anyone ever seen or used this (automated) system for curing?
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Yup there are a few in this forum that use autoburping systems…
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That top line in the graph does a good job of showing how if you jar too early, the RH creeps back up fast in the jar and you’ll be burping all the time or have musty weed. If you leave it a full seven days like the last graph, you can see how that top line gently arcs up over a few days, meaning you can burp daily for a week and then every two for another week or two and be done. No need to be burping jars twice a day for weeks like people experience jarring early.
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Thanks for sharing that info. I find that the wispy landrace sativas dry real fast relative to the fuller flower - what do you propose is the best way to measure current/present RH of flower if you don’t have a baseline (original wet weight?)?
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Seal it up in a bin with a mini hygrometer visible through the side, wait 3-6 hours and see if it goes up. If it goes up more than 1% open it back up for another 3-6 hours and repeat, until it’s holding at the RH you want
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All 3 probes are in my drying/curing bin. Am I at risk of mold with these readings (top 3).
Temps are between 16-18c and humidity between 60-65%
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As i understand it, to reduce mold chances its important to lower the RH as much as you can (i can go as low as 30%) during the first 24h (its better if you can measure water activity until it hits 50%).
Then 60% for a week + or so should be ok, higher than that not so much.
If theyre all in jars already, then 63% is nearing the limit. I tey to keep em at 59-60% in jars.
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I agree with @the_bot, 59-60 RH is safe if not optimum. I’ve had jarred weed get moldy at 63% RH. Not good.
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Looks beautiful to me! Nice numbers IMO
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Do you have a fan in the room?
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Everything is in a tote…but I open it and fan it often when rh gets too high.
Looks like this…you can see the 3 probes between the bags.
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That’s how I do whole plants just like that, a tote, an RH meter taped to the side, and fan it for 15 seconds twice a day until its stable
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I jist went through each bag and smelled and eyeballed and everything looks good. Found a few bags that were still kinda wet…so pulled them and letting then air from a while.
Will see if rh can hold steady at desire levels.
Rise, fall or stable…let’s see.
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A peel from a potato works well also.
Agreed, Cuban cigars for reference are best aged at between 60-65%, I keep mine at 62%, some are 20 years old and I have never had any mould on them.
In a perfect world, I would dry my plants in a dry cold room. Heat and excessive humidity are definitely the enemy of tasty weed.
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I’ve never dried refrigerated.
Fructification is a word we don’t see often. I like it a lot. 
Thank you so much for those charts!
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Me either, I only cure and store in the fridge, drying is at ambient room temperatures
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if someone is going to be at Emerald this year… the panel discussion "“Improving Post-Harvest Production to Protect Plant Integrity.” with Allison Justice seems interesting for purpose of this thread.
(interview question to Allison Justice prior to the panel) its a teaser as she doesnt explain things, but promises to deliver at Emerald.
You’re presenting some of your findings in drying and curing at the Emerald Conference. What are you most excited to share with the industry?
Reshaping the way people think about drying (harvested cannabis) and how they think of the trichrome structure, which is the part we care about on the flower: understanding how it works physiologically and being able to apply that to shaping how they dry and cure.
We spent hours and hours using really high magnification and going through different drying methods to not only see the difference from an aesthetic standpoint but to get some understanding around how that trichome head works and can be manipulated.
I’ve been thinking of it as a balloon – understanding it’s not just about humidity and temperature; it’s the pressure.
What we’re seeing is the 60/60 drying set point (60 degrees Fahrenheit with 60% humidity) – though it works and produces good, fine flower – it’s not optimized for how the structure of the trichome performs.
Think about the trichome simply being a balloon or a stalk.
Watching the trichome head during drying, the cells within the stalk shrink because they’re full of water like any other plant cell.
But the trichome head itself is the center for production for cannabinoids and terpenes, and it’s not full of water. It’s full of oil.
So, really understanding that you have a balloon, and when you’re changing the pressure that is dictated from humidity and temperature – your vapor pressure – you should think about the balloon being contracted and expanding with the pressure in the environment.
As the plant itself is drying out, the cuticle on the trichome head drying out allows for cracks or ruptures to happen.
You can physically see that on the trichome head and really wrap your head around it.
If you smell the terpenes, then they’re in the air. They’re not necessarily locked in the trichome head.
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It passes the sniff test so to speak. Definitely aligns with observations under the microscope!
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