I have never had my eyes burn from it. It will be interesting to see how the plants take it. Good luck and keep us informed. 
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i had my eyes watering one time i was spraying method 1, cleared my sinuses real good too like vaporub. i’ve used cinnamon to kill thrips, have never fought mites (knock on wood) so i’m not sure, but for thrips i heated up a cup or 2 of water, mixed in a tablespoon of cinnamon and let it sit overnight, then drained the liquid in to another container leaving the cinnamon behind. used a coffee filter to strain the liquid in to another container, and then strained that again thru another coffee filter then mixed the resulting liquid with an equal part of plain water and sprayed. let sit for 10-15 minutes then sprayed carbonated seltzer water to wash the plants off.
i’ve also heard of people just sprinkling or dusting cinnamon powder on their soil and leaves
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I stumbled on Cinnamon Oil here: http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/199905g.html
Cinnamite: A New Insecticide/Miticide
May 26, 1999
Cinnamite is a new insecticide/miticide labeled for greenhouse use from Mycotech Corporation. Derived from cinnamon oil, the active ingredient is cinnamaldehyde (30%). Cinnamite is labeled for use against mites and aphids, as well as powdery mildew. It is registered for use on a wide range of crops, including herbs. It has a 4-hour restricted-entry interval (REI). The material is effective against all stages of mites, including eggs, and it has demonstrated efficacy on green peach and melon aphid. The labeled rate for mites and aphids is 85 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of water. Cinnamite works by contact action only, so proper coverage of all plant parts is essential for control. It is fast acting and has short residual activity, which allows plants to be sprayed before shipping. The material has the added benefit of leaving the greenhouse smelling like cinnamon after use.
I like the idea of adding it to the top of soil. I can’t see any harm in it as I’ve used it in the flower garden to keep larger pests away in the past.
The top of my soil(less) mix has eroded, and I’ve got a bunch of root exposed. Normally I’d just use more mix but I’m worried my brand new big bag of Sunshine is contaminated. I might just grab some hydroton at the grow shop tomorrow to put a protective layer over it.
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do you have a tech for making the cinnamite or oil? i think a good IPM system is invaluable … i never thought it was necessary until i got thrips then spent weeks and weeks trying to eradicate them with multiple defoliations (almost every leaf…) and various treatments. thrips reproduce on their own so you need to get every single one. it was such a bitch trying to deal with it having over-vegged plants and a full canopy. i was even spraying method 1 pps into week 3 and 4 of flower (says until day of harvest on bottle) but it’ll always be weekly preventative from here on out. much easier than waiting until there’s a problem cause sometimes you don’t notice until it’s already out of hand
i put 2 inches or so of perlite on top of my coco hoping the perlite dust would act like DE and cut the thrips up and prevent FG from laying eggs. don’t think it worked lol.
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While I don’t have a tech, I have a press, the proper micron screens, and a Witch Doctor who says they can make it and have made it in the past so I’m hoping I can get a big potent batch 
I think having anything on top of your soil to give it some protection is a good thing. It’s why mulch does such a good job and has so many effects in the outdoor garden. I’ve never used Hydroton for a top layer before mainly because I’m a cheapo but it’s another one of those things that seems like it could have a lot of uses even in a soil(less) grow.
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ya i meant tech like technique, method or process
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She tells me it’s just a matter of using a small amount of base oil like olive oil and adding ground cinnamon, making a paste, heat and stir, strain it through a coffee filter then store it for a couple days, then press it through two coffee filters or a fine micron screen and you’re left with mostly pure oil. I’m sure practice and all that plays a big part. Closest thing I’ve come to that kind of stuff is making BHO 
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Steinernema feltiae, an insect parasitic nematode, has been used extensively for fungus gnat control for many years. S. feltiae is a microscopic, non-segmented roundworm that seeks out and enters fungus gnat larvae through natural body openings like the mouth or anus. S. feltiae uses carbon dioxide, movement and vibrations to locate larvae. Once inside, the nematodes release symbiotic bacteria that quickly kill targeted insects. Reproduction inside the insect releases new generations of infective juvenile nematodes that disperse in search of further prey.
S. feltiae can be used as a stand-alone control option, in combination with other BCAs such as Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis, Hypoaspis aculeifer, H. miles and Atheta coriaria, or in rotation with conventional insecticides. Rotation with conventional insecticides affords the opportunity to greatly reduce the number of chemical applications needed for acceptable levels of pest control, reducing the likelihood that pests will develop pesticide resistance.
Nasty little creatures. Your friends.
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enters fungus gnat larvae through natural body openings like the mouth or anus.
No sleep for me tonight, thanks.
It seems like predatory organisms are the best way to fight pests. Too bad this kind of stuff is near impossible to get here. I made an inquiry about getting some predatory mites but the only place that seems to have them is half a country away and they can’t ship to me.
Ladybeetles were really bad here this year, even in the winter I still have a ton in the upstairs of my house. Thinking about trying to wrangle some up and release them in my room. You know it’s serious when I’m considering something like that, or maybe I’m just stoned.
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I am sorry Lucy, that wasn’t a very nice bedtime story was it?
Here, think of a nice day on a beautiful lake.
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I’m thinking of all the bugs, good and bad, on all the trees in that picture.
I need a vacation, but then who will tend the garden?
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If you have a compost pile, some of these critters may form naturally.
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No, but I will this summer for sure, I plan on going a little bigger on the outdoor garden this year and I want to try to keep it organic so I’ll be back here for tips on that 
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Ok, you can take a quick spin around Key West then.
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i started doing that, catching all the ladybeetles i saw in my house and releasing them in the tent. i’m not sure if it helped or not but i’d like to think it did. those asian ladybeetles have voracious appetites, enabling them to out compete and even consume other ladybeetles. they are “also highly resistant to diseases that affect other ladybird species, and carries a microsporidian parasite to which it is immune, but that can infect and kill other species”
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Dude I was trying to ease @Lucy247420 out of some bug nightmares. LOL
99%
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fun fact - spinosad works well for killing head lice if you have children
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Start your pile this winter with leaves and vegetable cuttings. You can toss dead root balls in from your grow to add lots of good materials quickly.
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What a lucky shot, or in the case of the bug, unlucky.
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