2x2 20 Gallon Living Soil

[grow]

Despite everything else looking happy in the tent, the cannabis is still showing some burned tips. I had a few leaves progress further down the edges and it has me thinking that it’s the potassium excess manifesting. I ran about 3/4 gallons of plain water over her section of the pot. Seems like the most gentle way to address this. There should still be plenty of calcium to supplant excesses from the big gypsum application. There’s a possibility that it’s light burn as well. Because of how far I had to mount the light in this short tent I had to do some redneck engineering and I think the light is slightly off level. When I run the app to detect light intensity it’s definitely highest in that corner at the same distance.

This amaranth doesn’t play. Feels like every time I open the tent it’s grown back twice as strong.

[grow]

Welp, what an [unfortunately] eventful weekend. AC condensation line clogged Friday, I don’t have a ladder to get up in the attic and the repairman couldn’t make it out until this evening… so I came home to a 97 degree home and a 94 degree tent…

The Blumat sensor was reading >200mbar as well, but luckily I had hit the Forum Stomper with a gallon of plain water the day we went to stay elsewhere while the AC was broken. Her tips have still been looking burned and I think it’s just gonna take time to get the potassium and sodium down. I looked back at the soil test and it really was high. The saturated paste kinda tells the tale. She still looks alright, all things considered!

I didn’t take any group shots but I’ll snap some of those tomorrow when the lights are back on. Meanwhile, I’ll be taking cold showers and rubbing ice packs on my body until the AC catches up.

[LegsMahoney]

Brutal. Sorry for you troubles, I can’t stand the heat like that

[grow]

Appreciated! It’s a relief getting back to normal

Here’s the group shot- the amaranth really wants to be the star of the show. I trimmed back the one on the right really hard and now the other one is trying to take over.

[grow]

Been doing a lot of thinking and reviewing of the soil tests and I suspect I made a huge mistake over applying the gypsum & elemental sulfur. I want others to learn from my mistakes and the logic behind why I think it was a huge error. There may be a silver lining to all this though, but I still need to do some reading to see where this will leave me.

First, a picture of the state of things

And a refresher on the soil tests:

What I should have realized, first and foremost, is the overall EC/soluble salts is quite low. Both the Mehlich 3 and sat. paste confirm this at .7 EC and 400 or so ppm total salts. With this in mind, it hardly makes sense to describe this as a potassium/sodium excess. The second thing which is very important is the soil density measurement. My assumption had been that my soil was about 100 lbs for 20 gallons, but this is about double the measured value. This means every subsequent calculation is going to contribute 2x to my end ppm value.

So bearing this in mind, from the Mehlich 3 we see magnesium and potassium are elevated, and calcium is slightly depressed. Also, with calcium in a sub-5000 ppm range, even with the 7.6 pH, the Mehlich 3 is likely closer to accurate for calcium. Sulfur is low at 59ppm, which is why I thought initially gypsum would be a viable option. However, to get calcium to the appropriate range, the amount of sulfur added to the pot is entirely too much.

To put a point on it, I added nearly 200g of pelletized gypsum. This is roughly 23% S, or 47g of sulfur. I also added elemental sulfur thinking I should try to bring the pH down. If we say 50g of sulfur was added to the pot, this represents 50,000mg/22.5kg, or 2,222 ppm of sulfur.

That’s about 10x what I should have added in terms of total sulfur. So, knowing that I fucked up, I get to wait and see what sulfur toxicity looks like I guess.

The calcium addition will be about 2600 ppm which seems like a lot but shouldn’t be nearly as problematic as the sulfur.

So, I said there may be a silver lining… trying my best to console myself (in retrospect this soil test was actually pretty good, and I’m feeling like I shit on it pretty hard). With phosphorus being fairly elevated along with potassium, much of what I’ve read talks about having sulfur balanced with those two elements so it may be not quite as bad as it seems. Don’t get me wrong, it’s bad, don’t do what I did, but it shouldn’t be the end of the world. It’s also possible that with sulfur on the rise, and a very solid amount of calcium in the pot, that I’ll be able to push nitrogen harder than I have been.

I think the most important thing to convey at this point is that receiving actionable data generates a feeling of needing to act. I tried to temper this feeling with additional data to guide my actions but inexperience led me to make a fairly large mistake, at least by the numbers. How it pans out exactly is yet to be seen, but I suspect I will be dealing with this mistake for a while. By the numbers I’m going to be something ridiculous like 2000 ppm of sulfur over recommended, 1600 or so if you go off balancing it 1:1 with phosphorus. Like I said, big mistake.

For now, the plan is to continue with the current cycle, bringing the Forum Stomper to harvest while monitoring the overall health of all the plants. I’m likely going to plant a lot of mustard/kale/broccoli/onion as the forum stomper winds down. Those plants tend to have elevated sulfur demands so maybe I can remove a good amount by eating it. There is also the option to continue deep watering with DI water every now and then to move the sulfates to lower horizons or to runoff. That’s by far my least favorite option, although it does seem to mimic nature in some ways and may be less destructive than I think. Long rains do occur after all, washing the most soluble chemicals down into the soil profile or away entirely. I think at this point more than ever though, the best thing I can do is lean on the biology to help me out. The plants can help, the microbes can help, I just need to keep them diverse and alive.

As much as I’m kicking myself over the mistake, I’m glad to have realized it now before serious symptoms have shown up. When issues begin to come, I will likely start backwards from this gypsum addition to see if any issues I observe can be explained by the excess sulfur.

I hope this helps someone else!

[grow]

I’ve been gardening with a light touch as the system comes back into swing. The only additions have been small water additions of compost & casting extracts. I’ve been monitoring the soil a lot more with the microscope to assess how each action affects the microbes. It’s surprising the differences you can see even in a single 20 gallon pot.

On that note, I cleaned out all the blumat drippers and recalibrated the screws to get them all going at the same rate. The microscope turned me onto a clog on the dropper that was near the sensor which was making all the other drippers continue watering while the sensor remained dry. The area most affected of course was the cannabis dripper which was free and clear.

The soil sample near the cannabis had the highest indicators of anaerobic conditions, even near the surface, and the lowest prevalence of fungi (although fungi overall needs to come up throughout the pot, more on that in a sec). There was a really beautiful sample I pulled from near the center of the pot though. Absolutely stunning numbers of predators, both flagellate and amoebae, very low ciliate counts and a bit of fungi.

In an effort to get the fungi up, I added a small amount of chopped straw to the surface. Nothing crazy, just enough to provide all that lignin, cellulose, hemicellulose love that fungi desire. Saw a worm pulling a strand into the soil not long after .

I believe the flushes are manifesting as deficiencies in the cannabis, and this would be confirmed by the biology not being adequate to keep up with the plant’s demands as it’s trying to stack flowers under a 40+ DLI. The rest of the plants don’t have nearly the same demands for nutrients as a flowering cannabis plant which is why I think they’re generally happier looking. At this point I think I had my initial assessment completely wrong but I’m letting things ride out as I try to keep observing and learning.

Now that said, I heard something which didn’t really add up to me. Not going to name names here, but basically someone I otherwise respect quite a lot for their work said a fermentation product will be dominant in nitrate, and completely low in flowering forms of nitrogen, a la ammonium.

From a chemistry standpoint, that makes about as little sense as a statement can make to me. First, in a low pH, low redox potential, and no oxygen solution, nitrate would become an extremely appealing electron recipient for microbes. Second, aside from the nitrate in the starting plant material, there would be little opportunity to oxidize nitrogen species (like hydrolyzed proteins and peptides, ammonium and ammonia, etc). What little nitrate was in solution would be chemically reduced by anaerobes. Otherwise, I’m not sure how nitrate would be produced in any sizable amount in a fermentation type scenario. Third, in a low pH environment created by lactic acid bacteria, there’s an abundance of H+. So, while true that ferments can stink like a festival portapotty at the end of a three day weekend, the idea that ammonia would be the predominant form of nitrogen in solution also doesn’t make much sense in a low pH environment. Aquarium masters know all about this.

Which brings me to my last picture:

This is an NH3/NH4+ aquarium test kit. For this sample, I diluted my most recent horseweed ferment to about 3.3% (5 drops out of 145 drops were ferment). I then ran the test and arrived at this color. I’m keen to call this about .75 mg/L. Reversing the dilution, this would make the ferment roughly 22.7mg/L of ammonia/ammonium (since these are roughly the same molar mass, we can approximate as all in one form; due to low pH, I’m going with ammonium). Ammonium has a molar mass of 18, nitrogen 14. Ammonium is 78% N. This equates to 17.7mg/L of nitrogen.

At a high rate of 4oz/gallon, the 4 ounces is .12 liters… .12 * 17mg nitrogen/L = 2 mg nitrogen.

2mg N/3785 mg H2O = .05% N as ammonium

This is only part of the picture for now. I believe there’s some nitrate test strips in the fish dept as well, but I just had to scratch this itch first. Next I’ll check the nitrate levels to compare the two. The box claims I have 130 total tests so I’ll definitely be investigating the ammonium levels of various starting materials as well as grind/chop levels and weights vs total volume of ferment.

As far as what form the nitrogen in the ferments actually is… I’m not sure. I think a very large portion is immobilized in bacteria bodies. I also think a great deal is off-gassed, hence some of the smells. I also know that many lactobacillus species are auxotrophs for specific amino acids and have the ability to generate proteolytic enzymes to acquire said amino acids from their environment. On top of this, I’ve seen some research that shows the modulation of pH can have some enhancing effects on the native plant enzymes that break proteins. In other words, in the environment generated by lactobacillus in a ferment, proteolysis may be more easily performed by the enzymes contained in the plant material. There’s a non-zero chance that there is a portion of nitrogen as free amino acid & peptide chains, though if I had to guess, I’d say the majority is lost as gas in some form. Curiosity is gonna have me sending this stuff to a lab for testing… I just know it

[Waxman420]

Fellow 20g no tiller here. I’ve had 5 pots for 4 years now. Made all kinds of mistakes.

When you get into trouble I’ve found the best way to " flush" the big pots are to saturate and then place on folded towels . Swapping the towels as they become soggy . This way you can run lots of water without leaving pots too soggy. P.i.a. but it works

I wish I could’ve chimed in earlier but I think good old oyster shell flour/chunks would have steered you down the correct path .

Also don’t take too the ph readings on soil test too serious. You took 1 sample after harvest in 1 spot. You would be better off slurry testing different spots at different times at home . Even if its just using ph paper or drops. You would probably find they are all over the place 6-8 as the different species will dictate thier own ideal conditions in the ryzosphere auto magically.

If it were my bed I would practice l.i.t.f.a and continue with 50-75% distilled h2O …

One more tip. drip clean by house and garden . I couldn’t keep my blumat drippers dripping for an entire grow without it . Now I use them 2x before cleaning . ONLY Water in res i use 50% tap@140ppm 50% r.o. … 1m drip clean per gal last forever

[grow]

I’ll definitely check out the drip cleaner stuff. I’ve got some drip tape, have been considering making the switch over to that because the drippers have been such a pain to keep reliable. I never pulled the trigger on the enzymes I was considering adding to the res, but I did eventually switch to just water. Recently got an under counter water filter that removes chlorine and chloramine, plus a bunch of other contaminants. Wasn’t meant for the garden, but the plants will definitely benefit

In spite of me, this cycle has turned out alright.

They’re cloudy and close, just finishing.

[Waxman420]

Amazing what soil can do even with us sometimes working against it.

Enzymes just made snot like ropes in my lines. Now I use them after harvest only

If i never tried drip clean by home and garden those driippers would be so gone way too frustrating. I Looked into tape but gravity res just made sense for me .

I remember fucking with those drippers regularly . GIANT PIA and just when you get them perfect, a week later … you know the drill.

Ive found now when i eventually do clean the drippers. Imo its beneficial after brushing and reassembly to over tighten the screw a few times . It really loosens them up . Just take a flat head and tighten the plastic few turns . it will go round and round with a little effort . You will get what I’m saying if u try it .

Looking like chop chop start again

[grow]

@Waxman420

Amazing what soil can do even with us sometimes working against it.

Definitely. I think I got saved by the high organic matter content of the soil (almost 40%).

The height of my rez is definitely preventing me from switching to the tape. Could be the cause of uneven dripping too I guess, but I’d expect the first dripper in the line to be fastest if that was the case but it isn’t so….

Big update below, sorry for text wall:

Either way, the girl came down and now I’m faced with the decision of what strain to run next. I’ve got a bunch of Mephisto seeds and a couple night owl I’ve wanted to run for a minute. Also would love to rerun the Canna-Cheese (fucking loved that high. In the clouds without a body and without paranoia.). I’m also down to my last the Spirit Train jar and that has been a fantastic smoke. The one I saved for last has really matured and it’s like yellow Gatorade on smell and smoke. Just grinding it up makes me smile like I’m at soccer practice as a kid. Too many choices is a good problem to have!

Currently I’m taking my time with some end of cycle fertility/dry amendments. I put together a mix with the goal of bringing the nitrogen up, while bumping phosphorus a hair, while trying to keep potassium and magnesium inputs fairly low. Both were adequate/high in my base soil test so I think just making sure to keep calcium as a priority while bringing up the total nitrogen and phosphorus before the next cycle should be a decent approach.

The total amendments came to about 190g of total dry material, with estimated increases as follows:

Ca - 460 ppm (12g)
N - 135 ppm (3.5g)
P - 83 ppm (2g)
K - 83 ppm (2g)

This is pretty moderate I think, but given how much calcium was added mid-run, and given the sulfate amendments added for trace elements, I think it’s appropriate. I’m applying piecemeal over a few weeks to give the biology time to incorporate the material with each dose, treating it like a “mini Fall” season for the soil. Once I know when the final dry amendments will go in, I’ll make the final decision on the next strain.

I’ve also made a bunch of grain spawn bags (shaking off the old mycology rust) with the intent of creating some living mulch mats in my various garden beds as well as areas of the lawn I’d like to start using to produce food. Wine caps are currently inoculating the bag on the right:

I’m going to isolate back to agar once this is complete then grain-to-grain and expand the culture to about 30-40 total pounds of grain spawn. At that point I’ll have enough to really throw down some spawn right as the hottest part of the year is ending. Hoping they’ll colonize and fruit before it gets too cold. I have some other cultures on slants I’d like to play with but the weather here doesn’t really suit those strains so I’ll likely stick with wine caps and maybe pink oysters for now.

The tent is pretty boring for now. The seedlings are various food seeds I had and just wanted to get something going before the chop. Kale, turnips, carrot, some different herbs, beets, squash, okra etc etc. I also added some buckwheat, flax, and a few grasses for diversity along with some various flower seeds.

[ChongoBongo]

@grow

The most bizarre part of this is how much the smell reminds me of a barbecue restaurant. Like the kind of place that has brisket, ribs, and sausage on the menu by the pound. Best guess is the molasses making a contribution.

hah I thought the same thing when I opened up my 5 gal of animal feed molasses. “Well, I guess I know what bbq sauce is made of now!”

[grow]

Alright, the Forum Stomper F2 is in jars. After an 8 or 9 day dry, it seemed right. I experimented this time around with drying in a mini fridge I found on Craigslist. Guy was selling a 4.4 cu ft plate evaporator mini fridge for $25. Total steal, and I had been wanting to try this for a while so I picked it up during the grow and have been waiting for the chop.

While trimming, there was a pronounced beer smell as well as a fuel aroma that was completely absent during the grow. She smelled a bit in the tent, but it was sort of a generic weedy/clove smell. After sitting in the jars overnight, I’m getting some of the faint chocolate notes I was expecting for a GSC strain, but a decent amount of fuel/paint thinner. Total surprise and a real treat as I am a huge fan of diesel and gas aromas. Can’t wait to load some of this up and see how it hits!

For the fridge dry, I used an Eva Dry dehumidifier, a little computer fan and an environment sensor with Bluetooth so I could see what was going on inside without having to open the door, and to offer redundancy to the numbers from the controllers. I hooked up the fridge to my inkbird temp controller and the Eva dry to the humidity controller. Temp was set to 60F with a 3F tolerance, RH was initially set to 60% but eventually I just set this low to the point that it was always on. (I am going to reevaluate this decision, but for this first run I figured drier is better than mold. And since I didn’t hedge my bets at all and just shoved the entire plant in this experiment, I didn’t want to lose everything to mold if I could help it ) I also added a small DampRid container to the fridge for the first two days to help drop moisture out of the plant up front. This was removed to slow drying down a touch after the initial use. I removed all the internal shelves then cut some PVC 1/4” pipe to fit across the support for the top shelf, drilled some holes through it for stems, then used binder clips to pinch the stems after pushing them through. Since the system was closed, I figured I could increase internal circulation pretty high by using the computer fan. It has a variable speed dial so this varied between 5-8 speed (out of 10). I wasn’t really worried about overly dry spots so much as I was worried about pockets of excess moisture.

Some observations: the Eva Dry dehumidifier is by all accounts not intended for use at 60F. It is a peltier based dehumidifier. These aren’t known for efficiency, and they are worse at lower temperatures when the dew point nears freezing. Even still, in 9 or so days, this little unit collected a total of about 210ml or grams of water. For perspective, 4.4 cu ft of air at 100F can hold something like 6g of water vapor. At 60F that’s closer to 1.5g. While I was initially worried about opening the door and letting in humid air, looking at these numbers vs what the dehumidifier was pulling out put me more at ease. I still tried to keep the system closed as much as possible.

I haven’t weighed my herb yet but I will to try and relate this information to my next grow/dry experience. I should have weighed the plant wet as well to have some more data but it didn’t cross my mind at the time. Tbh I don’t think it’s that important or precise from grow to grow or cultivar to cultivar, but I do like the info for getting in the ballpark of how close things are to done.

The plate evaporator generates a lot of swinging in the RH inside the fridge, and seems to be very dependent on sensor & fan placement. If I put the fan blowing on the plate, the fridge would cool down rapidly as the cool air circulates, but the plate rapidly condenses moisture. Some would of course drain out of the fridge through the drain tube, but what remains on the plate evaporates back into the fridge raising the internal RH. I felt like the fan blowing on the plate helped to evaporate this condensation faster keeping the RH higher than it needed to be.

I experimented with the fan near the top of the space and that worked pretty well. The fan was blowing from the door back across the top of the fridge toward the back plate, and since it was located inside the channel intended for the can dispenser, it made a little air channel that pulled air from lower in the fridge, at least in part.

The RH swinging was the biggest question mark for me and the most likely source of failure. I ended up asking here on OG for help and got some pretty decent replies that matched what I was hoping wasn’t true. Too low of RH and the outer parts of the plant would dry too rapidly preventing proper movement of moisture from the inner portions of the plant thus preventing a proper dry. Too high of RH and the dry would take too long risking mold. High RH raises the dew point as well, meaning the chance of forming condensation on plant material would be increased.

Between now and next time, I’m going to try and improve the system with a few goals in mind:
-reduce RH swings
-increase total capacity of herb
-reduce fridge cycling (to improve lifespan)

I am toying with using more internal circulation to make sure the space is as homogenized as possible for temp/humidity. Moving away from hanging the plants to using wire/mesh racks would also be huge I think for circulation as well as overall capacity. As ridiculous as this sounds, somehow attaching a small windshield wiper to the evaporation plate would be a quick way to dump a lot of the internal moisture down the drain. I’m sure there’s a better way, but that’s the goal I’m keeping in mind, I just don’t know how to get there Removing moisture that way would be very helpful for reducing the fridge cycling as the dehumidifier generates a fair amount of heat which triggers the temp controller faster.

Alright, that’s about all I’ve got on the fridge for now. In the tent, I realized my dumbass had taken out the humidifier at some point (probably when it was a fucking jungle) and all the seedlings were a bit unhappy. I also had the lights a bit too strong (20 DLI for a baby radish is too much? Who knew??).

(Ignore the temp/RH - I had just moved the sensor from the fridge and it was still adjusting)

For this next round, I’m trying to be a lot better about managing VPD & DLI. I was so focused on the soil and nutrition last round that I think I dropped the ball in this department and shortchanged my grow (can’t even count the number of ways I fucked up last round ). From what I’ve been seeing under the scope, the soil is thriving and fungi numbers are continually rising. I’m seeing longer and longer hyphae and a shitload of fungal spores as well. I’m still planning to add the wine cap mulch layer but need these seedlings to grow a bit more and I need to finish adding the end of cycle dry amendments first.

[grow]

The brassicas definitely got a head start on everything else. The okras came up behind them, then the squash and past that it’s a free for all. As usual I’m trimming back pretty aggressively to try and give as much stuff a chance to grow. Also put a bit more of the dry amendment mix yesterday. I’ve probably got two more applications of that before it’s finished.

Spike is from opening the tent to mist the dry amendments in some… the tent does tend to warm up during the day but I’m just trying to get a better sense of keeping the system in range. Fine tuning can come later once I know how to make the numbers move like I want.

Here’s a fun update from the horseweed ferment as used on the lawn…

May 29

Yesterday

Applied twice, once at 4oz/gallon another at 2oz/gallon. Not bad!

The lawn guys came and sprayed some toxic shit all over the driveway at some point and it seeped into the grass and killed everything it touched… so it looks like bioremediation is the next test for the ferment. Literally every crack in the driveway has a patch of dead lawn at the end of it.

And last but not least, a half used ferment that has an air gap and smells like a sun baked, shit packed diaper.

[grow]

Fun update today, but first the ugly:

Definitely seeing some deficiencies, mainly in the squash, brassicas, and avens. I’m assuming it’s antagonism from the enormous calcium application. Strikes me like the plants are struggling for iron with an interveinal chlorosis in new growth that kinda looks like tie dye. Looking at Mulder’s chart, a lot of the stuff calcium antagonizes could be at play, not just iron. That’s the ugly…

The good/fun is that I’ve finally added the wine caps mushrooms into the project! Yesterday I did some grain transfers to fresh bags and with those colonizing, and the bag already cracked once I figured using the spawn sooner rather than later is the ticket to avoid too much competition with contams. I rehydrated some hardwood pellets and took all the blumat drippers out. I applied the grain spawn and hardwood in alternating layers, starting with the grain spawn on bottom and ending with the hardwood on top. Once I had applied a few layers, the whole thing was lightly watered to bring the layers together a bit and to give the last bit of moisture. I also dug up some old cubensis spore prints and made some transfers to agar while I was at it. Would be nice to get some spawn made in time for fall and maybe get a flush before winter. That will depend on how much I need to clean up the cultures before inoculating the grain. With the remaining wine caps spawn I repeated the same process in one of my outdoor herb beds as well as a spot under a air conditioner condensation drain line. I have the least expectation for that spot, though it would be amazing if it took off.

It was a bit of a hassle having live plants already growing but a little bit of shaking and the watering in washed most of the leaves fairly clean. Now I’ll just be watering to keep the hardwood moist while the mycelium runs through it.

I’ve also got a tent upgrade coming tomorrow that’s long overdue: an oscillating fan. The Hurricane fan has served well but even in this tiny space, it doesn’t get the air moving like I would like. It was a tossup between AC Infinity and similar one I found online but with AC Infinity’s good reputation, more speed options, and the fan’s ability to link up with their smart controllers, I went with them.

The Forum Stomper F2 harvest is almost ready for a smoke report as well. The jars are getting quite fragrant as the burping continues. Looking forward to getting after a big ol’ joint of that one.

[grow]

Beautiful thing to see mycelium starting to expand like this, just had to share

[Dr.VitaminGreen]

Amazing journal. So much scientific information it’s mind-blowing!

I’m going to try that insect frags ferment today. I’ve been wondering how else I can use it beside just adding to the soil.

What was the final atomper? From sprout to harvest, i didnt see that?

Are you a chemist in career or just hobbyist? Very well done

[grow]

@Dr.VitaminGreen

Amazing journal.

I appreciate the kind words I’ve been trying to be better about keeping a timeline of what happens in the tent and this journal is my place to dump what’s been happening so I don’t forget. My education is in chemistry but life took some turns on me and I never went after that professional path. Maybe I learned something in school after all lol

I applied a foliar today with the the BioAg multi-mino, 0 tds water, thermx, some of their Ful-power, and some added Epsom salt. Everything was at a low dose- about 1/2 tsp per gallon rate for the multimino & Epsom salts, 1:1000 thermx, 1:200 Ful-power. Really just looking for a response from the sicklier looking squash/radishes.

[grow]

Didn’t get the response I was looking for from the foliar but it also dried incredibly quickly. I may rewet the leaves at lights out with some more 0 tds water to try and get the rest to soak into the leaves. Otherwise I’ll wait and apply another foliar in the future at lights out and play with some very small calcium chloride additions or something similar to try and slow down the evaporation off the leaves. The wine cap mycelium seems happy with the environment so far!

[grow]

Trimmed up some plants and cleaned the blumats and flushed the lines. Used a bacterial product with enzymes, let it soak in the lines. Soaked the drippers in some as well. Added citric acid to the reservoir after flushing a decent amount of the bacteria/enzyme stuff through the lines. Let that soak for a bit longer then drained it all and ran about 2 gallons of pure water run through it.

[grow]

Lots to chop/trim these days. I threw some unknown hemp seed in there a while ago just to track how the soil is faring for cannabis. I still had a lot of dry amendments to apply for the end of cycle so I used some cheapo throwaway type seed I wouldn’t mind culling at some point. This plant has been above ground for 13 days. There’s a few elsewhere in the pot, some getting light, some not so much. I moistened the entire surface as well today to encourage the wine caps to continue to spread through the hardwood. Mycelium produces such a beautiful smell that aromatizes when sprayed. Could easily overwater when it smells that enticing

Not much else in the way of updates for now. Still considering what to run next… I’m leaning toward something gassy. Ive got some crème de la chem from Mephisto that might fit the bill. Also have SODK from them but I’m pretty sure that would require a lot of training/topping.