If your back is as bad as you say, perhaps think about doing the painting yourself, but nothing else. It’s true, mudding is easier than hanging, but it ain’t a lark if you’ve got a bum back. You are constantly applying pressure to one edge of your knife as you apply the mud to the wall surface while holding a pan of mud weighing a few pounds in your other hand. I just think it would be a lot to ask of an already damaged back.
1 Like
I wasn’t planning on doing any of this drywalling myself, guys. I was just wondering how much work and mess it’d be, for whoever does it. Time, cost, and mess. Messy like as in I’ll have to remove every single thing from the room (and I mean stuff other than garden equipment, which I’ll defnitely be removing all of. I mean everything; shelving units, etc. etc.
2 Likes
It’s not a particularly big job. Being generous, maybe a day to hang and get a first mud coat on. Second day, sand and a second coat, maybe three hours. Third day, just sand, maybe an hour. But then there’s the clean up. That will take much more time than the final sand or painting.
I would definitely suggest removing everything that’s not an integral part of the room.
2 Likes
make sure you tape all the vents in the room first and take out as much as you can. if you can lay plastic over the entire floor and tape the edges it saves carpet. seal all the doorways to other rooms with plastic sheeting and painters tape for ease of removal. not sure what they charge there but i would expect around $500 for that size wall.
2 Likes
Being only a small job, you might find it hard to get someone for a reasonable price, they may charge you for a full day even if they only do a couple of hours on the final sanding.
I just finished drywalling the next bedroom in our house, it wasn’t an easy job, as the walls become about 30 degrees slant to the ceiling 40 inches up. I have a drywall lift so it makes life a lot easier on ceilings and angled walls working on your own.
I only do 2 coats of mud and one sanding then a fine skim coat on any areas with holes too big to sand out. I fill any big gaps with P90 hard plaster, then tape, if you don’t fill large gaps in the joints first you can distort the tape with your first coat. Then I put my first coat of P90 over the tape a couple of inches either side of the joint, when dry just knock off any ruff bits with a six inch knife, then put on my finish coat with a soft sand mud to about 8 inches either side of the joints, once dried I sand that with a coarse grit first then finish with a fine grit. Then I check for any holes, mark them with a pencil, and go over with the soft sand mud but a little bit wetter to finish those areas off.
As you can see its pretty messy, those floor boards were dark brown, before I started lol. I lifted the top floor boards off first, as I am doing a Shou Sugi Ban japanese wood burning effect as I did on the bedroom and onsuite bathroom I built last year. They will go back in after I finish painting the walls and ceiling.
Here’s a couple of pics of the floor in the bedroom and bathroom I did last year. I still have to make the baseboards up but need to build a bigger bench for my router, it’s difficult getting a nice pattern on a 12ft piece of 1x6 on a 2ft bench top lol. Window and door frame trim is not too hard as they are relatively shorter.
13 Likes
That is an excellent point! 
The finished floors in the bedroom and bathroom are beautiful. Is the floor lumber a hardwood?
2 Likes
It’s the original 150 year old Hemlock planking, it had six coats of paint and stain on them. So I ran them through my planner first to get them back to a wood finish, then burned, sanded and varnished them. I also ran them through the router to make them tongue and groove, had to make several lengths up from new wood to compensate for the half inch I lost on each one, as well as some that just split and cracked when I lifted them.
7 Likes
I thought it looked like fir but not quite right, so my next thought was a hardwood.
Thank you.
1 Like
Who would I call if I wanted to build a greenhouse in my front lawn? Eta: who at the county? I can build it, but I don’t need the law on my lawn for breaking a code of something
I live in Virginia, I’m zone rural residential. When the house was built in 1947 it was about 50’ from the road. They moved the road in the 50s (I believe, they moved it a long ass time ago) and now my house, including a covered deck which was added in the 90s, maybe sits 150 feet from the road. So plenty of lawn for greenhouse.
Picture tax
7 Likes
Likely the county building inspector. Just call the County Administrator and they will hopefully put you through to the correct department. Not sure what kind of greenhouse you are putting up, but some times the regulations do not pertain to temporary structures. So, might be really easy for you if you are just erecting a typical hoop house.
3 Likes
Virginia has adopted the 2021 international building code. With that said your county can amend the code but must make their amended version available and most counties will post it online quick Google of your county and 2021 IBC should get you there. I recommend you save it as a pdf so it is a searchable pdf and by hitting control and f together a search box will pop up. Type in greenhouse and everywhere greenhouse appears in the doc you can jump there and save you time. The inspector or department must be available for questions during designated office hours but depending on the size of your county they may contract out…usually to the lowest bidder and so sometimes dumb as dirt but always good to have that conversation with them if needed. Best of luck on that greenhouse and hope you post up when you do move forward
5 Likes
Weekend warrior working it out
Nailed the second one🏹
This one has a little swerve to it. Shhh…
Anybody else ever built a round 6” tapered column:?
14 Likes
Looks great from here! Don’t worry about that swerve… anybody that gets close enough to see that and talk shit is close enough to smack in the mouth. 
4 Likes
That’s a very impressive piece of work right there! 
1 Like
anyone do any asbestos abatement? just bought a house with asbestos tiles in the basement covered by carpet. some of the carpet was gone showing the tiles so we decided to pull up the carpet and paint it with epoxy paint, then put linoleum or something over it. been reading where you want to remove the old wax and clean it good without disturbing it. i am pretty good at cleaning but any recommendations from someone who has done it are always welcome. i think i may wear my mask and tyvek suit for the carpet removal, just in case.
1 Like
The Asbestos containing tiles are usually 7 inches. The 10 inch ones are clear .
The Asbestos is tied up in the matrix of the tile, but the black glue has Asbestos also and is the source of the danger from becoming dust . Create a negative air flow by sealing a strong fan in the window and suit up when you remove the carpet. The glue is impossible to get up without removing the subfloor. If you Encapsulate it , consider Polyurethane thinned a bit and put on with a squeegee. Then use it full strength second pass. My brother was certified for a few years. Good luck.
4 Likes
thanx for that, seems like really close to what i had planned so that makes me feel better. i hadn’t thought about polyurethane, but they make asbestos paint that costs $350 for 5 gallons. i only need 2 so i got epoxy paint for garage floors. i figure since it is going to get linoleum over it it shouldn’t ever wear out enough to let any fibers through. i have it sealed up now, that’s one thing i learned years ago. i was thinking about wetting it down to remove all risk but then you have a wet nasty mess. can’t wait to get moved in.
1 Like
Hey guys (by the way, how’s it going @Kgrim). I need some advice.
I need to replace the caulking in a shower surround. It’s coming off, and also getting moldy.
It’s a three piece corner shower kit; the floor/pan, two walls, and a inner corner piece with the shelves.
The vertical edges/sides of the corner shelf piece are what I’m really unsure about (see DIY video link below). The adhesive behind the corner piece is inadequate/has failed, and the caulking along those edge seams is totally failed too (on the inside face of the shower).
-
I’m not sure what product to use to stick those edges of the corner piece back down with properly, nice and tight. I think we used PL-Premium to glue the flat wall pieces to the walls (drywall), but I don’t remember the if we used that to install the corner piece on top of them - almost certainly did though.
-
I’m afraid to use PL-Premium too near to the edge seams of that corner piece (in case some gets squeezed/oozed out, or smears/drips, etc.).
I don’t think just straight up K&B 100% silicone is “glue” enough to actually use for that purpose… what do you think?
DIY install video (for clear idea. video starts where it shows the piece).
In the above video. The guy mentions these two products:
Lepage PL700 for the adhesive, and Lepage “2-in-1 Seal and Bond” (they come in a kit too, and also other brands have equivalent product I think).
I read some reviews on HD about the 2-in-1, they’re not very good.
At 50:00 minutes into video he uses the 2-in-1 seal and bond to “caulk” or “finish” those vertical seams of the corner piece.
- I don’t know how difficult it’s going to be to get whatever goop in behind the lifted up lips/edges of the corner piece, but whatever goop ends up smearing out a little will have to be acceptable (and “clean-up-able” to a degree for a few minutes at least).
Maybe I should use the PL700 and try to get that in behind the lip. Then wipe/clean it up from the outside of the lip/seam, tape or assist to hold it down, then when cured/adhered, I could go over that seam with a bit of caulking? There’s not much of a “channel”, gap or trough to actually get much caulk in that “seam” though.
Things?:
-PL700
-2-in-1 Seal and Bond
-100% Silicone Kitchen and Batch Caulk
-Scraper tools (I have some but open to ideas)
-Silicone profiling kit (bought one)
-[Solvent] Methyl Hydrate/Methylated Spirits/Methanol (for cleaning degreasing. Not sure best solvent safe for shower surround - likely pvc and or abs parts?). But I also have Isopropyl, acetone (way too harsh) and varsol (petroleum based?). I don’t have mineral spirits (also petroleum based), but I don’t think that sounds like the right solvent. And this isn’t for “dissolving” the old caulk, it’s just for cleaning/de-greasing - though I did see some products like that at the store.
- I’m now wondering about any water/mold behind that lip, caulking, corner piece. What do you guys think about that?
3 Likes
Look at Lexel. Just open it and clean it best you can. Make a bead Inside between the pieces. Then use it to again seal the ends . Cut your tube carefully to finish without finger spreading. Just lay a nice bead on the joint. Brace with scrap wood to hold together if needed. Good Luck !
3 Likes
“Lexel”?
…Ok… You don’t mean remove it though (it’s glued in), right? You just mean try and pry it open a bit and get whichever goop in there?
Also, gonna be pretty impossible to clean behind that piece through a 1/4" or 1/2" gap (I’m guessing. Maybe it’ll open a bit more…).
What should I use though, I wonder. Awaiting others’ replies, too.
Thank you @Hashpants
1 Like