8x4 LED Grow Tent Ventilation Question

Growroom Design
#1

Can someone please give me some advice on the grow tent I am setting up?

  • VIVOSUN 96x48x80" tent
  • 2 BESTVA SAMSUM Series 2000W COB LED Grow Lights
  • AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 inline duct fan (with humidity and temp controller)
  • VIVOSUN carbon filter

My main question is with the air flow… I already purchased the AC Infinity T6 vent fan, but I can also link up another AC Infinity S6. My plan is to hang the T6 fan inside the tent with the carbon filter and vent out of the top right. I am wanting to set up the S6 fan on the outside of the tent bringing fresh air in the bottom left. Since the S6 can hook into the T6 environment controller, will this be okay to have the S6 blowing in as an intake and the T6 venting out the filtered air? I like the idea of having the fans linked up to one controller for temp and humidity, but just making sure this setup will work for the idea I have in mind.

The other option would be to have a passive intake using the bottom vents, but I would really prefer to have everything sealed off during flowering to prevent as many light leaks as possible.

Thank you

5 Likes
#2

IMO it’s better to run an exhaust with passive intakes. When you run an intake fan you tend to have the fans fighting each other. Either one pulling or pushing the other causing decreased lifespan.

6 Likes
#3

I am specifically asking about the Cloudline T6 and S6 which link together through a temp/humidty controlling unit. The fans would not be fighting eachother if running on the same controller, right? The ducting for each fan would be independent.

#4

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3 Likes
#5

You should save your money for a aircon unit, and have passive intake. If the air is cooler coming in you wont need to move it in and out so fast.

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#6

I don’t think the T6 is going to be strong enough with a filter for a 4x8.

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#7

The Cloudline T6 has a CFM of 402… a 96 x 48 x 80 grow tent has a total of 213.3 cubic feet. I am not understanding why you would say it’s not strong enough with a carbon filter.

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#8

The CFM rating on the fan is without anything attached to it. The filter reduces the amount of air the fan can move.

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#9

I completely understand the reduction of the CFM rating with carbon filters, long ducting, etc but the CFM rating is nearly double of the cubic feet.

1 Like
#10

As Shadey said, the CFM reduces as you add resistance to the ventilation path. These fans are quiet, but don’t quite have the static pressure of the bigger, louder AC fans.

When I was specing out fans for my 4x6 room with 1200 watts of LED the T6 would barely cut it. I decided to go with the T8 instead.

You might find this link helpful.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=112862

3 Likes
#11

saying that a lot of the old go to for air metrics was more about cooling, that what a plant actually needs circulation wise.

But will say an extra $50 for a fan “t8” that has more capability isn’t that much, and i also backup the passive intake comments

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#12

What do you guys recommend during flower for passive intake? The VIVOSUN has the coverable mesh screens on the back and sides, but how do you prevent light leaks other than making sure the room is completely dark during lights off? Is a small box fan or something on the floor by the side mesh vent enough along with an oscillating fan on a pole or something?

1 Like
#13

Plants dont need replacement air after lights out, they just need it moved around in the tent to keep the RH from creating powdery mildew.

I have a humidity and heat controller, connected to my exhaust fan, it comes on at 78F goes off at 75F and will come on at 60% humidity and off 55%. If either maximum is not reached it doesn’t come on at all.

I have 2 x 6 inch 45 degree pieces of duct with furnace filter over the ends on the outside of the tent, it comes through the bottom side holes, and the outside end is 1 inch off the floor. That helps stop light getting in via the ducting.

Edit. Typically your heat sensor works with lights on and the RH sensor after lights out, unless I have watered the plants heavily and then the RH controller will come on during lights on as well.

2 Likes
#14

I think the @Shadey said it best. What ever you are pulling out will be replaced passively it your intake. It is basic physics. If you push more in than you can exhaust you will create positive preasure and still run into heat and humidity problems.

1 Like
#15

When I moved my tent, I connected the extraction fan up the wrong way, the tent blew up so quickly, I couldn’t turn it off quick enough, to stop it blowing all the tape off, holding the ducting to the fan :persevere:
The seems along the tent edges and zipper all stretched apart :sob:

4 Likes
#16

haha Im pissing my pants laughing…fk the other day before lights on i went in the room and was fking around with shit next thing you know i focus on the lights and start fkning around with the wiring…then it HIT ME…the fkn lights are set to come on ANY second and here I am playing with them…lesson learned!

I could just see the tent…fkn couldnt shut it off quick enough…Im pissing myself over here! Im picturing that in my mind…POP!

1 Like
#17

I have a 8x4 tent as well however I have a 8in hyperfan and my 4.5.x4.5 veg tent has the t6…As I would rather the fan run less like with the hyperfan and turn it down more and it will increase the lifespan too by not running full tilt all the damn time…I don’t even have a actual intake fan for it just leave a few vents on the bottom open and I’m running 1600watts true power of hlg LEDs too…And it runs wonderfully like that too as I’m all for efficiency so dc or usb power whenever I can that’s for damn sure

3 Likes