I need one of these.
My dad tried to teach me how to sharpen a knife, but try as I might, I just can’t seem to get a blade to that hair-popping scary sharp finish.
I have an old Arkansas whetstone that I inherited from him, and it is all he ever used. Not sure why I can’t get it right, though I can get it sharp enough to glide through paper…
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I used to just sharpen on a bench grinder or belt sander then a hone. Now I just want to get one of those.
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I hear ya @Hippiechik . It’s an issue of maintaining exactly the same angle, reason why I went with a belt and the T level. There are cheap attachable plastic guides you can attach to the blade to maintain that angle you want when using whetstones. I do 15 degrees on fine Japanese steel, 25 degrees on my pocket knife.
I’ve been thru dozens of pocket knives and have found no better knife than this Ganzo. I actually have one tucked away in a box as a reserve in case I drop it somewhere on the farm. S/S bearings, the blade flips open faster than a switchblade with the flick of your index finger. Is very fine, hard D2 steel. Price is a “steel” for the quality. Amazon.com
I’m into fine Japanese steel too. Bought a Yaxell kitchen knife set “cheap” few years ago. It makes working in the kitchen so nice. I use the long Dragon Fire slicer to slice bacon slabs, pork belly that I marinate and smoke.
Yaxell Ran, damacus steel, super hard with a Rockwell hardness of 63. Sold my Wursthof set to a sous chef.
Girlfriend had a bunch of cheapies, bought her a Shun paring knife. She loves it.
Best prices and service on everything kitchen including knife sharpeners, stones, etc.
Sorry for going off topic!
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I have a couple of Victorinox 6” curved semi flex that I use when I am butchering and processing meat. Really need to get a good but affordable diamond hone or butchers steel, got any suggestions?
Dad was a WW2 veteran and kept his stuff on a high shelf. This knife was one of his most prized possessions. I didn’t even know of its existence until I was about 30, and even then he would not let me touch it. 
This thing was scary sharp.
I ought to send you my Buck pocket knife and see what you can do with it.
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A diamond hone will give you a much better edge, but usually a 2 or 3 step process compared to the steel.
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Beautiful knife and leather. BUT, compared to the oldies the quality of steel these days is so much better. You might just want to put it/them into a nice display case. For starts, if you do plan to use it you’ll need to put on a new edge with an angle you can remember in the future. That angle should be maintained for the best sharpness. Depends on the spline thickness as to the angle I’d choose. Probably 20*?
For a daily knife you really can’t beat the VERY high quality and low price of the Ganza knife I linked you to. I use mine dozens of times a day and don’t need to sharpen it but about once every 2 weeks. It’s a good self protection knife too, well balanced in the hand, easy to grip. It’s easy to find the open lever knob while it’s in your pocket/purse, gripped in your hand. As you pull it out the light flick of the index finger opens the blade into a locked position with lightning speed. Has a nice belt clip that can be removed with a T6 bit.
Wish I had gotten orange as I have a tendency to use it and then drop it in place somewhere.
Sharpeners - Knife Sharpeners | Cutlery and More
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hey OUB, how do you feel about DIY “seedling starter mixes”? I grow on a buddy’s property and I’m having a hard time seeing his old lady letting me cook dirt in her oven 
Most websites suggest some variation of a mix of coco coir, perlite and vermiculite and say that’d be suitably sterile. I’d probably mix in some dry ferts like osmocote or an espoma product to help them along, as per your recommendations, and up-pot into regular soil as soon as they fill out their starting containers. I like the idea of it being sterile and easy to store for the future, but I’m curious if there are any downsides I’m not thinking of. I’ve never worked with soilless mixes before
oh, and I’d be sowing the seeds right in the mix, after a 12-24hr soak
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I 
% agree with this.
If I dig a 2 foot hole, I make sure the next 2 feet around and below have been chopped up and made to a loose soil.
I never used to, untill I started pulling the roots out after harvest, and noticed the roots stopped spreading exactly where the back end of my shovels scoops hit.
The holes I made basically acted just as if I had placed a pot in the ground, because the roots didn’t grow outside them.
And I will probably try the vermiculite next time. I have always mixed perlite into my coco, but I might just add both in now. The verm might actually hold moisture in a bit more, and perlite will add more air to the soil for the roots. Might be a great mix, I don’t know why I’ve never thought of using both before lol
And that was a gorgeous looking Sativa btw 
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I’m curious as to what @OldUncleBen has to say, but for me I keep my seed start mixes pretty simple.
I purchase a big bag of seed start premix that is basically just a mix of vermiculite and peat moss. I use this as a base.
I then add in nitrogen from worm castings, and perlite as the pre mix is very dense a compact when watered without it.
I also add in MYKOS Mycorrhizal if I have it.
But not necessary at this stage as I add it to my up pot coco mix later.
I stir it all up with a stick after I’ve added a good amount of water as it makes it really nice and fluffy instead of like a thick matted soil.
But thats it.
I soak seeds overnight, then place in a mini worm cast bin till they pop, and then plant them with the shell sticking out above the soil line. I just bury the root.
Water a bit and place a bag over top. I usually don’t have to water for the next two weeks, and it keeps the humidity high.
I havnt read the above statements about sterilization, but if anything maybe I would just pasteurize the soil mix.
Sterilization will allow anything that hits the soil to have a chance at taking hold of the soil, and may cause issues.
Pasteurizing should allow for some of the soil to keep some healthy beneficial biology inside that can combat against any other newly introduced mold or fungus spores if they land in the soil.
(So don’t do either if you add Mykos or worm castings)
For instance I wouldn’t sterilize worm castings, because they contain healthy bacteria that actually will help the soil to live and feed your roots.
If you sterilize it, then it will kill off any and all bacteria in the substrate allowing other, non beneficial bacteria to get a foothold if it is introduced.
Just what Ive leaned while practicing mycology.
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I plant seeds in Promix.
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direct sow after a soak, or do you sprout them first?
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Direct sow no soak no accoutrement just straight into Promix.
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I hate that no stores near me sell Pro-Mix.
I even tried to get several shops to carry it.
I have been wanting to use it since I first saw it. Expessially after they started adding Mycorrhizal to a mix.
But I just can’t afford to have 50 lb bags of dirt shipped to my door lol
And I would probably need at least 10…
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If you’re in the states order Berger’s BM7 from A.M. Leonard when they have a free shipping promo. Get on their email list. Crazy but I got a 3 cu. ft. bag recently for $19 and I see the price has jacked up to $63. WTF?
When it comes to seed germination mix, I don’t over think this, don’t use any special stuff, no need to. Just have some clean, sanitized soil without any big chunks of pine bark fines/mulch and let 'er rip. Sow your seeds no more than 1/2" deep, firm the soil over them with your finger. This aids in the cap coming off.
UB
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I figured it out, now that’s it’s gardening time for most of the U.S., A.M. Leonard is taking advantage of the interest and is doubling their prices. Best stockpile this stuff in the winter when it’s “dirt” cheap.
UB
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Some fancy french words you got there 
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Oui Oui seńor
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