What's the best way to connect parallel strips to the driver?

Growroom Design
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So, when you have a lot of strips to connect back to the driver what’s the best approach for this? Instead of a big ass wad of wire with wire nuts how about a termination block then from the block to the driver. Anybody have any examples of a clean and safe install?

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I used a barrier strip, stacked wires up in spade connectors and soldered after crimping. Mounted the barrier strip in a plastic project box on the light. For ‘shits & giggles’ I sleeved in paracord and dressed the harness with waxed lacing cord. I can’t add a link because of the device I’m using but it’s documented in the cheap led thread.

Cheers
G

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Found it.

If you are thinking of DYI check out the rest of the thread, lots of great input there.

Cheers
G

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Thanks! You built your frame like I did except I used flat bar vs angle aluminum. With aluminum being so dam expensive I was wondering about not using a heat sink and just run things at 50%. Seems like lots of people have had good success of no heat sinks and running them “Soft”. What’s your experience? I have 18 strips that have a total cap of 60W but I was going to run them at 30ish watts on a wooden frame.

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Your instincts are on point!
The light is seldom used at 50% power. (playing with the height can increase intensity too) and as such does not generate much heat. I was thinking about building another … out of wood… :laughing: :vulcan_salute:

I know, heresy… right? Not really, the Bridgelux strips are a single line of LEDs so it only generates about ambient + 10C and the max operating temp is 85C so call it 50C headroom.

Sorry, I was responsible for the thermal design at a power electronics manufacturer. (…I know, …I talk funny… :wink:)

Cheers
G

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What’s your opinion on running strips,in parallel, that have a slight differential in voltage as long as you use a CC and CV driver? I have 18 strips that run at 48V but found some others at a good deal but they are 46V. Some seem to indicate the 46v will pull such more current, lower resistance, that it can cause issues up to a potential runaway as they heat up. Supposed the bridgelux charts show a 1 degree increase in temp doubles the current. I find that questionable and interesting.

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I had planned on using only a terminal strips but ended up using a combination terminal strips and wagos.

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OK, these are current, not voltage devices so the drivers regulate the current and float the voltage. It’s a weird distinction, but it makes sense when you get familiar with it.

So with a parallel setup I’d stick with all the same type.
In a series (or parallel/series) you would have an opportunity to combine different strips in the strings (but the current specs must match) but that can get complicated. It is better to match them up in common groups in different lights, it’s just simpler…

The efficiency drops with higher currents too.
The thing with LEDs is to keep them cool, below 50C (IIRC, Bridgelux has ‘updated’ their specs and removed the temperature/lifetime chart…) at least the one I checked this morning… But that’s a relatively easy parameter to hit. Then you are looking at the 50,000 hr. life of the chip itself… Except they define the life as when the device drops to 80% output… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
See how long that is for say a 12/12 flower tent light running 365 … :+1:

That spec sounds weird but it is important for designers. For us we just goose it up a little more, but eventually the efficiency will suck enough your children might notice…

Cheers
G

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