I was watching BuildASoil on Youtube and in one video he had his LED lights really high up.
Then, for example, I also saw other people mentioning putting the lights higher and let the plants grow into them (I was looking at how to avoid plants being to hot under HPS lights).
How can they not ruin their plants with too big spaces between nodes?
How did it show? I mean, I know how the leaves look when too hot, but did you have to scrap everything and start over or was the yield smaller, or what?
Right now I have them set to 400W (the bulbs are actualy 600W). Perhaps I should just put it to 600W and put them higher.
Perhaps the heat will also be smaller, I’ll see if this will be better for them. It’s difficult to not have them be too hot and still have enought light so they don’t grow too fast.
My flower tent is in the mansard, I once went up and there was a strong plastic burnt smell, one of my perpetual fans was fried , I may be paranoid but wouldn’t take any more chances if I can avoid them, glad it works for you …
That is also a good solution for the OP, that was the purpose of my burnt fan, clipped up on the tent bar horizontally pointing the HPS, after that incident I switched to LED’s and since then sleep peacefully…
LEDs with dimmers allow you to have the lamp close to the canopy when dimmed for veg growth and higher above the canopy with more power for flowering. The higher the lamp the greater the light spread and vica versa.
All light decays by the inverse square law, which dictates that intensity equals the inverse of the square of the distance from the source. For example, the radiation exposure from a point source (with no obstruction) gets smaller the farther away it is. If the source is 2x as far away, it’s 1/4 as much exposure. If it’s 10x farther away, the radiation exposure is 100x less. This law of course is based on the initial lux, so where you have an excess of light, which is super easy to do with light bar lights now, then you can afford to raise the lights and still have sufficient. They won’t stretch unless they are not getting enough, then auxins at the growth tip triggers node elongation and reduces side branching.
The benefit of raising the light for me is mostly heat related, but also ventilation and I actually find it easier to get the light level right by raising the light vs using the inbuilt driver adjustment, just because you have less risk of light bleaching the tops.
I recently purchase a new light, ViparSpectra 1500XS Pro that I consider state of the art for our purposes. This light uses a new “Lensed” technology that seems effective in evening out the hot spots over the entire usable area. I tested this with the PhoTone app and it seems to work.
I’m sure there are other equivalent products available and I’m not pushing this one in particular, but it comes with a recommendation for height adjustment that is very interesting.
Vipar suggests keeping the light just 11" above the top of the plant all the way through the growing cycle. The dimmer is used to adjust the intensity upwards from 25% to 100% as the plant grows from seedling to harvest time.
So I tried this on my latest grow (an oddball 12/12 from seed breeding project) and to my surprise it worked really well, delivering a relatively even intensity at each development level. I kept an 11" height and progressed from (about) 300 ppfd (youngsters) to 600ppfd (Veg) then 900-1000 ppfd all the way to harvest. Of course the canopy wasn’t entirely flat but the tops all saw those intensities.
Anyways, not hawking Vipar, tho I use their gear, just noting that perhaps “Hanging Height” is soon to be retired as a concern?