@Pleiochasium The oven/stove is not on an exterior wall. So I don’t think it can just be vented straight out. I think that’s what you mean.
I’m just going to have to live with whatever the ducting situation is for now.
So, I guess I just measure the width, and depth maybe, and then find a suitable replacement that matches those specs and will physically fit. And also try and match the exhaust connection sizing and shape - or come up with the right transistion/adapters to deal with whatever the new one will have.
I’ll look more into it in the coming days, and watch some videos too, to learn more about it and get a better idea of parts and assembly/installation.
one thing you can do is find out where the holes are on the one in the picture and then look for the ones on your replacement to match them up. the bulkhead you’re referring to are probably cabinet blocks. they do just what they say, blocks to hold cabinets up. i forgot when they started putting them in homes regularly but i found them in a 1930s home recently. you can take the old one down and look at how it’s hooked up and may be able to get a camera up there to take a picture if you don’t get a bore scope. then you can put it back up until the new one arrives. more work but it’s worth it to make the replacement go smoothly.
@Nitt 2 things come to mind here cfm how much air is the fan capable of moving so many cfm’s per square feet of kitchen next the distance you are trying to move the air for ex one water hose pressure compared to say 4 hooked together yeh water still comes out BUT in my opinion the light is more important right now it has some kind of fault in it
The ceiling fan’s light works, just the fan is dead. There’s nothing wrong with the electrical/wiring going to the ceiling fan. The range hood fan and light both work as well, if that’s what you mean.
It’s build out from the wall, just above the top of the cupboards, then it stops just short of the ceiling. But the “bulkhead”, as I’m referring to it, is finished just like the wall is - meaning it’s drywalled, painted, and has a strip of god awful looking design “wall paper” on it. So it’s unlikely I’m going to mess with that. We want to sell this house anyways.
Might take a picture or two later. Lots of garden work to do today and the next few days.
Does your current range hood look exactly like that, and here I’m asking about the three sets of horizontal holes on the upper front. That hood is “convertible,” which is to say it does not require exterior venting. Those holes are used when there is no exhaust duct work. Yeah, crazy but true. If you look at the picture of my range hood, above, you’ll note it is not convertible. New, convertibles come with a small piece of rectangular plastic to block the holes and force (almost) all of the exhaust into the duct. If the holes are unblocked, that could be at least part of the problem.
About installation of the hood itself, with the exception of very expensive and wide hoods, all off the shelf range hoods are the same size and are held up by four screws that screw into the cabinet bottom above. The holes always align, no matter the hood band. I didn’t use to bother changing the four screws out. I’d unscrew them just enough to free the hood.
Correct times two, especially ducted range hoods. If the issue is getting rid of kitchen odors, etc, you want to replace the range hood, not the ceiling fan.
Are you sure it’s four inch? That seems awfully small for a range hood exhaust fan. At least here in CA, I don’t think I’ve ever seen duct for them smaller than six inches, and eight is more common. Ours is eight inches. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen soft flex used in this application.
As I recall, there are also 30" range hoods (the standard size) that have dual lights and fans. Of course, they are more expensive and the ducting includes a Y to bring the ducts together, but that could be another option.
Also, as @Hashpants points out, modern fans are much quieter than older models. Exactly how quiet is marked on the exterior of the range hood’s box in sonnes.
I’ve never seen a new range hood that comes with any duct.
I agree. It’s always the most challenging aspect. Once you have the old hood off, you need to be careful that any duct that is hanging is doing so securely. Ditto as you’re installing any new duct. You don’t want any of it to fall onto the range. The duct is normally over the back of the range. On modern ranges, it’s the part with most of the controls. That housing is basically tin foil and very easy to dent/damage. Having a second set of hands to simply hold things in place can be very helpful.
Definitely critical for your situation.
Also, as @thainer correctly points out, just as with water, there is friction loss when moving air. The longer the distance and the smaller the diameter of the duct, the greater the loss. If the final vent is far away, you definitely want more umph from the fan(s). You can imagine how flexible duct would impact that. It would also be more likely to trap grease in its folds than “straight” duct.
Yes, I didn’t mean the duct itself, but the adapter. Last one I installed either came with or was compatible with a 6" round or some rectangular adapter (I think more like 10"x something, but I forget). Unfortunately the existing exhaust vent leaving the wall was 4". Took me much longer than I anticipated to find the right combination of 6" to 4" adapter and intermediary ducting to reach the wall exhaust port.
Right. I can’t remember, aren’t there knockouts above the fan that determine whether it’s going to be a round or rectangular hole for the first piece of duct? It’s been at least a decade since I replaced a hood. 10" sounds about right for the rectangular hole.
Yeah, changing size mid duct is always a PITA.
I don’t recall ever seeing that. Was any of it flex? For dryers, hot water heaters or bathroom exhaust fans, absolutely, and often, maybe even generally, using flex, but never for range hoods. Of course, it’s been at least a decade since I replaced a range hood, so maybe I’m misremembering. That’s a distinct possibility.
This definitely has a 4" vent through the exterior wall. And 6" I think coming from the new hood.
It was a custom house we bought recently, built late 70s by the owner. The hood was mounted under a cabinet. For some reason, I didn’t even think of looking in the cabinet before buying the replacement hood, just bought what seemed like the best one for the money and figured I’d make it work. Imagine my surprise when I opened the cabinet and there was nothing there. They installed a vent on the exterior of the house, through the wall, and it was completely drywalled over. The existing hood just vented back into the room.
I was expecting a quick swap, but had to cut holes in the bottom of the cabinet, rear of the cabinet, drywall, and fit the ductwork with the reducer and bends.
I’ve worked on (non-professional) owner built “custom” houses. They can be interesting.
That’s why those three sets of holes are on the front of that Broan hood above. I really don’t understand the idea.
The houses I grew up in didn’t have range hoods or cabinets directly above the stove. Instead, there was a ceiling exhaust fan, usually above the stove but sometimes not, operated by a wall switch. They were more effective at getting rid of odors than grease in the air.
Something I didn’t mention before about friction loss is that bends are problematic, the sharper the more of a problem. Bends create eddies that then have a blocking effect on “newer” air coming from the fan. If straight runs are not possible, even 45s are better than 90s, but that may not always be possible.
The model of range hood I posted a link to pictures of is the exact model I have. I just searched for the model number and posted a link to the site that had pictures of it.
like the duplex we live in. built in the '70s, maybe '60s, and the breaker box doesn’t even have a master shut off on it. did a nice job on the attic access but it’s open to both sides of the duplex with no fire wall in between or attic access on the landlady’s side. and the galley kitchen (6ft wide x 12ft long) is so small i can’t wait to move to the new house.
I need to get a wall’s gyprock/drywall redone. The whole thing, floor to ceiling. It’s an exterior wall, about 10ft wide, 8 to 8.5ft high. I’m wondering how much work that might be (how much time and how much of a mess/what type of mess) that’ll be, with all the sanding/dust, I assume. Also how much that might cost, though I’ll have to just ask for some quotes I guess. I’d probably do the “demo” of taking down the current/old drywall, which I already did - to insulate the wall, but then I only put it back up half assed, planning to have it redone at some point. That point is almost here.
It’s in the grow room, obviously, so I’m cautious about it.
Does that include demo and rehanging the ceiling? What’s that you say? No it does not? Most excellent!
My second question is it an active grow room now, like as of when your project will begin? Again, please say, why no, it’s not. If it is, I’d say your biggest issue is going to be demo, not replacement. The demo will be dusty and dirty. Depending on what you want your final product to be, taping and mudding don’t have to be a problem.
My next question is, does the wall require a finished surface or can it be fire taped like a garage? Fire taping requires just one mud coat, two if you want to go crazy, with no sanding. Fire taped rooms, like garages, are often left unpainted. Painting an unsanded (or poorly sanded) surface will make the lack of sanding/sander’s holidays really pop, especially with a gloss paint! Also, if you ever plan to finish the wall surface, the paint will make the job much more difficult. That’s something you might want to consider.
I won’t address demo. You have an idea of what that takes and how long.
In theory it is definitely simple. If you’ve ever hung a ceiling by yourself, easy isn’t a word that comes directly to mind. HA! Simple isn’t really applicable in that situation either. Ask a man who knows!
A lot harder if you want a finish surface you’d be proud of. Three coats, full sand between coats, and an evenly feathered edge about eight inches from the center of your tape line. When doing a full room or a house, lid and walls, lid gets hung first, then walls. I suggest doing all of the vertical tape lines one day, come back the following day, very quick taping of the verts then mud the horizontals. Next day repeat, just verts, etc. for three coats worth. It makes intersections much easier to deal with, particularly for folks who don’t have much mudding experience. Again, however, it’s about the quality of the finish surface you want.
You’ll definitely want an inside corner tool to join the wall to the ceiling.
That’s right, and why I said I hope it’s not an active grow room and/or a fine finish surface isn’t required.
I agree for people who have more than a minimal amount of experience. Whether you use nylon mesh or old school paper tape (my preference, of course), it’s too easy to sand thru the mud and expose the tape. When that happens, that’s a problem if you want a nice finish surface.
The mudding part? 'Cause there’s no way I’m attempting to get the hanging of the drywall done myself. Nor whatever ordering/acquiring it entails. My back is absolutely fucked. I’m in constant, persistent pain, and maybe one more tweak away from being completely disabled. And canada health care is absolute fucking garbage.
Just the one wall, from the floor to the ceiling height. But not the actual ceiling.
It’s in use now. But I will be shuting it down for this repair.
Never heard of this. Umm, just like a regular interior room, like a living space (bedroom, living room, etc.) - whatever level of “finishing” that requires I guess. (I can probably paint by myself).
That’s impressive! Big congratulations! No sane person would undertake it alone.
While I did more than enough drywall to personally satisfy my needs for my lifetime, I was far from a pro. Because of that, when I needed a perfect surface, the trick I used was to run my hand over literally every square inch of mud after my final sand. Your hand will reveal flaws that your eye won’t see, no matter the light, until after the surface is painted. You know, when it’ll be a real pain to fix! HA!
If it is, I’d say your biggest issue is going to be demo, not replacement. The demo will be dusty and dirty. Depending on what you want your final product to be, taping and mudding don’t have to be a problem.