No till soil recipe

soil recipe from jeremy@buildasoil.com

Build A Soil From Scratch in 2 Simple Steps…
And Have The Best Grow Of Your Life!
Have you ever thought about how a bagged soil company settles on a recipe? What about where
they get the ingredients from? Can you trust the soil companies?
There are so many soil products on the market and most manufacturers are getting all the same
ingredients from the same sources and getting them bagged all at the same facilities. All that
changes is the label and exact ingredients used. There is little regulation in the industry and the
only approval for a Label is if you are citing NPK numbers or fertilizer claims. Besides that, you
can list your most expensive and attractive ingredient First on the label even if that ingredient
happens to be in the lowest concentration in the soil. This allows companies to list ingredients
that sound incredible but then fail to back them up with actual quantities used. Then as a soil
company gets larger they have to buy in large scale and start looking to the most affordable
sources for ingredients such as, City Waste, Bio-Solids, Poultry Waste, Cattle Waste. Think like a
big company for a minute and compare bagged soil to our food industry but with less regulation,
then you can see how bad the situation truly is. Thankfully there are a number of decent potting
soils on the market but none will compare to making your own from scratch.
So, let’s say you have decided to make your own soil from scratch and are willing to do whatever
it takes to make the best. Well, where do you start? There are so many recipes out there!!!
There is so much talk online in the organic forums about creating an ideal soil. Many different
recipes from many different growers. Some claiming their soil is the best, others indicating that
you should use spikes of nutrients and layers of different soil. It’s challenging as a new grower to
actually decide on a recipe and then stick to it. One of the many things that growers do when
using bottled nutrients, is change nutrient brands all the time. Usually looking for the ultimate
grow product that will finally allow them to purchase a good grow. This mentality usually wears
off after a few runs but it’s important not to start that mind set all over again in organics. If you
are brand new, start to learn why each ingredient is added to a mix. Once you have that
understanding you can easily make a mix from scratch from components that you have available
locally or regionally depending on your budget.
All Credit for recipe to Clackamas Coots
Step #1: Design The Base Mix Ratios.
This is benchmark to use at first and then start tweaking based on your situation.
1:1:1
This means that there are 3 main components at 1 part each.
Example: To make 15 gallons of soil. 1 Part would be 5 gallons.
1 Part Sphagnum Peatmoss, Coco, Leaf-mold, Etc.
1 Part Aeration material like lava rock, pumice, perlite, rice hulls etc.
1 Part Vermicompost or plain compost.
The recipe that I prefer is a little more complicated and is as follows.
40% Sphagnum Peat Moss
25% Vermicompost
20% Pumice
15% Par Boiled Rice Hulls
You’ll notice that if you combine the rice hulls and pumice it’s basically a 1:1:1 mix with just a
little less vermicompost as I like to top-dress with more.
Step #2: Adding The Minerals & Nutrients:
Consider each ingredient and why it’s being added. Also consider that many organic approved
products just aren’t as good as others. The top ingredients that are popular that most organic
growers avoid are as follows: Blood meal, bone meal, guano, soy, cotton, corn and many other
soil conditioners that come from potential GMO crops etc.
A brief explanation of using Cubic Feet as a measurement: Most soil companies sell their soil
by the Cubic Foot as do we. But there is a big difference between what constitutes a Cubic Foot.
When looking up the Volume for a “DRY” cubic foot in gallons you’ll find 6.4285 gallons. But
when looking up the “Liquid” volume for a Cubic Foot you’ll find 7.4805 gallons. Well you
won’t be surprised to find that most home gardeners use 7.5 gallons as a cubic foot but most soil
companies use 6.4285 gallons per cubic foot. This will explain why you have less soil in some
bags than others from two different companies. To be clear, we use 7.5 Gallons at BuildASoil.
com for all of our soil bagging and measurements for addition of amendments.
Here is a recipe that has been proven with soil testing at labs to have a very ideal ratio of
nutrients and minerals.
1/2 Cup per cubic foot the following:

  • Neem Cake and/or Karanja Cake (NPK, Micro Nutrients and reported Bug Defense all in one)
  • Kelp Meal (NPK, Micro Nutrients, Growth Hormones and many other benefits)
  • Crustacean Meal (Crab and/or Shrimp Meal) (Calcium, Nitrogen and Chitin along with other
    benefits)
    4 Cups per cubic foot of a mineral mix:
    1 Cups Glacial Rock Dust (diverse assortment of minerals)
    1 Cup Gypsum (Calcium and Sulfur)
    1 Cup Oyster Shell Flour (Very available Calcium to help buffer PH of the Peatmoss)
    1 Cup Basalt (Paramagnetic Rock Dust from lava flow that is high in micronutrients)
    The Nutrients added above cover all the NPK and all the micronutrients and I could explain why
    each ingredient is added all day long, but I encourage you to do your own research.
    Now let’s say that you had access to a range of Fertilizer amendments to use, which ones should
    you choose? I like to choose the best product and also the most economical. For instance Guano
    is really expensive and typically only brings one or two things to the table. Where as Kelp Meal
    is fairly affordable and brings every nutrient and micronutrient with it along with growth
    hormones and other secondary benefits. Would it be better to eat Red meat all day long or maybe
    a little fish protein with some vegetable protein? Same for your soil! No need to get all crazy
    with Blood meal when we can use, Crustacean, Neem, Fish etc. and all of the ingredients I just
    mentioned bring tons of secondary benefits where as the Blood Meal only brings Nitrogen and
    some salt.
    Note: If you only have access to Blood Meal, you will be fine and can totally use it, I’m not
    trying to get on a high horse and look down on people that use these ingredients. I’m only hoping
    to give reasons to look for better ingredients when those choices are available and providing
    some reasons for those that want them. All in all, I’d rather see a Blood, Bone and Guano Mix
    over a synthetic nutrient grow all day long… but if you start looking into the environmental
    impact of some of the ingredients we use you’ll quickly consider making your own soil from
    totally local ingredients and once you have an idea how well this recipe performs you can start
    tweaking it to use what is available in your region.
    Some Recommendations for custom soil building:
    MORE isn’t always better. Consider the Kelp, Crustacean and Neem Fertilizers that I recently
    recommended. Suppose a hypothetical situation where they all take exactly 6 months to be
    completely broken down in the soil and offer little to no benefit to the plant any longer. Well,
    adding twice the amount will still lead to a depletion in 6 months… it’s not like having twice the
    kelp will last twice as long, much better to top dress some a little later or incorporate into teas.
    Most soil recipes have a total of 1.5 - 3 cups of Total fertilizers added per cubic foot of Mix. I
    like to keep things really minimal knowing I can always add more later and topdressing is so easy
    when you pre-mix with vermicompost. No worry about burning. The other reason I like to add
    small amounts of simple ingredients is because it allows you to diversify the soil with ingredients
    you haven’t added later on. For instance, my recipe doesn’t call for Alfalfa, but I love the stuff
    and make tea’s with it all the time, no reason to have it in the soil and in the tea. But if you never
    want to brew teas you could always top dress. It’s up to you.
    Take it to the next level with Home made Vermicompost and you’ll have a soil better than 99%
    of the growers out there. Here is an excellent recipe from the guy who really got my brain
    thinking, Clackamas Coots:
    “This is the compost that I started with:
    • 1 c.y. organic barley straw
    • 12 lbs. basalt rock dust
    • 2 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey as the Nitrogen source
    • 5 c.f. pumice (1/4" size)
    When the material ramped back down to 100F or so I added the following:
    3 lbs. kelp meal 3 lbs. a neem / karanja meal mix that I had made because I was bored -
    obviously 1 lb. organic alfalfa meal 1 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey leaves 1 c.f. roughly
    chopped mint mix - Peppermint, Spearmint, Thyme, Cilantro, Holy Basil (Tulsi) and chopped
    Rosemary 3 lbs. organic fish meal 3 lbs. crustacean meal
    I loaded this into #150 SmartPot and dumped about 3 gallons of worms that I harvested from
    other set-ups also using SmartPots. Basically 3 gallons is somewhere around 10 - 11 lbs. of
    worms. I covered this with barley straw to reduce evaporation in the bedding material.
    A year later I harvested over 28 lbs. of worms, thousands and thousands of cocoons (using a 1/8"
    screen which will capture the cocoons) and this specific batch of vermicompost is what I’m
    currently using.
    It’s all about patience - it takes time to create premium humus.
    Dat’s it!
    CC
    Then just mix it up as such:
    1/3 Humus 1/3 SPM or Leaf Mold 1/3 Aeration (Rice hulls/Pumice/Lava Rock)
    A bit of time and effort is required at the front end for sure. After that’s done, just add water.”
    Mixing the soil together: Recipe for about 18 Cubic Feet of soil or 135 Gallons.
    I like to use a big tarp when making soil by hand.
    (1) 3.8 Cubic Foot Bale of Sphagnum Peat moss will expand to about 6 cubic feet when opened
    up. That means that you could make about 15-18 cubic feet of soil with one 3.8 cubic foot bale of
    peatmoss depending on your final percentages.
    I like to break up the peat moss into a flat thick layer on the tarp and then dump the castings on
    top of that. Then dump all the minerals and fertilizers on top of that followed by your aeration
    amendments and mix thoroughly. Every once in awhile I take the edge of the tarp and flip the
    soil back to the middle and keep mixing… sometimes I move the soil from the left side of the
    tarp over to the right side of the tarp and then back to the middle just to make sure it’s all mixed
    well. All in all, don’t get to freaked out about things being mixed exact because it’s all organic
    and very forgiving.
    Once your soil is mixed up, you can plant immediately into it and add a compost tea to kick start
    the process. With that being said, it always works a little better if you let the soil sit in a big pile
    to homogenize or “Cook.” Without the use of Bloods, Bones and Guano’s it shouldn’t burn any
    plants but will be ready to use faster with the pre-digestion of the nutrients in the soil. When
    making soil in big piles above 200 gallons things heat up really fast and will need to be turned
    every couple days until the heating stops and you are then ready to use the soil.
    I hope this short and simple home made soil tutorial can help you make your own soil, because
    once you do, you’ll never go back to bagged soil ever again.
    If you have any questions I can be reached at Jeremy@BuildASoil.com
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Wait is dewb jeremy??

And sick write up. I love coots recipe and use it all the time. A little tweaked though!

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Some great products over there at BAS! I like their 12 seed blend for cover crops!

This recipe is the basis of the mix I use! No deficiencies to date following these guide lines and amendments! I just need to work on my light situation for indoors!

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I wish i lived in the us so i coukd use them

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i am not jeremy… sorry to disappoint

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No disappointment at all, thanks for the recipe bro!

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A person here locally simply repackaged BAS mix uses a few local ingredients, like the minerals and calls it his own. I’ve gotten some mixed feedback from growers that use it. It tends to fade a little too early for some of the hungrier cultivars especially when its suggested as water only soil.

I haven’t come to any real conclusion on BAS soil, but I guess there is some tweaking when you run this mix as it would be somewhat simplified so most people are happy.

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Hey @GrowerGoneWild, the way you explain things it´s very easy to understand for someone as new as me in the whole works, also your experience goes beyond my wildest dreams and lastly, it’s so nice to see you active in here once again. I know you said you’ve been busy!

Cheers!

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Its weird that jeremy says its water only when its the coot mix and coot says he uses teas on itXD

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Love that it’s only two simple steps!
Step one: Make your own custom vermicompost
Step two: Mix with peat, pumice, neem, glacial rock dust, basalt, gypsum, crab and oyster shells.

Lmao… Reminds me of the underpants gnomes, seems like we’re glossing over a couple steps here.

Honestly do love the coot mix except neem meal sketches me out because the plants are still growing in it the day of harvest.
If it’s systemic, how can the buds not contain some trace of the toxins?

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

And how long does it take to gather all ingredients and places to go to get the stuff, or in my case; make the stuff cos’ there ain’t any of those things here…

But i see your point, for sure!

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This is only a problem with people spraying neem on flowers. When using it in your soil and as a tea you have no worries of this. Especially in a coot mix where there isnt a ton of neem.

You could find rock dusts at any place that deals with stone countertops. Your local hardware store should be able to get big bags of garden gypsum in. Crab shell, kelp, osyter shell, barley etc at a feed store. I havnt seen a place that doesnt sell peat moss yet. Especially if they sell roots soil.

Worst thing that can happen is you order from ebay. People will ship you a cup or two of rock dust or whatever to anywhrre in the world. Just make sure its good quality:)

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Little by little brother @lotus710! Patience grasshopper! I will get there.

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I might be missing something.
Because neem is systemic, the neem meal in the soil is absorbed by the plant and deters bugs who eat stems, buds, leaves.
So if the toxins are distributed thru the living plant tissues, how do we then conclude our buds are clean of these substances?

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My guess would be that the plant “digest it” somehow… Has anybody looked into that yet? Interesting @Worcestershire_Farms.

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If this is true then i wouldnt of gotten thrips right?

If you are worried about neem you can get tests done. But i never hear people worrying like that about using deadly chemicals on their plantsXD hahahah

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That’s a damn good point. Maybe neem as a systemic pesticide is more marketing than real world trial.

My issue is, if neem meal is systemic like it’s often claimed, and a plant is growing in it up until the day of harvest, maybe people should worry. Have you seen the studies with small mammals with neem in their diet? It’s worth a read. I’ll get the link

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Yes i actually seen that. Ive also heard about coot eating neem to proove to people its fine. In canada were not allowed to use neem on a gardens. Buuuut miracle grow is fineXD

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I agree with Coots application of teas.

The hypothesis is that the water soluble nutrition like nitrates makes it into solution as well as useful aerobic bacteria into the rhizosphere.

Bacteria tends to have little motion with no real direction but in a waterborne solution that is aerated and agitated digestion is greatly accelerated.

For the most part I am lazy and I like topdressing but the teas I use in any organic system. Additionally, teas almost have curative properties in troubled clones or seedlings from what I have observed.

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