Gotta flush when growing hydroponics tho.
It’s the difference between smoking smooth, white-ash smoke with no crackling that doesn’t burn too fast or go out… and smoking a wet charcoal briquette.
Haha was he talkin about flushing in dirt lol i always flush but run hydro so i def know the difference thats why i asked why he said it was a myth theres def a huge differenvece between flush an unflushed
I’m talking about flushing soil by pouring copious amounts of water through it. Stoner science IMO.
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Aight i can understand that lol
What about flushing agents?
I bought some PGR = "Superbud Reborn " it was advertised as a new version of an older, banned PGR. It’s supposed to slow the stretch and ‘bloom aggressively’ and makes buds hard as fk… but after I bought it (circa 2012’ ) i read it was the same banned shit… - just re-branded ! So I’ve still got it , probably won’t use it, though I might sacrifice a cutting and see if there is any difference…
Good night
Gaz
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I used gravity when it came out… it does make buds rock hard but from what I could tell it will not flush out, makes the buds burn like shut as well. Used it one cycle and never used it again…
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GA3 is a PGR… i use it for germinating seeds
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I am looking for some sort of PGR that promotes vegetative growth specifically for reveging plants that I would want to turn into mothers.
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Alfalfa is pretty high in triacontanol. You can put a cup of alfalfa meal in a 5-gallon bucket and let it soak for 12-24 hours. Be careful if can burn young or sensitive plants.
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Thankyou very much @ReikoX this is exactly what I was after. 
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Good call, I had never heard of these things and now I will make sure to not go near them…
Afraid I have to disagree here Over the last 30 years I have flushed, and I have not flushed, and in my experience it does not make the difference you say if you cure your weed properly.
The worst weed I have smoked was from my early days when I just put plants in compost and watered them (no feeds) which was like giving them a 6 week flush. That weed did not burn from the lack of elements inside it to combust properly, phosphorous for example.
That weed went black, would not stay lit, and left black charcoal instead of ash. When I upped (started) my feeds, it smoked OK.
My opinion is that when you flush in hydro you are actually doing a partial light cure, which makes the difference you detect.
I have given some of my unflushed (but cured) weed to people who flush (and say the same as you that flushing is important and they did a 3 week flush) and when smoked side by side they rated my unflushed (but cured) weed as better quality than their flushed weed. They even asked me what I did to my weed to make it better than theirs ( we grow the same clone) as they wanted the quality I was getting…
This article is interesting and makes some good points. To flush or not to flush
Also this one
If you find any articles that even slightly question the effectiveness of flushing, hydro or soil, then you will be looking at an article that does not find that flushing does what is claimed.
Just my opinion…
might start a thread to see what other peeps think.
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Post a photo of your cannabis smoking in a joint. I’d like to see the ash color.
Here’s mine after a proper flush:
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Will do but these days a blunt does me in and ends the day, so it will be sunday (tomorrow) 
If you want to see a pic of a spliff that burns well by itself and does not need lighting, and does not smoke like
then I can assure you this will be the case.
Hell, even the stuff that is only just on the dry side of alive after just being hung for four days would do that but it would be a harsher smoke from the lack of curing. But for apples to apples, I will roll one from weed that has had the chlorophyll cured away, which IMHO is what happens when people ‘flush’, they actually do a partial light cure to remove chlorophyll. This would give a smoother smoke without further curing but at the cost of yield, some would argue strength. Might even roll 2 so you can see that only just dry, non flushed weed still smokes fine without needing to be relit because it has the correct elements in it for combustion.
Obviously none of these will have any of the demon weed inside (tobacco)
To be clear, I am not saying that ‘flushing’ does not produce smoother weed, it is plain from your image that your weed smokes very well and this is also the case in my experience, what I am saying is that a proper cure will produce the same smoothness without ‘flushing’ because that is all that is happening (chlorophyll reduction as part of curing) except the plant is alive when it happens.
Still, the plants have clean roots when they get chopped
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I will trust this is the case with your style of growing.
But for me (and all the hydro growers I know) , the flush is 100% required. I’ve done much experimentation.
I’m curious what you think the benefits of feeding salts in the last 2 weeks of flower are?
I grow hydro and never flush but I do keep the EC low for the whole grow.
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I believe you. 
All my experimentation has been done within 1-2 months of harvest, so my results may not be as accurate as I think.
I want it to smoke perfectly. Like the finest Canadian tobacco cigarette. Even when it’s so fresh that the stems are still green. Every bud. For this result in my system, I NEED a 10+ day flush.
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Yup I added a pgr snow I believe it was called to a plant I’d grown before. Ruined the plant buds got bigger but lost it’s smell and got dark. Never used the product again.
I have heard of PGRs from alfalfa which is said to be fine for cannabis/human consumption
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Most pg.r that would be useful for Cannabis are paclobutrazol or Cycocell based products , essentially they stop the stretch of your plants as they are moved to a 12/12 Cycle generally ethylene gas slowly gets released as it is released as the plant adjusts to the dark Cycle the shoots elongate , What these PGR’s do it send a signal to the plant to dump ethylene really quickly , the reason besides toxic residue this reduces quality is it generally shortens the flowering Cycle as much as 14-17 Days however many active ingredients and terpenes are developing slowly in the early periods of flowering , this rush of ethylene is also why the buds are harder and rounder .
The first PGR we saw hit the market in the early days was called Bonsai it was not marketed towards Cannabis but some growers figured out its action Bonsai is a OZ product , so when Dutch Master came to Canada they introduced super Bud which was (is?) a paclobutrazol based product a Bonsai knock off .
A short time later there was a two part competitor can’t recall the name but it was a Cycocell based PGR that had essentially the same action .
This stuff is still widely used by some commercially minded producers in BC some use just a tiny bit they want crops off in 7-8 weeks max
Stay away from this crap if anyone is really interested I have a list of a whole bunch of trade names for PGR’s that are used in the cut flower business that all contain this type of PGR there is an 3 rd newer PGR I can’t recall what its called now but its the same old idea has the same action .
As for a great veg booster Spray nitrozyme and soluble kelp products that contain it and you will see amazing growth in vegetive cycle !
Peace and Love From Jamaica
PB
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