Can Ph drift nightly cause lockout?

So I’m getting Ph drift at the most inopportune time during the dark period. I can keep the Ph within range when the lights are on, but say 6hrs later in the middle of darkness it’s way up to 6.6 from 6.2-6.3.and it’s been down to 6.0. I have a continuous monitor outside the tent so I can see it at all times. I don’t know what you do about a ph that shoots up when you can’t correct it while the lights are out. I suspect I am noticing a lockout of magnesium and calcium since this is happening overnight and getting out of range every time the lights are about to go on. Is there anything to stabilize ph from constant drift ? Is this repeatedly drifting causing the nutrients to lock out ? How long does it take for lockout once ph is out of range of nutrient availability ? I originally posted in my diary thinking it’s some burn, now I think it’s lock out being near the top and not down lower. I’m about 95% organic solution and it’s hard to theoretically “burn” as opposed to chemicals I thought. I may have misjudged Blue Planets concentration, but I remember FF being weak and using high ppm’s 1400-1600 during flowering. I’ve generally been under the impression organic isn’t as concentrated as chemical per gallon of water. So I’m thinking how the hell is the symptom nute burn rather than ph drift over a number of days ?

I started w about 1300 2 weeks ago and kept topping it off to about 1100. I’ve taken that 1100 to 800 w 75% of the same regiment. Thoughts, suggestions. Thanks

The Colombian Gold is affected worse than Chocolate Haze is

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Looks more like to high tds fert burn the ph will drift with room temps water temps and tds

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IF it is too high tds, then the concentrate is much stronger than I realized. I used organic in hydro 20 years ago, but I had to add more than chemicals. At least I know I don’t have to double up like in the past. Looks like even when times change and improve can be problematic going by the past nutrient concentrations.

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Looking at this chart, it looks like a calcium deficiency.

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Agree with Calcium, but also see Potassium:

and those fried leaves with burnt tips make me guess about a nutrient burn or lockout. Don’t think the pH will affect, as it is not out of range in any case and being in the correct margins going up and down makes it easier to the plant to have all nutrients available.

Do you add just tap water? Are you giving more amendments? My guess is soil could be too hot, that’s why I don’t run organics, you never know what’s in it … :sunglasses:

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What is the readings on you’re tap water? I think you are on the right path by lowering the feed to see if it is indeed a toxicity. Personally I think it may be a lock out. Did you gradually increase and just start noticing the issue?

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@George

So here is Blue Planet’s feed schedule. At first glance, The millimeter suggested per gallon indicates it’s not strong. At 10 per gall for bloom, at 12 gall res thats 120 ml. If we were talking about chemicals, I would say that amount would be very toxic, but it’s organic Formulated for Hydro applications. When we look at the bloom schedule, Week 6, 7 and 8 are roughly about the same. I figured I would start with that week 6, and
to top it for the last 2 1/2 weeks. Conserve on the nutrients this way and just keep topping it off w only ph adjusted water. Everything seemed fine, then ph started to swing, Which became a battle to stabilize. I started to notice a little bit of mag going to the 4th week report, But that accelerated quite fast in between Thursday of last week and Sunday. On Sunday I decided to dump and reduce by 75%, and go to 800 ppm from the 1400-1200. It’s evident though the concentration is much stronger than the table suggest to use. The company should label it organic concentrate than nutrients that way one can’t be confused if full strength should be used. Oh yeah I also get what you’re saying about organics, But you can’t beat the flavor of organics. Hydro organics isn’t easy to pull off, but so rewarding for flavor and cleaner burn to smoke.

IF we look at the bottle, it’s even higher at 12-16ml, which would be 192ml at full strength.

This was what I converted the chart to my res:

FP grow 96ml
FP micro 84 ml
FP bloom 120ml
Vita blue 72ml
Easy weed 12 scoops
Early bloomer 48ml
Liquid blue 12ml
Cal-mag pro 24 scoops
Microbe 60 ml
Kangaroots 30ml

@OGSince03 tap is 200. I do think the pH swinging wildly caused the cal-mag to lockout. When I started the veg on this crop, a Ph lower than 6.2 was locking it out. It’s why I made a post about Cal mag antagonism and lower recommend Ph cited as misinformation. Ph gives me a headache. I guess best solution is to just dump it when you can’t keep it adjusted in range

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Really Dumb question how many times do you water on your schedule?Are you watering by a schedule or are you picking the pot up and seeing if it’s light?I was having problems like this with feed and nutes and like 80 %of my problems were because I was watering too much.I went to picking the pot up and getting the weight right when it was light right before they wanted to droop and I fixed my spotty crumbly yellow crunchy leaf problem.I’ve been monitoring my water more closely and minding my nutes a little more.Might not have anything to do with your problem but I had to share to try and help out .I’m sure it isn’t something they won’t bounce back from.Yours look great still they will pop back.

Hey @CapnCannabis, I get what you mean about overwatering. When increasing water uptake happens it can feel like you need to water more often, especially by pick up the pot method but you can be fooled by weight. I use both pick up and moisture meter so I know for sure it’s dry and a slight wilt. However this isn’t pots, this post pertains to DWC/drip hydro. It’s gets feed from the top every 6 hrs for 10 mins while the roots sit in solution. Possibility even 4 top feeds is too much for cooler weather now…

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I always put less nutrients that what is stated in charts, the more you use, the more they sell frech|nullxnull. I would lower them and see how the plant reacts, this sudoku may give you some help … beer3|nullxnull

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Get rid of the organic ferts gh three part with calmag ph adj and proper environments and it has to be consistent with out fail or else your yields will be shit if at all

High pH + calcium block out potassium and boron.

It’s funny all the “hydro” and “organic” weed looks the same in 2022. Guess that’s what the internet has done. Everyone’s focused on appearance, but can’t tell what they are looking at?

My question is, does anyone actually attempt to correct their deficiency after identifying it? Or are they simply happy to have an explanation in their holster?