What a beauty of a project.
Sending nothing but Positive nrg at those Beans !!
I’m grabbing a chair @FieldEffect
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You deserve all the good things that come your way 
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Thanks for all the positivity guys 
Tonight may puff some of @ColeLennon 's IBG and try to use the LITFA next few weeks 
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I know how hard LIFTA is. 
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Interesting see your journey on growing organic brother. I too hope to move in that direction sometime. Nice lineup you got going and it’s nice to see you’re growing blueberry for the kids. Btw, those pumpkin cotyledons are massive! 
Wishing you the best for this run…
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Kudos to all the projects you’ve in motion @FieldEffect. It’s a no-brainer your gonna have a great summer.
Next germination of mine is going to be some of that low running Thyme.
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Mostly been keeping my LITFA in check over here.
Here’s the status this evening:
I’ve got 3 each of the 907 (top row) and IBG (middle row) starting life a little rough and tough. 2 Panalawis (bottom row) are looking eager to get outside. The pumpkins seem happy campers. They’re 3" jiffy pots for scale on those seed leaves. 2 days of LITFA seems to be working. Heat mat back on, dome off, no more fuckery from me until there HAS to be.
I’ve got some more popping to guarantee some females of each 907 and IBG. 3 more IBG and 4 more 907. The 907s seem to have a little less rigor than the IBG, so being extra safe there. I’ve got a 10-pack of sex tests so I’ll do the nicest ones, and if I run out, I run out and I guess I go the old fashioned way. Thank goodness I bought too many seeds.
@iceman I shoulda taken some pics of the blueberrys (fruits not weed), they’re loving the soil mix. They’re taking off, I’ve been trimming off flower clusters each evening. I read to keep them from fruiting 1st summer until they are well established, and next year will be worth the sacrifice this season. Basically a 1 year veg time on those things. Thanks for the well wishes!
@MissinBissin thanks for checking in buddy! That LITFA is a tough pill to swallow. Can’t wait to blaze some Panalawi. But tonight, you may have guessed already, it’s the IBG from @ColeLennon
Love all you guys on OG. I checked my phone on the toilet at work today shocked to see all the activity when I logged in. 4/20 is a crazy day here 
Appreciate all the support and advice, shocking generosity and just honest, good people.
Happy holiday!
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They are all taking off. Especially those pumpkins. I’m kinda of hooked on PHK right now. I’m glad I’m running these purple queens.
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I love a heavy indica, I’m assuming what the PHK is like and the Purple Queens seem like a variant of the same.
I’d love me a heavy pumpkin this halloween as well, those things came out of dirt swinging 
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I’m outta likes since a long time brother! 
That’s a very long veg time for the blueberry but the science behind it makes sense. Anything is worth it for the kids! The joys of being a parent…
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I like the PHK for it’s full bodied heavy indica but it doesn’t couch lock me. It’s similar to Bubba Kush which I love also.
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Soil test is back! Whoa. So, we’ve established that the DIY test appears to be accurate for several factors there. Low N, P & K high, pH high.
First of all, was it a mistake sifting the soil before sending it? They said to sift out the bigger pieces. Perhaps tomorrow I’ll do some experimenting.
So, before I do wild speculation, what’s the advice? I need N, and I expected my micronutrients to be a little better than they are. Is there anything I need to do about the sodium levels that are high?
What I have: About a yard of soil that needs help. I’ve got a fresh 30lb bag, and about 10lb leftover EWC (they’re the Wiggle Worm Brand 1-0-0). I’ve got about 1.5 lbs of Roots Organic Terp Tea “Grow” leftover from last season as well. I have calcium nitrate too, but that’s on the naughty list this year.
Open to do whatever. They recommend blood meal (about a pound at 12-0-0) for the N being low, and elemental sulfur for the pH. Blood meal, understand that, but would rather add 15x the quantity of EWC if that would do the trick. Sulfur, again, I understand the recommendation, but my sulfur seems obscenely high anyway.
In terms of the micronutrients, what about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/BioAg-Multi-Mino-Micronutrient-Fertilizer-Complexed/dp/B09Z4DXWSS
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Roots is a local company here in my town. Good shit. If i was to go organic I would use it and its cheap. Living soil will only be hard the first time figuring it out. Once you got it. You got it. I bet @Rogue can answer your questions above.
Thanks for the input Cole! Hopefully @Dirt_Wizard sees it too, he may have some guidance as well. @Rogue had lots of great input at the start of this. Appreciate any advice guys!
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I say add all the EWC, and some (5-10#) of Montmorillonite Clay/Calcium Bentonite for micros and soil texture:
If you wanted a boxed product for soluble nitrogen, use DtE AgMino, it’s much cheaper:
https://downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/solution-grade/agmino/
EDIT: @FieldEffect there’s also Ferti-Nitro Plus:
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First of all @Dirt_Wizard , I greatly appreciate the time you are spending to help me, and probably others that are reading this thing. Straight off the bat. I know it’s a lot of effort to help with that sort of fidelity.
Before you read all this, know that I’m perfectly willing to dump all the EWC and buy a fat sack of montmorillonite clay to dump in there. I want to understand more than that, but if that’s not achievable, I would be content to just do what you guys suggest.
I guess the thing I really like about the EWC is that I probably can’t overdo it with 40 pounds. The real question is: is it actually low on the P and K? I see widely variable numbers, and that guaranteed analysis is minimum content right? So my 1-0-0 EWC could very well be 1-1-1 or 1-5-10. I mean, that’s not realistic, just an extreme example. The 1-5-10 product could very well be labeled 1-0-0 and be “legal.” Is that correct? 40 pounds of 1-1-1 would likely put me into trouble territory with my other macronutrients.
I like the other high nitrogen fertilizers like protein (either soy or fish) because of the very high relative ratio. Feather meal, blood meal, bone meal, bat guano. I don’t think I want any higher P-K, just N. I mean, fundamentally, is that a correct statement? Should I aim for a similar or slightly higher N concentration as my K, like many garden soils seem to be out-of-the-bag, 200-300ppm or so? My understanding, however primitive is that I want those N-P-K values in a reasonable balance (3-1-2ish), the concentration is less of a concern if my plants adapt to it and use whatever they need. Setting my N deficiency off to the side, the micros.
I like the Montmorillonite Clay as a micronutrient supply, I wish I could find a micronutrient assay for it. One of the things I liked about the Multi-Mino was the detailed contents.
If I return momentarily to my engineering roots (pun intended), let’s figure out what ratios I think I want based on the chart in the soil test:
Mn (1.7ppm, target 4-10ppm): Need 135-488% more, 1.3-4.9 parts Mn
Fe (2.2ppm, target 3-10ppm): Need 36-355% more, 0.3-3.5 parts Fe
Zn (0.09ppm, target 0.1-0.25ppm): Need 11-177% more, 0.1-1.8 parts Zn
Cu (0.06ppm, target 0.06-0.3ppm) Want 0-400% more, 0-4 parts Cu
B (0.05ppm, target 0.2-0.6ppm) Need 300%-1200% more, 3-11 parts B
Multi-Mino
Mn 1% - normalize to 1 “part”
Fe 2.5% - 2.5 parts
Zn 3% - 3.0 parts
Cu 1% - 1 part
B 0.5% - 0.5 part
This is almost within the ranges I’m looking for numerically. Applying one “part” gets me to Mn almost in the good range, Fe right where I want it, Zn a little high, Cu right on the money. Then I just want a little boron seperately. Thank fuck I just bought a huge thing of borax for my failed soil texture testing 
Another fundamental question: How do I calculate PPM of my ammendments? This is mostly for clarification at this point, and my neuroticism favors numerical validation for my half-cooked “understanding.” Let’s say I have a yard of damp potting soil weighing 1500lbs, or 680kg.
If I want to add say, 50ppm of N, and I’m using a 13-0-0 supplement, how much do I add? I assume ppm can be calculated by mass fraction?
50ppm = 0.005%
0.005% of my 680kg is 34g of N
I take that 34g and divide by the percentage of N of my supplement (13% in this example)
34 / 0.13 = 262g of that supplement? 0.6lb?
Is that sensible or totally crazy?
NOW: The fundamental question. Does any of this matter? Does anyone pay attention to 50ppb of B?
I’m a little “on the spectrum” so to speak, so it’s difficult for me seperate critical factors from ones that don’t matter until I know more than I do at the moment. I fucking love you guys for bearing with me and guiding me. I feel like I’m 95 and my great grandkids are trying to show me how to check my email on my phone and I’m stuck on “how does the data get to the phone” rather than just clicking the Gmail app button. Maybe that’s the right analogy, if that’s the case just tell me to hit the damn button and I will. But to me, it’s worth understanding.
I’ll be shocked if anyone bothered to read all that, I can’t believe I just typed it.
If we set all that innane math aside, we’ve discussed several times nutrition diversity. How about half EWC and half like the AGmino? Is it prudent to do something like half of the multi-mino and half montmorillonite clay?
@LD50 I’ve seen all the nutrient analysis you’ve done, perhaps I need to read your thread to discover the answers to these questions, at least the ratios of nutrients, calculation of concentrations, etc. That’d be a day’s work to itself 
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I think you’re more guaranteed of an analysis with the Unco Wiggle Worm stuff than other brands, check out their website and videos, they operate in an industrial facility with a process developed over decades, so I think their product is extremely consistent compared to some, this is a neat tour and interview video:
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Page 18 of the PDF, Page 34 of the original document:
https://earthcrew.com/agrogeology-farming-with-rocks/montmorillonite-minerals/
Montmorillonite-Mineral-Analysis.pdf (196.9 KB)
This is a good read too:
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