The main reason I’ve got to a majority of 11hours lights on is because of the reading I have done from a few different breeders at this point. Now its really anecdotal but in my mind does make sense. At 11 hours you would in theory find a more sativa expression of the plant you’re growing. Which is the reason I’ve been doing what I’m doing. granted I’ve also been doing nothing but open pollination F2 runs and not going for “premium smoke” or anything like that. Most of my seed chafe and trim are going to edibles and topicals and also saving money on electricity as well even if it is only a few $ every month.
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I mean ya but a more red spectrum is typically expressed in the fall and a blue in the spring and why before led it was metal halide for veg and hps for flower, even if u only run the reds in the most crucial ( in my opinion) 5th and 6th weeks
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I don’t even care what breeder “times” say. I let the plant tell me when it’s ready. I’ve seen too many people take plants all too early because the breeder “said”.
I don’t pay too much attention to the trichomes, I wait until the pistils recede, wait another couple days, then down they come irregardless of what the trichomes look like.
Breeder times IMO are just a sales tactic, very rarely do any of my plants finish in the so called breeder schedule, I only use it as a guide as to start keeping an eye on the pistils receding.
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i have a sour ripper from ripper seeds at f62. breeder time is 65 to 70. at f60 it looked ready. i’m still waiting for f65 in case it does something cool, but i might just we waiting for nothing. it seems odd it would go both ways…shorter or longer. longer makes sense.
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I imagine you are assuming a kind of uniformity that doesn’t exist from this breeder.
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5 days is a pretty short window. i have had pretty good uniformity in the past with some breeders. years ago i ran this one pack of seeds for 5 cycles. every one had the same cut time…it was fantastic. like clockwork. so, i would say i have seen low variance, but i have also had a 65 and a 78 or something similar in a bunch of packs. i just expect error to go in one direction. i also have some stuff from twenty20 that looks like it’s ready before the suggested window…it’s f2 so i figured its just very unstable.
Nice pictures 
Good point as it is truly only a guide line for choppy choppy time! 
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LOL! I took one of those purple punches to 100 days once, still was pretty clear. It was seriously couchy though.
exactly. there is something off in the way we describe when to chop. it might not be the cloudyness that we need to use…i wish this was more concrete.
It’s not about cloudiness.
I rarely take out my microscope or any other visual enhancement tool when deciding when it’s time for the chop.
I base myself off of the look of the plant, mainly the buds and their hairs, and the “brilliance” of buds. They need to be past their most brilliant in looks for sure to be on their way to chop. It’s also highly strain dependent and highly personal flavour dependent.
My needs dictate the more Sativa in the effect, the later I chop.
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Colder temps speed this process up a bit
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Not because it’s further away, but because it’s at a lower angle in the sky and must penetrate more atmosphere. This also accounts for the shift to red.
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the orbital shape of the sun and eRth mskes me ponder about this angular thing
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Earth is furthest from the sun in June, for what it’s worth. So, the light would be lowest in the winter of the Southern hemisphere. In the Northern hemisphere, the reduction in winter light is due to its angle.
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The earth is also on a slanted axis, in summer in northern hemisphere, the northern hemisphere is tilted towards the sun, giving sunlight a straighter shot through the atmosphere, wich is responsible for the seasons
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