I should have spent a little bit more time looking for some answers before asking here, but also figured it’ll benefit anyone else wondering here. But I think it’s actually 4" from center to center of the outside holes (the supply line/hot and cold lines holes. Where the handles are.) I just measured center to center on the handles of my faucet too, to check.
Yea. To shave. Or in a kitchen, one might do that to soak dishes.
You sure? I don’t think it is. I think it’s 4" center to center.
Random pic:
Yea, I have herniated discs. Everything sucks.
Thanks for writing, man.
No problem. And thanks for taking the time to answer them. I’d love to get outta the shity - I mean city - into somewhere ‘rural’.
Thanks for the info, man. I do love tools, and I’ve spent so much money on them. I have a stupid amount of them. This sounds like one I don’t want to buy. I should be able to make something else work. And I appreciate the heads up about this one. Maybe I’ll need one.
I’m worried about the drain pipe assembly, and being able to get in behind that pedestal to do any of that. Have to have a look at that today.
Some pedestal sinks are two pieces, the sink and the pedestal. Be sure to check which you have. If it is two pieces, taking the two pieces apart will make your job easier. Be sure to turn the water off at the stops and disconnect the fill lines before taking the sink unit apart.
This is actually one tool for which I disagree. As I said above, it’s a unitasker, but there is no real replacement. And you’re working on a porcelain sink, as I recall. You definitely don’t want some make-do not really an equivalent tool. Porcelain is hard, but you can break it with a metal tool that you’re applying torque to (like a Crescent wrench with a breaker).
That same company that makes the telescoping wrench @mota posted also makes something called the Basin Buddy, which is their patented tool that uses standard sockets and extensions, and takes up a lot less space while still being pro-grade and universal, but then it fits in a ratchet set for storage. I guess if you’re handy at basic metal cutting and machining you can make one yourself out of a junk socket, but that’s a project in and of itself.
Interesting. I have a couple of hand held tools that do the same thing. They have the same cut away. It’s a useful tool.
What it won’t do is loosen an old school nut on a threaded stud on an old style faucet. When you’re dealing with them, and they can get seriously rusted on, I’ve had to actually cut the nut off with a hacksaw blade. Not the saw’s frame, there’s no room for that, just a very short length of blade. That’ll drive you nuts!
Thanks. An oxygen sensor socket also popped into my head, haha. And a crows foot socket adapter as well. But I duno.
Mine is in two pieces. Was just wondering how to access the drain pipe assembly. It’s hidden inside the pedestal part. So I wonder how the fuck the “extension” piece which I’d expect to have a locknut on it would be loosened prior to lifting the basin off. What the fuck, haha.
Those short handles that hold a hacksaw blade are great. I have one.
I agree, but the tool itself often takes up too much space to be practical in this application. But really, it’s the last thing you want to have to do. Explore all options first. And it’s only about old school faucets with a regular 3/8"(?) nut on a stud. Newer sinks no longer use this method. Newer sinks use a nut with tabs, like the BasinBuddy @Dirt_Wizard pointed out. I like that you can use it on a standard ratchet. That’s very slick!
I know all about “shitty, rusted, damaged, cold, salty, did I say rusty(?), you’ll need a torch, you have one shot to remove without making the job take 20x longer or be impossible” fasteners. From the diy automotive world.
If you do too, you probably just had flashbacks. Sorry for that ptsd trip. Haha.
I too grew up in a wood heated house …my younger brother ran a successful firewood company …he sold all the equipment when it just costed to much to get tree length into his yard
And would you even attempt this: I want to try and “recess” the hole for a “bulk head” drain fitting from an ebb flow kit, to get less standing water in the diy wooden tray I’m making after irrigation. I want the top of the inside part of the fitting to recess, or at very least flush with the inside bottom of the “tray”. The gasket has to go on the inside, and it and the actual fitting have a certain thickness to them. The OSB is also only 3/8" thick, so there’s not much material to work with.
I have, before, layed a piece of material in the bottom of the tray that raises up the entire bottom -except- for the section where I’d drill the drain hole, thus making the drain area lower/flush, but I don’t have any material around to do that with.
I’ve never done it, but if the OSB is thick enough and bit is sharp, I think you’d be okay. 3/8" though…
I’m not sure I understand exactly what you’re doing, however, I’d say two things in general. First, remember, Forstner bits have a guide point and winged cutters that protrude past the bottom of the main blade. My guess is that with material that thin you won’t get much of a hole without going through the OSB. Second, if part of the drain fitting clamps into the hole rather than around (the diameter) of the hole, there may not be enough strength left to hold it in place. As I recall, OSB is great for shear strength, shit for tinsel strength.
I’m just (poorly) describing how any drain (I think) is designed for the fitting to be flush/(level) with the “floor”. Like a shower, or even most floor drains - like…in a basement or something. It’s level, or even slightly below the “floor”, so the water can more fully drain.
Imagine a 1" piece of wooden board, for argument sake. Say the “ebb flow” drain fitting (a bulkhead, basically) needs a hole that is 1.5" diameter to go through. The “flange” of the top of the bulkhead, the part that will sit on the “floor” of the tray, is a larger diameter, obviously. Say it’s 2" diameter. So you’d get a forstner bit (unless a better option I don’t know about) that is larger diameter than that, say 2.25". You would use that to start drilling into the area you want your bulkhead to go through, to make a 2.25" “recessed” area (for the 2" flange to sit down into), not all the way through, just the thickness of the flange (maybe 1/8" to 1/4", depends). Then, using the center point that the forstner bit made, you’d use whatever drill bit (holesaw, spade bit, etc.) to drill the actual hole, for the bulkhead fitting to go through. Then the flange of the fitting would be at or below the level of the tray floor, allowing the majority of the water to drain out, instead of not being able to make it over the “lip”/height/thickness of the flange.
Another option might be to “score” and chisel a area out for this, but with OSB, I don’t even want to try that.
I also thought about using some wicking material to facilitate draining. I’ve done that. It’s not ideal though.
Do you have any epoxy sitting around? Bar/table top or the like? You could prop up the bulkhead side of the tray by an 1/2-1” and pour in any type of hard setting acrylic or poly so it pooled against the opposite end wall and made a sloped floor, it wouldn’t take much of a grade to drain fully, just a couple degrees.
Alternately you could just raise the table six inches or so and and angle it slightly in the process, then install a vertical gravity drain?
Either way whenever I’m drilling OSB or other engineered materials I like to put a layer or two of painters tape on each side before drilling to reduce face damages from chipping
I don’t wanna get too complex with epoxy and stuff. I already have a big roll of extra thick poly plastic for the liner (I’ve done this before). And even with raising the opposite side a bit, the flange thickness plus the gasket is thick enough to where the remaining water is annoying. And then some evaps, or dries and leaves salt, and if recirculating (which I’m not planning on for this next run, but might do in the near future) then then get put back into the res after the next irrigation event.
What about something like this $15 restaurant drain instead of the bulkhead, then just adapt it to whatever your drain line size is? They usually call it an on-grade floor drain or sometimes flush mount.
Yea, exactly. It’s less than ideal, and annoying.
Spent some time working on shit today. Got a couple tables built, rebuilt from materials I had. Just some finishing up to do, including making the holes and lining the one I need asap.
Can’t risk ruining the osb trying to do this the wrong way. So I’ll probably just live with it for now, and use a piece of some wicking material. I’m eyeing a cheap (metric) forstner bit set on amazon.
