That may be by when I use jacks I mix my batches and they week sit for a week or more before I finish using them and the entire range of the ph During that time is 6.2-6.45. My water is 7.5. I previously used GH and lotus nutrients and they weren’t even close after a week.
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@HolyAngel Thanks, I’ve been playing around w/ soluble gypsum recently based of some of your input in other threads.
@XgrimmX Same here, my tap water starts in the 8’s and I find that the higher my final EC is the more stable that pH will be once I adjust it. That is what I always considered ‘buffered’ but probably not the best use for that word. I think what @BuckBreeder means is that there is no additional ph buffering compound added to the mixture? is this what advanced ph perfect does (they aren’t too open about it on the website)?
I’ve only skimmed over this: Buffer solution - Wikipedia so I don’t know wtf I’m talking about.
thoroughly off topic now… sorry 
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I’ve only used ProMix HP in my GroBuckets and 100% perlite in my hempy buckets…
And only fed MaxiGro/Bloom in the perlite hempy bucket.
Wedding Cheesecake Auto in the hempy bucket a month before harvest, she went 124 days and was over 5’ tall and yielded 13oz dry !
This is a few days before I quit watering altogether.
Six Shooter Auto back left, Gorilla Punch Auto front left in GroBuckets with Mega Crop one part and the Wedding Cheesecake Auto front right with MaxiGro/Bloom.
Hempy bucket root ball, color is from the MaxiGrow 
Cheers
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How many carbonates does your well water contain?I m in a bad water area too and my ppm are lower but I have very hard water,with lots of carbonates and want to save on RO wasting
@Chuckeye
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Is there any good reasonable priced test that can provide a comprehensive water analysis? The local water test only test for bacteria in the well.
I alternate between jack’s and megacrop two part. They’re virtually the same, just purchase the part A and buy whatever for Cal Nitrate. Both will drop the PH if your tap, and if your tap is in the 6.5-7.5 range you won’t need to adjust ahytijv unless you’re on the higher end of that range. Both give you everything you need from start to finish.
I typically run around 1000 ppm with roughly equal parts of both, bump it up to 1500+ for sours and chems.
Also, I have that apera as a backup, it’s fine, but like all of them, even the expensive ones, if you don’t calibrate and maintain them they can get you in trouble. The TDS portion of mine gets wildly out of wack and I usually trust the cheap blue one everyone sells more. What we you get, calibrate it properly and regularly and you’ll be fine.
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Is that a test you bought online and sent in or one from your local water dept?
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Didn’t read every post in here, but you could try to find “compo experts” hakaphos blue and hakaphos red, depending on the hardness of your water maybe the softwater versions.
I grow in coco too and the stuff works great and is cheap as chips. It balances the ph too and got everything you need. Its a full spectrum fertiliser.
As a booster I use MKP…also cheap and it’s effect is crazy. Too crazy for beginners almost…you have to be careful with the amounts or you get budrot due to bud size.
Calmag and enzymes are the two products I’m spending most of my cash on.
Most bottled stuff is made of very similar salts as the ones mentioned by me or others above and actually not worth the money.
I’m pretty sure I saw retailers in America selling compo expert products when I was trying to order some to Australia
If youre interested, I can send a feeding schedule to those for hard water
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Thanks for the input. I’m not seeing that available in the states.
I definitely leaning towards the jacks but with your water you’ll need Epsom salts and 15.5/0/0 every time you feed ( plant need the minerals)
Also you’ll need 10/30/20
For early bloom and custom blends
5/12/26 and 10/30/20 equals parts = a 1/4/4
It’s versatile and cheap
There is a learning curve, just be observant on the plant needs
Paps
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How about making your own nutrients solutions.
Can you buy this brand?
It is not very difficult and a lot cheaper.
If you want to buy in liquid solution, look for gold label nutrients.
If you want to go hydro, just do an eb and flow with mapito it is the best hydro system.
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Local potash mine was doing seismic testing in my area and the water well test was part of the deal !
Cheers
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Iv been using nothing but mega crop for awhile now.
Do you find it dirty like others have stated?
I’ve never heard of well water at that ph.
I thought mine was unusual at 6.3
Anyhow whatever fertilizer you end up using you will most likely need to PH up.
Get yourself a ph/Ec pen or meter and check it often, calibrate etc.
I personally use a continuous read unit by Blue Labs.
Find out through trial and error what amount of Ph up or down you will need to get your ph around 5.8
After that has been figured out.
Add the Ph up or down before you add your fertilizer to avoid lockout.
I would get into the habit of checking your Ph every few days if you want to exercise the most control.
Your plants will thank you.
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The nutrients will change the ph of your water so when I was ph’ing I’d do it After adding nutrients…
Cheers
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You try and figure out what you need ahead of time before you add the nutrients through experimentation.
Otherwise you can expect some nutrient precipitation.
I add one cap full of PH down to a 45 gallon reservoir to bring my solution down from 6.0 to 5.8
LOL, I would need that amount for one gallon of my water !
Haven’t used it in years with ProMix HP and Mega Crop one part or GH Maxiseries !
But, that is with MY well water, YMMV 
Cheers
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Basically you used to ran buckets with promix or perlite and use your tap with maxibloon only and having Great result?
@Chuckeye