If you are watering with only water then you have to control pH, but otherwise it is not really needed, nutes are acidic in nature and will reduce your pH down …
EDIT, this is only because i am using the GO Box from GO, and they specifically say not to control pH.
And is it definitely too much nitrogen ? I’ve got yellowing on the shoots and the brown tips of the leaves start on all …
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.Yes it is over dose of nutrients. Brown leaf tips is symptom called tip-burn and it is burned from the nutrient overdose.
This is english forum category. Please post in English (at least with help of google translate).
Yes sir will do, totally forgot. Google translate is fun!
I see both sides - ph is WAY less of an issue in organic soil, but if you’re on city tap water you should check the ph of it. A local friend on city water had problems and discovered the city water is pH of 7.5 or higher, now he adds a bit of pH down to his water.
some water dept.'s raise the pH way up so the 100-year old pipes don’t corrode, that’s what went wrong in Flint
The ph of towns water is the last thing he should worry about. Flouride, chlorine, chloramine etc. Should be a bigger worry.
I used to attach a PUR charcoal filter to the tap to take out the nasty stuff. It takes out everything but fluoride. hopefully the fluoride is just another mineral in the soil and the plants don’t take it up.
Now my well water’s pH is perfect at 6.2 but it has excess iron that must be filtered out. Huge pain in the ass for me!
Oh jesus that does sound like a pain. I pay 2 bucks for a 5gal jug of spring water. Its about 30 a month for it. But its cheaper then an ro filters waste water thatd id still have to pay for
Yep, RO filter increased my water bill by about 30%. Then again, growing increase my electric bill by… 150%. There’s a seat waiting for me in environmentalist hell.
But as I’ve ranted before, metro Boston water is adjusted to pH 9.0+… like Mr. Muleskinner said, they don’t want another Flint situation. Oh, someday I’ll be back in the land of artesian well water, and the soil in my yard won’t be filled with rusted cans and broken glass.
I don’t feel that bad about the lights, most of the year it’s just electric heat for the house.
Mass. water is horrible, fluoride, plus the MWRTA adds several chemicals to “polish” the taste
lol elements are the building blocks of life, @lotus710 there is no possible way of growing “without chems” but i will reiterate i don’t think there is a right or wrong way or better way, everyone should do what works best for them
This is true. Chemicals are everything around us. I just mean deadly chemicals that if you tried eating or drinking youll die or have to head to the emergencyXD
There is easily a better way. Maybe not growing the plant. But i mean better for the earth and your health:)
I’ve been also used and taught (even by biologist) to adjust pH in soil… 
So I had to check the Biobizz page now
Do you need to adjust the pH of Biobizz nutrients after you mix them up?
No. With Biobizz you are feeding the soil and specifically the microbes in the soil. So you can let those microbes and the roots of your plants adjust the pH in the root zone – you don’t need to change the pH of the nutrient solution before you water it in. If you must adjust the pH, don’t worry, it won’t necessarily help your garden, but it will not hurt your plants.
How can I influence the pH value?
If the pH of the water you’re using is much higher than the standard pH value of 7.0-7.3, you could try using apple vinegar or citric acid to reduce its acidity – aim for a value between 6.8 and 7.2. Once it’s nearer the correct level, add the Biobizz nutrient.
How do you balance the pH/EC of Biobizz soil/fertilizer?
When using Biobizz soils, you don’t need to measure the EC and pH value like you would when using a mineral medium. Biobizz products only contain natural organic elements, giving them a very low Electrical Conductivity (EC) value. And while the organic elements can’t be measured, they do have a self-regulating system, which helps maintain the pH values at the correct level.
So I now know why we can’t agree on one answer 
…
You both guys are right…
Of course I know that soil has its natural properties and can balance itself… (that is why we recommend it to beginners without any need for EC or pH meter)
The problem is that here tap water can have easily pH 8, so majority of growers use some kind of adjuster to turn it little bit down into range that BioBizz is recommending.
I also don’t think that few drops of acid extremely diluted to water can damage life in soil…
A solution with Salomonic Wisdom!
can you use lemon juice to drop the pH on the water? I see my friend using some GH product with 3 different chemicals, seems like simple lemon juice would be better
A better choice for pH down is citric acid. I get it at my local brew store. It’s the same acid the roots will exude to lower pH and is totally natural and food grade. I make a stock solution of 2.5 grams to 250ml. The stock solution would drop pH from 8 to 6 with about 15-20ml per gallon.
I’ve been told that pH is not that stable using vinegar or lemon juice…
I have read the same thing, they lower or increase pH but not for long, they dissipate easily and you’ll get more problems in the end.
I believe citric acid and lemon juice are the exact same thing - citric acid is just de-hydrated lemon juice. When I bought a bottle of Earth Juice organic pH down it was simply yellow crystals and the label said “citric acid”.
If you’re just treating the water it doesn’t have to be “stable” right? You just lower the pH of the water in the jug and go from there.
