DIY Home repairs

[Nitt]

I’ve been looking at some multimeters, clamp meter variety, since doing some testing on leds. I remembered that I had one, but it’s pretty poor.

I want one that does DC current, and particularly low end amperage (like a range that I’d be working with for electronics - led lighting etc.) I already do have a Brymen 235. I kinda wanted a clamp meter for convenience of measuring amperage (both ac and dc), but only if it’s reasonably accurate, particularly at lower levels. Maybe this isn’t a good use case, especially if looking for a “budget” device. Please let me know if you think it’s not a good choice (a clamp meter) for low power DC stuff.

Which of these look to be the best, as far as accuracy/precision.

Kaiweets HT206D: Page 24, +/- 2.5%+5

Kaiweets HT208D: Page 28, +/- 2.5%+8

UNI-T 210 Series (UT210E or UT210D): +/- 2%+3

It appears to me that the uni-t 210 is more accurate, is that correct? I don’t quite understand the “+X” after the +/- spec…

Also, the UNI-T says “Display count : 2000”. I think the “counts” on the Kaiweets models are 6000 counts. I don’t recall what this means either, I didn’t think it was a “display” spec (like resolution, how many digits will be shown) but a quick search explains something to that effect.
I know I’ve heard something like you want at least 6000 counts or something. I duno if the 2000 counts of the UNI-T is a deal breaker pretty “undesirable”.
Edit: I think I somewhat get the counts/digits thing now. Just now sure how to know what is suitable for what application.

Completely different recommendations are welcome.

Thanks.

PS: I tried to have a look at this, and even tried to download the file, and it’s almost too much information to go through. The dl file didn’t work well (the brand names were missing). Someone else might find this useful though…?

Multimeter spreadsheet (80 manufacturers and over 400 meters listed) - Page 1

I paid around $150 cad for my Brymen at the time, and I’m pretty sure that was a good deal (looking at the current price on amazon.ca). I don’t want to go over that on a second meter, I’d prefer to stay at or under $100, but I’d consider it if it was a very good deal.

[Nitt]

Some pics of the successful bathroom sink install from a couple weeks ago(?). I have lots of’em, hope this isn’t too many. If anyone has questions though, feel free.

Tools (Left to write);

Soft plastic scraper, hard plastic scraper, need nose vice grips, x-in-1 screwdriver, lineman’s pliers (aka “hammer” in this case, sparkys know), adjustable wrench, another adjustable wrench, two long 3/8 socket extensions, 5/8" wrench, 7/8" wrench, basin wrench, diy wing nut wrench (1.5" ABS, I think. I think 1.25" was suggested).
(Not shown: scotch bright sponge, soap/cleaner, Iso alcohol - all along with scrapers to clean old caulk, crud, gasket, etc.)
Note: The Moen basin wrench was junk, a terrible design. I returned it and had to use standard open end wrenches.

Couple notes:
-After reading the details on plumber’s putty (don’t use on plastic, and some say ABS too) I went with K&B 100% silicone caulk.
-Don’t use something too abrasive on the sink deck to remove crud.
-I used the “hammer” and long extensions to tap/spin off the old wing nut (the one that wasn’t broken).
-I covered the open straight stop/valves with a bag to stop junk from falling in.
-If you want to get teflon tape onto threads in a tight space, wrap some of it onto a thinner object (eg: pen, pencil) and then use that object to wrap the tape onto the thread in the tight area (credit “got2learn”, years ago, burned into memory).
-Start all threading by hands. Also, I was having trouble getting new supply hose onto old valve thread (left the old teflon tape on there). Gave them a spray with isopropyl, that fixed it.
-The diy wing nut “wrench” was a life saver. Had that created before I even posted here. Haha.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

[Coda]

Nice job, Nitt!

I’ll bet you saved a small fortune and feel good about doing it yourself

[thainer]

and you did not really need help doing it just needed someone to hold the flashlight. job well done nice tight clean work.

[Dirt_Wizard]

@Nitt

PS: I tried to have a look at this, and even tried to download the file, and it’s almost too much information to go through. The dl file didn’t work well (the brand names were missing). Someone else might find this useful though…?

I’ve been looking for a DMM myself for some upcoming projects and this page is really useful for comparison:

https://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMReviews.html

He has good things to say about another UNI-T meter:

https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMUNI-T%20UT139C%20UK.html

The one I’m considering is this Klein which seems popular with tradespeople on forums as a Fluke 117 alternative that’s cheaper and built more ruggedly, along with that good good Klein warranty:

Klein Tools MM720 Digital Multimeter, TRMS Auto-Ranging, 1000V, Temp, Low...

Klein makes a whole range of clamp meters as well, but I don’t think I need that specifically, here’s a good comparison chart of their models tho:

[Nitt]

Thanks for that other comparison list. What’s your budget? And what’s the use? “Mains” voltage, or “electronics” and smaller stuff?
I have the Brymen BM235 as my main DMM, the EEVBlog version. I really like it. I just want a second meter - probably a clamp style. The Brymen are re-branded by several other names (greenlee being one of them), which gets confusing.
That’s another good forum for info (eevblog), I haven’t joined yet - so many forums already. And it’s quite technical.

[Dirt_Wizard]

@Nitt

Thanks for that other comparison list. What’s your budget? And what’s the use? “Mains” voltage, or “electronics” and smaller stuff?

You’re welcome! I’m looking to spend under a hundred and will be using it mostly for “electronics” but also likely for ebike or electric motorcycle use, and possibly for off-grid “mains” from a generator, solar, and a prismatic LiFePo4 battery bank as well.

EDIT: on the subject of batteries, there’s an excellent sale on them right now from one of the most respected battery vendors I know of for smaller formats, noticed these while picking up some 18650 and 21700 batteries for my headlamps and flashlights. I might just get one or two of those small ones for a portable power station project, that’s good pricing on cutting edge batteries:

LifePO4 Prismatic Cells

[mota]

Maybe not quite DIY, but very cool nonetheless.

Homes into giant batteries: MIT plans energy cement to power your house

[Bert]

If viable, that would be amazing!

[Dope_Heffalump]

Knipex for the win.
My Knipex water pump pliers are the most versatile tool in my tool bags.

[Pleiochasium]

Knipex are so nice. Especially the cobras and pliers wrench. Worth every penny.

[Nitt]

This is one example of why I’ve been “diy’ing” as many things in my life as possible. It’s not isolated to any industry/profession or service, either.

When PEX goes horribly wrong

Some mechanics will torque (impact) your lugs on so tight it’ll warp your rotors. (And then you’ll be back, and you’ll pay for new ones, or for “re-surfacing” - or whatever they say the “fix” is. The fix is don’t go there anymore, or do it yourself.)
I might work slow(er), but I’ll do the job properly. This stuff pisses me off, because it’s easy to take advantage of people who just don’t know any better (in a particular area of knowledge), and that’s all of us. We can’t know everything.

Edit: Yea, I really like Knipex tools. The “Pliers Wrench” is so great, the force they apply, and how it’s “parallel”, and doesn’t mar the flats/material, and the way they adjust.

[Nitt]

I replaced a ceiling fan light combo the other day. First time doing that, surprisingly.

Well, it was a test, before doing the one in the kitchen that needs replacing too. Here’s the thing, the range hood fan in the kitchen is terrible. It’s blows as much air down onto the stove as it does draw air up into it. Also, it’s so loud that people don’t want to even use it.

Now, I did check that it’s actually connected to a ducting system. It goes into the cupboards above it, then disappears into the…ceiling/wall. And I can confirm that the exhaust vent outside is indeed connected to it (the vent flaps open when it’s turned on…did a smell, and a smoke test with a couple things). But I wonder, too, if whoever installed it nad to…squash the flex or aluminum ducting in certain areas of the wall or ceiling to get it to fit, and if maybe that causes some back pressure that in turn causes some air being pushed back down onto the stove or something…? It’s also very possibly it’s just old and shitty, and might not even be the right fan blade assembly on it.
Half-assery.

Anyways, I say all that to ask if I should prioritize replacing the range hood instead of the ceiling fan light. Everything in the kitchen (the ceiling fan, the tops of the cupboards - which don’t go all the way to the ceiling, etc) are/get covered with a film of oil and dust. Why buy and replace the ceiling fan with a new one to spread the oil and dust everywhere more efficiently?

I duno. Advice appreciated.

[sfzombie13]

you may be able to get a camera down the vent to see if it’s blocked, not sure how much it would cost to get someone out to do it, but it would be a neat toy to buy also. we just bought a house and need to clean the vents and run a camera down the drains to see if one is blocked.

[Nitt]

That’s a very good idea. I’ve wanted an excuse for a boroscope type camera/tool for a while now.

[Pleiochasium]

My first thought was the vent cover that generally needs to be removed from one part of the range and reinstalled for external exhaust. But if the flow is strong enough to open the exterior flaps and you don’t feel any internal exhaust, I’d guess weak old fan and too much resistance in the duct. Camera would definitely come in handy.

[mota]

@Nitt

I replaced a ceiling fan light combo the other day.

@Nitt

Anyways, I say all that to ask if I should prioritize replacing the range hood instead of the ceiling fan light.

I don’t understand. Different fan/light combo, this one in the kitchen?

About the range hood exhaust fan, a typical ducted range hood vent situation looks like this. The range hood fan connects to the lowest piece of duct behind the piece of plywood facing us. Subsequent pieces of duct go up through the top of the cabinet and into the space between the cabinet and ceiling. That’s a soffit. From there, depending one the situation, there may be a bend or two, or continue the duct may continue on straight to a roof vent.

My guess is if it’s a one story building, you can simply get into the attic space and see. If it’s a multistory building, that becomes far more problematic.

You’d have no problem replacing a range hood.

Or perhaps I’m reading the question incorrectly…

[Nitt]

The other day, I replaced a ceiling fan with light whose motor had died long ago. Replaced it with one like this:

There’s another ceiling fan with light, in the kitchen, which is also dead. A relative wants it replaced. However, they want it replaced thinking that ‘a ceiling fan is what you use in a kitchen to deal with the cooking environment’ (heat, steam, … oil vapor, etc. from cooking). But in reality, I don’t think that is correct. I think that’s what a range hood/fan is actually made for.
There is a range hood over the stove, but it sucks (figuratively, not literally - unfortunately). And my thinking is that I should prioritize replacing the range hood/fan, instead of replacing the ceiling fan.

I think with a re-read of the original post, it might make better sense now? Haha.

It’s a multi-level home. The existing range hood is already there, and it’s ducted to outside. It just does a poor job at what it’s supposed to do, and it’s also so loud nobody wants to use it.
I want to replace this range hood. Just want some advice or tips on things to know or look for when shopping for a replacement range hood. Sizing, cfm, types of filters (re-usable? carbon? pre-filter?), wiring (what to expect), etc. - whatever somebody might have to offer advice-wise.

---

Extra info that might just be confusing, and won’t impact the replacement of just the range hood itself (which is all I’d be doing. not ripping open wall/ceiling to see what the ducting looks like):

There’s a bit of a… “bulkhead” coming out of the wall (not the ceiling). The range hood fan goes up into the cupboard above it. In the cupboard there is an adapter/transition (square to round). Off the 4" round, there is some semi-rigid aluminum ducting that goes straight up (exits the cupboard) and into that “bulkhead” (I’m sure there’s a word for this). But the bulkhead doesn’t actually extend up to the ceiling, so I don’t know how the ducting actually reaches the ceiling space above. And it can’t really travel through the wall directly in the direction to where it exhausts outside (because that section of wall is too thin/narrow - less than 4". Which makes me wonder if it take a weird bend/turn into the space/wall directly behind that “bulkhead” and into the ceiling and across, OR if it was somehow forced into the narrow wall and directly out to the exhaust vent. Either of which would make me think someone might have… squashed it to make it fit).

Here’s what the current range hood looks like:

Broan RL6100F-C 30" White Range Hood Fan

[Hashpants]

Just get under and take of the filters light covers etc. The wiring is in a metal box, you will have to flip the breaker feeding it. Disconnect the wiring (3) and check if there is a screw ring connector to take the ring off. Check and Disconnect the ducting flange leading to the exhaust, it’s usually 1/4 hex screws . Then the whole thing is held by two huge head screws to take down. Most new replacements are whisper quiet.

[Pleiochasium]

Yeah, these installs are fairly straightforward in theory. A couple screws hold them up. Wiring is very straight forward. Out of the box, it will likely be set up to exhaust into the house, and you will likely have to swap a piece of sheet metal to redirect the flow.

The trickiest part I think will be the ducting. You’ll need it to exit the hood in the approximately correct location, and the fittings/ducts can be a bit of a pain to connect in my experience (elbows being a little too short or long to get it all in the right place, that sort of thing). It’s also not always clear which hood/duct fittings come with the hood (e.g. 6" round or rectangular, etc)

That said, sounds like you suspect a possible duct restriction problem to be buried in the ceiling, which is a whole nother issue. Can you just cut a new hole in the wall and vent it straight out, instead of up into the ceiling?