Creating an onsuite bathroom is next for me, tomorrow I am taking off the vynil siding outside to remove 2 windows and a door. One window is disappearing, the other is getting moved and turned on its side, the bottom of the door is becoming part of the wall and the top half is going to be a new window.
Then it’s insulating the ceiling, vapor barrier, build a frame for the shower, rough in the plumbing, add shower base, cut a hole in the wall for the exhaust fan, add 2x2 studs on top of the 2x4 on the outside wall studs, drywall the ceiling, insulate the walls and vapor barrier put up the backer board, waterproof the backer board, tile and grout, drywall, tape and joint the walls, primer sealer on the drywall, paint, put down the flooring, install the toilet and sink vanity.
Put up the lights, I have already roughed in the power. Then add the baseboards and trim, put new siding on outdide, connect plumbing into the main sewer drain, and add a vent pipe as I can’t find one anywhere.
Hoping to be done by Christmas, my weed consumption has trippled to combat the pain since I started renovations, so things are going slowly, sometimes I can only manage a couple of hours, especially if am working with my hands above my shoulders.
I feel like an idiot for asking this, but figured I should.
My 120v,100w led died yesterday. I can’t find any 100/120v replacement panels. Can I use one of these 220v led panels to replace it? I was gonna get the 200w led matrix.
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You need a 220v outlet in order to plug in a 220v appliance. You generally can’t plug in a 220v only item into 120v outlet. Some led drivers can do both, but down here in the states, the plugs are physically different between 120v and 220v, and most houses down here are 110/120 only, with maybe a single or two 220v outlets for the washer/dryer and stuff. Unsure if it’s the same up there or not…
Yes, you probably could but Not exactly what I would call a good idea. Yes, you are “underpowering” the panel using 120v but it was designed and built for 220v.
I’m not an electrician by any means, but it’s not something I would try.
I agree fully with @HolyAngel and @Kgrim. You may be able to make it work for a little while, but in my opinion, you are asking for a load of trouble you don’t want.
What are my options to replace it, exactly. What specs. Just a 3-hole faucet with 4" center? Not sure exactly what that means: “Fits 3 hole sinks with 4" (10 cm) centre”.
Could I get one of those faucets that has a single handle to replace it? I also would like to replace the “basic” utility type spigots for the utility laundry sink with something that has a single handle. But I duno if that’s an option or a good idea either.
Bonus question, why the fuck is a bathroom sink 32" from the floor? Who in the fuck is this for? The bottom of the inside of the sink is 26" from the floor? It might as well be a puddle on the ground, and I just lay down and rub my face in it. I’m only 6’ tall. It’s ridiculous. You’d think it was for washing one’s balls in, because they’re up higher than the edge of the sink. You’re welcome for that image.
Thanks.
Edit, it’s one of those pedestal style sinks. I need to replace the drain assembly section too, because the fake chrome ring that surrounds the “stopper” is rusted from the constant leaking from the faucet. I bought a new “cartridge” for the handle/line I thought was leaking, years ago, haha! Might as well replace the whole thing though.
This shows essentially what I need to do, I guess (soapy woodrr fans rejoice):
Edit: Should I look for another faucet with the rod actuated drain, or is the “pop up” drain style acceptable/suitable? Pros/Cons? Have to stick you hand into the filled sink in order to open the drain plug, that doesn’t seem like a Pro to me.
Okay, partial answer. Photos would be very helpful. (That’s not my partial answer! HA!)
Yes.
It probably is an option. Again, pictures of what exactly you’ve got there would be very helpful.
I’m just guessing here, but I think it’s for kids.
The only real difference is it may make the work a little more difficult, but not really hard.
That’s called a pop-up, because when you push the plunger down on the faucet housing, it pops up. When you buy a new vanity faucet, it should come with the drain assembly. I’ll just mention that pop-ups can be fussy. I personally prefer an old school stopper on a chain. Fucking Luddite here!
Thanks for your answers.
You mean where the drain hole is just a straight up drain hole, and then you use a “rubber stopper/plug” like this, old school(?):
that means it is 4" from the center of each hole to the center of the next one. that makes it 8" from the center of the outside hole to the center of the other outside hole.
Yeah I do when I shave, otherwise the tap is constantly running to clean the razor.
You can replace it with a 2 lever single spigot on both your bathroom and laundry sink, you just need to make sure the replacement covers the center hole if it’s a 3 hole tap sink. Which as sfzombie says is an 8 inch centered unit.
A lot of pedestal sinks are that height, I am 6 ft 3 and have to bend over a lot, if you can get a small cabinet that is higher you can mount the sink higher.
I got a new fangled spring loaded sink plug its really cool.
I will post some pics on my new bathroom It’s nearly finished, battery is dying on my tablet at the moment it’s already cut out once before I finished writing,
Sorry man missed your questions. I have 10 acres of woods so I collect what I can access easily from that and usually buy 2 chords from a local guy already chopped up. He charges 280 a chord including delivery which is pretty cheap, we are semi rural here.
Its a small one 3500w to 4000w peak, so far only needed it once, I dragged it 100 feet through 15 inches of snow, should have moved it before the storm lol.
The power had been off 3 hours and the wife was worried about the freezer thawing out so I reluctantly dragged it over connected it up went in the house thoroughly knackered from the exercise sat down and the power came back on lol.
This year its sat at the back of the house ready, I built a little hutch for it to keep it from being buried in snow, not needed it yet, nearly yesterday, the power went but only for an hour, its been really cold the last couple of days and I think electric demand was so high in the morning it blew something somewhere.
It was below 40F in the house yesterday morning at 5am the oil furnace thermostat only goes down that far, and the furnace came on lol.
We usually set it at 40F to stop it coming on as we usually only turn it on for 10 minutes in the morning to heat the ground floor quickly while the wood stove and heat pump get up to temp.
quote=“Nitt, post:50, topic:104828”]
bet you love the wood stove
[/quote]
Yeah we do, its an old oven wood stove so I cook on it in winter, but its slowly falling apart and the ash gets everywhere. We have looked at replacing it with a modern smaller version that is probably going to reduce tbe amount of wood burnt by 75% but a new one needs to have its first burn done outside as the paint fumes are pretty toxic, so looking to get that in the summer and installed ready for next winter.
4" is the most common spread for vanity faucets. An 8" spread is typical for kitchen faucets.
I believe you said are replacing an existing faucet. You can measure between the two inlets on that faucet’s bottom. You know, for the hot and cold water. 4" centers refers to the distance between the centers of those two threaded inlets. You can, of course, do the same for your kitchen faucet. It will be 8".
I suggest you may want to invest (or perhaps rent) a basin wrench. It will greatly ease removal and installation of the nuts that hold the faucet in place on the sink. If you are at all a serious tool user, I predict you will find it a most excellent tool. It’s true, it’s a unitasker (which is not my favorite kind of tool), but it’s the only tool I know that really works efficiently for this particular job.
On vanity faucets, the pop-up plunger (the vertical part that you push/pull down/up) goes though the center hole of the sink. There are also two hole sinks with 4" centers, however, a faucet with a pop-up won’t typically work in them.
Oh yeah those things rock and are actually pretty useful for other hard to get at bolts or nuts, I have def seen someone using one on a truck engine to reach in somewhere for a sensor
That’s the damn truth about wood, grew up in a wood heated house and I sometimes miss the rhythm of labor that goes with it, keeps you warm and gets ya off the couch during the winter SAD
This is my preferred style. It telescopes for convenience when dealing with various depth sinks, as well as non-plumbing jobs as @Dirt_Wizard points out. The other up side is they are simply a much more sturdy tool.
It certainly did that lol, I learn from my mistakes though so it’s not happening again unless we get some freak snow storm in the summer lol.
I connected up the taps to the sink with the sink and vanity top on the bed lol, then just put the vanity top and sink on the base, I would not have bable to get in there at all otherwise.
The other up side is they are simply a much more sturdy tool.