There are phone apps you can use.
They can be wildly inaccurate compared to a calibrated source but are great for relative measurements.
Cheers
G
My phone’s maxes out at 32763 about 3 inches from the top of my canopy. And doesn’t go any higher. Checked the back of my hand and it’s not uncomfortable but it’s not cool either. I have an ac Infinity with the controller. Not sure how accurate the thermo and hyg. Sensors are. There seems to be a 2 degree difference in my digital and a few off from a mercury . Hyg is usually off by 10 percent rh. I’ve got it out of the direct light and away from direct airflow. Wish I could find a solid way of calibrating
I do have a temp gun
Ran the temp gun on my tops. High temp of 78.1 on the very top nearest the hps. 75 under mh. What kinda temp am I aiming for?
I aim for 3 to 5 degree cooler leaf temp then room temp if your rooms temp is 81/83 according to your leaf temps are you running c02?
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No tanked c02 on. Just the green pads you spray and it supplements. Kinda like the mushroom bags in a sense. Room temps I try to stay at 75 daytime this late in flower, and 64-68 nite time.
Got an issue guys and its weird. I have my mh and hps ballasts on different surge strips rated to handle. When it came time for lights out, one light went out, and my mh stayed on. I manually powered it down but turning off the surge protector. I walk out a few min later and the damm lights back on. I went ahead and unplugged at the ballast. Could it be a mh bulb going out? Or what’s called a hot strike?
Never had that happen if you figure out why I would like to know.
You might want to be careful. It probably isnt this but this is why you will want to be careful, depending what country you are in, just in case. In a MEN electrical system, if the active and neutral are the wrong way round for whatever reason (incorrectly wired house or incorrectly wired light etc) and it has a short to earth. It could still work and behave normal most of the time but when it is switched off, the circuit can still be active. So it could light the globe even with the switch or timer switched off. This is why, even though the active and neutral are kind of the same (both positive and negative) it is very important to make sure you have the switch on the active side of the circuit. It prevents the circuit being live even when it is switched off. Hopefully you or someone you know has skills in electrical and can take a look at it.
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Good point @BudSy, reversed lines can cause weird problems and potential hazards.
Another issue generally overlooked, is that some ballasts (magnetic) can damage or kill timers. The timers may say they can handle 1500 watts but check to see if the are UL rated (some are not). There can be large surges on startup that exceed the max rating of the timer.
The electronic ballasts are better behaved but the best bet is to use those nasty looking industrial timers (they are built to take more abuse) instead of a cheap one.
Cheers
G
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Polarity issues at the plug or in the power bar or screwy timer would be my guess. Buy a cheap plug tester would be the easiest way to find out where you stand on that. I just had a brand new timer used for my 600w HPS leak it’s grease onto the plug prongs and contacts in the timer causing a beautiful burning oil hot electrical smell… In the fucking trash you go I said. I have thought about using HD wall mounted timers in the past and think I really should look into it.
I had a new POS $30 “Energy Saver” power bar that if the master turned on all the slave outlets would too but that worked for a month before the relay fused and slaves were powered all the time.
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Idiot proof and trouble free old school
Or gavita controller if you don’t get many power outages is what I use .I hate power outages and electronic controllers !
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Yup, that’s the beast you want!!
Those are made to take a kicking.
Cheers
G
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So that’s what some wild pony panel with 4 split receptacles with each split on its own 15 amp breaker? If so that bitch is good for 120 amps!? That’s bigger than total 100 amp service into my house I do plan on getting the 100 amp fuse panel replaced and service upgraded to 200 amp maybe next year.
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Good eye I’ve got a couple of those set ups back in my crazy days of 4 lights, fans dehum, humidifier,plus a separate veg room running off the two boxes . Must be built right never burnt the house down lol .
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My problem was the ballast going bad. Didn’t pop the fuse, but busted the capacitor. Vivoshit covers their parts in silicone so you cant repair. I ordered new Cali ballasts. 2 new ones to go with my 2 used ones. Got rid of vivoshit
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