Lexel is the stuff levels above silicone. Polymer sealer works wet or dry. Dry is preferable when waterproofing. Yea dont pull it apart , just clean it well and seal the joint.
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We have had real good success using GE Silicone, you want the bath/kitchen mildew resistant. The problem with PL adhesive, is that over time, it gets brittle and doesn’t stick anymore.
2 of the recent Custom Shower doors I just did.
Both using GE silicone products with no issues.
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on all of those surrounds the edges are contoured some to get a neat but joint witch leaves the area between the back of surround and wall board wanting some glue all are going to be like that as no one wants the squeeze out hardest part is going to be cleaning up that old silicone caulk nothing sticks to silicone not even silicone the vertical joints and the hori ones i use painters tape strip down both sides of joint and cover it all ggreat gobs if you want. just stay inside the tape as for the flappy bit at the bottom can you open enough to get tip in
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The “flappy” bit, with the gap, is both sides (vertical edges) of the corner piece. Those edges are almost completely un"stuck" (flappy, haha).
Used tape last time. Think I’ve learned about since then, maybe improved method(s). Not using tape. Have profiling tool.
Watched a great caulking video, showed that it does…(?).
I’ll give it a go asap, gotta get some supplies.
Thank you.
Silicone
Option 1: Home Hardware. 10 year mold free.
Option 2: Home Hardware. 7 year mold free.
Some DAP options too.
So, guys… For re-adhering the edges of the corner shelf piece that are lifted, what should I use for that? Should I use adhesive --the proper PL700 adhesive? Or what? Should I use just the Silicone itself (doesn’t seem right)?
And yea, PL premium turns into brittle rock.
Setting glass and working with a surround are very different. Its existing, so never totally dry and residue from a previous job. Very different scenarios. You seek something that will bond and seal under less than ideal conditions .
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Personally, I would use the 10yr. Not only do I do custom shower doors, I build custom cladded doors also, and use GE 1200 series silicone. I have Footlocker storefronts around the country that 1200 has been holding 250# Stainless steel soffit panels overhead for over 10 years without issue.
Now, for the wall pieces that are peeling off the wall, I would use 1200 without thinking twice. You need to make sure that the substrate is good and DRY before squeezing any in, and give it a good 24hrs for it to set up and stick.
These are all cladded doors with dissimilar metals, Stainless on Aluminum and 1200 is used without issue. Once it’s dry, it’s a MF to get off. Also, the Footlockers aren’t dissimilar metals, it’s stainless to drywall. We use it because of the expansion/contraction factor. Exterior doors, the stainless and aluminum expand/contract at different rates, and have some doors that after 15 years are still going strong with no peeling or separation.
I wouldn’t use DAP products as they are good for about a year or so, then you have issues, cracking, peeling, mildew etc.
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@Kgrim, thank you for including the pictures. I always like seeing your shop and what you’ve got going on. 
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@mota I know I haven’t posted in a while, but, have been working on some interesting stuff.
These are the latest doors, custom machined stainless steel, 1 3/8” security glass, will be cladded with a slight metallic tan aluminum.
Weight-787#’s per door. Glass alone is 422#’s
This is for the new series of “Fruit” computer stores, they are calling Vintage E.
The storefront metal for these stores require a ton of machine work also.
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Thank you so much for the photos and notes. I know you’re a busy guy, and I really appreciate you taking the time.
At 1 3/8", I’m not surprised the glass weighs that much! Is that typical for commercial glass doors? I mean, those doors don’t look particularly large for a retail entry. Wow.
I had no idea one would use silicone to secure metal cladding to a different base metal, particularly stainless.
Thanks again! Really interesting.
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@mota These are the new “Security Standard” for the new run of “Fruit” computer stores. Coming to a store near you soon. You can figure out who they are for, LOL, I just can’t say the name due to NDA’s.
During the riots of 2020-2021 a lot of stores were broken into because of the entry doors. 1/2” Tempered is some pretty tough glass, but, can be broken. Even the stores that had 13/16” Tempered Laminated glass, they were able to get thru. Being doors with just top and bottom rails, once broken, would fold out of the pivots.
They pulled all construction off the books until this year. We worked exclusively with them, designed and engineered “in house” their new storefront extrusions, (which we own the rights too) and doors. These Beasts, have 2 layers of 9/16” laminated glass with a wicked security laminate, and a small air spacer.
The idea was, you might get thru one layer, but not 2, and all the testing shows these are some of the strongest entry doors available.
Hurricane rated beyond the Large Missle Impact Test, we can install these doors anywhere in the world. These took all the testing facility threw at them, even beyond the requirements of the LM test. Maxed out their testing gun, and doors still remained intact and functioning.
We have a LOT going on this next couple of years, especially getting our own patented Aluminum Entry doors. We are working on and have been on the design and engineering of the extrusions, which we are on Revision #16. We will be 1 of a FEW companies that will have doors certified to 14ft tall. These designers just want taller and taller entrance doors. Don’t really know why, as an 8ft door is plenty, it seems they are now wanting 12ft and above for the “aesthetics”.
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@mota
These stores require a lot of 24ft pieces. Thankfully I have a machine that can run 24 footers, LOL
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Anybody have a newish/recently purchased DeWalt 20V Max XR Battery that is known to be genuine (bought from a legitimate retail store, locally, in person, etc.) that they wouldn’t mind sharing a few good pictures of? The Logo, the bottom, the info/codes/numbers, etc.? Every side if possible.
The counterfeit market is pretty crazy. I spent a couple hours trying to get hold of dewalt today, no luck.
Also, apparently (one video mentioned that…) their “QR codes” which are glossy stickers on the outside of the box (I don’t have clamshell/plastic, don’t know if they have this QR sticker) don’t work for batteries, only for tools. The tool I have gives a link to the “tool lookup” and “finds” it. The two battery/charger kits I have bring up nothing. I even checked the QR code screen printed onto the battery to see if that made a difference, but it didn’t.
ProjectFarm was able to register a knock off battery on the dewalt site though. So… what the fuck?
Allowing third parites/knock offs and scammers to sell plausible looking clones of your products, which will be of lesser quality and also dangerous in this case, is a great way to have your reputation drop. This is pretty lame.
This is also lame, and half-assed:
Didn’t want to have to take the thing apart to confirm authenticity.
There are some variants. Even though I’ve bought a quantity across several years, the datecodes are 2021. Primarily purchased from the bigbox and a couple batteries do not have the QR codes.
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Replied to you at the bottom.
This is how easy it should be (with QR/Barcode on the retail pack/box, or with the actual battery):
Fake vs. Genuine, and qr codes not working:
This guy’s fake was sold by and shipped by amazon:
@Northern_Loki
Yea, there are definitely some variants. (Can you scan your battery’s QR code and see if it brings anything up?)
I just had mine apart to take a look. Appears to have a good looking circuit board, solder/welds, and all that. The cells inside have the color of wrap I was expecting (for samsung INRs), but I was hoping to see more text on the labels/wraps (I wanted to see that full label with brand and model number). But the plastic cage wraps around the bottom a bit and all along the top side everything is turned so that you can’t see any info (why would they do that on genuine packs, I don’t know). The only thing I can make out on one from the bottom is a random “5”, and then elsewhere “INR 1"”, and on the end of the pack I can make out on one cell “FIRE HAZARD! xxT FOR xAPE! NEVER IxxTALL, CARRY OR HANDLE!”.
That 6AH of yours has a different bottom than I’ve seen, with that yellow “DeWalt” logo on there, and the information above and below it running 90* to the direction it does on the other batteries I’ve seen.
Edit: I scanned the QR on the battery in your picture, haha. It came back as “Tool Found!” on the usn.dewalt.com/ whatever site. This is weird…
The one I have is not “scanned product not found”. But the recip saw is “Tool Found”.
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If anyone else is a DeWalt user and has batteries of the description I posted, could you also please share pictures and where you bought (eg: home depot, lowes, other local physical retail store, amazon.ca/.com - and if it was sold by amazon or a third party, etc.)? I know there’s gotta be more of you here.
Particularly 5AH dewalt batteries, especially if purchased recently (I duno, last year or so? But post either way.)
Amp hours, pictures, where purchased, when, does it have a QR code, does that code bring you to a dewalt site and successfully “Find” the “Tool”/product.
Just ignore this post if you’re not interested have not info to put out there. It’s all good.
Thanks.
Meanwhile, I’m waiting to hear back from DeWalt, and a couple sellers. You will see some ridiculous posts/pics and info on this shit if you look, haha.
For your information:
I have an 4AH battery that also has the DeWalt logo on the bottom. Date code for that one is 2022 purchased 2022.
Some 5AH that do not have that logo on the bottom, datecode 2021 purchased in 2022. And, with the text as one block and not rotated.
Also have a couple that are missing QR codes, datecodes 2021. Could be early 2021. And a 5AH purchased in 2022 with a datecode of 2019. These do not have the same serial number markings. These seem to have a slightly different plastic housing latch, as well, but the material appearance and construction otherwise align.
Similarly an 8AH pack that is missing the QR and serial info. 100% recall this one was from an impact wrench kit from the big box stores. 2021. Cells sourced from Korea. Assembled in China. DeWalt logo included on bottom.
The packs cell manufacturing information vary and note several different countries of origins for the cells including Korea and Malaysia.
The packs assembly locations vary and note assembly in several different countries including the US, Mexico, and China.
Tangled web to decode.
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Not much to throw at it, but I hung up those heavy drills and impacts years ago. I strictly use 12v’s now in the shop. Don’t much care if I can’t run all day on one battery, since changing, my body said thank you.
Lugging those 18-20v’s all day was taking a toll.
I just bought 2 new 12v drills, and Dewalt has changed them entirely, now they are the size of the impacts, and have the metal transmission, but weigh the same as the old drills. Purchased from one of my tool suppliers for WAY less than a “box” store wants. Got some batteries that are so old, date code has worn off them, and the new charger actually brought life back to them.
Date code barely visible circa 2010, then 2013, and 2024.
I wouldn’t say I’m a DeWalt “fanboy” but, they’ve treated me very well, especially in our industrial environment.
Charger changes over the last 14-15 years.
I own a LOT of 12v drills and Impacts, and going back, I’ve only had 1 drill and 1 impact die on me, and it wasn’t the tool itself, it was the trigger.
All manufacturers have their place in the industrial, commercial, building, fabrication sectors, yes, some may be better than others, but Dewalt offers a comfortable, durable product for me that others don’t.
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I’ve been happy with DeWalt. Last driver was >20 years old but the clutch was starting to slip and you could smell that the brushes were starting to go. Did use that for commercial handy-man work a number of years ago. Still have some of the original battery packs that still work. A couple of packs died. Instead of purchasing and repair, went with refresh with the newer stuff … hopefully as durable.
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I don’t have much to add but Mrs Foreigner works for a power tool company and said loudly “don’t buy from third party sellers!”
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I have a question about selling a home, it’s going to be specific to Canada, as it involves legality and “codes” (building codes, electrical for example). But feel free to weigh in regardless of geography, if you want to.
When selling a house, how does the “inspection” part go - particularly (or for example) when it comes to electrical?
I’ll give you an example of what I mean. You’re selling your house, realtors come by and look at things, blah blah, at some point an inspector or inspectors are going to come by. Are they going to look at, say, an electrical panel, then glance down at some “notes” and immediately say “Hmm, there are two new circuits. Who put those in/where’d they come from?”. Or maybe they see, for example, yellow NMD, and coming from a panel and say “Hmm, there weren’t any 20amp circuits in this house/panel at the time of our last records…”? Or anything like that?
How does this work?
I can give more details.
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