediately available. It’s something to add if you recycle your soil. Steamed Bone Meal is a fast release type, so you have to go light with it if you use it. I Have some, but only for emergencies. I think a better option is fishbone meal. 3-18-0…major phosphorus in there.
@TexasTea millipede poo? Interesting. Must be expensive stuff? I’ve often wondered about slug/ snail poo. I have an unbelievable amount of snails here. I usually slightly lose my mind and start using them as food spikes by mid season. Last year we had an understanding, and I didn’t have to kill any.
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Yeah, this is some good shit, hehe…fungal dominated castings…great for a top dress.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/763776133/organic-millipede-castings-natural-soil?ref=cart
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In Colorado, we have a fertilizer called richlawn organic 100. It’s just dried poultry manure and is 5-3-2. A 40lb bag is less than $12. 
add a potassium source and with our calcerous soil, you’re pretty much done.
We also compost food waste, but that produces a surprisingly little amount over a year. Also mice love to nest in the bin 
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