A Newbies Guide to Newbie Things to Avoid

There may be many threads like this, but this one is mine…

I was fortunate enough to jump into growing through circumstances. I also figured, if I can grow, farm, and propagate the most difficult and most colorful corals, “weed” should be easy. Well, yes and no, I’m happy to say that most of the chemistry and nutrient stuff was quickly absorbed thanks to my reefkeeping experience and I quickly fell in love with growing. Also, although I’m only a hobbyist, I’ve read just about everything I can get my hands on regarding reefkeeping, including several text books and hundreds of research papers. What’s the point you say? When I love something I take a heavy and deep dive and have been learning daily about cannabis for a year, through reading and through trial and error.

So, to help some folks that maybe don’t have the time or patience to sift through gobs on info, here’s my list of the most important lessons I wish someone had told me about when I started!

1.) Like any involved hobby that involves growing something, or something alive like pets or plants, there are a lot of fads and there are a lot of things in expensive bottles that you simply don’t need.

2.) Some parameters are more important than others, as a new grower you should focus on these things first and foremost

A.) Nutrients: Ensure you have all 17 required nutrients for life. This can be achieved by way of as little as one bag of inexpensive fertilizer, or by way of a more expensive duo of trio of bottles from a respectable company . Anything above and beyond that is not needed to grow beautiful weed, at least when it comes to adding things to soil/water//coco/whatever. Everything beyond that should be questioned (also see #1}.
B.) Don’t stress about humidity, but try to keep it above 40% and below 65%, you can start running into trouble outside of this. Too high (above 70%) for too long can be a recipe for disaster for your plants, especially once they’ve been flowering for a bit.
C.) Keep temps in a safe range. IME anything between 65 and 85 is tolerated pretty well. Someone with more experience and a better understanding of certain plants can safely play outside this range. You, we are not that person yet.
D.) PH is supremely important, if you want to grow big healthy plants with lots of bud this is a big one no matter how perfect everything else is. Get a PH meter and calibrate it regularly with proper solution. It’s easy once you do it a few times.

3.) Give your plants and roots lots of “air” to breath if you want large healthy plants, if you want smaller plants, don’t. A gentle bnreeze and good air movement always seems to be appreciated it. I don’t understand the science, but I’ve seen the unhappy plants when I don’t realize a fan is turned off or not working.

4.) PPFD, PAR, light intensity, whatever you want to call it, is king when it comes to lights. Luckily, even cheap amazon grow lights can grow great plants due to the simple spectrum requirements of cannabis. Those cheap lights work well, at least for a while, until you can decide if you need or want some fancy features and to tweak leaf coloration and max yield potential.

5.) The outdoors and bugs are not your friend unless you’re an outdoor grower where you have natures balance to help you. Do not put plants outside unless necessary, if you do, inspect them closely and research neem and other believed to be safe pesticides. If you’re using clones do the same. Spider mites suck!

6.) Each plant is different, they don’t follow your schedule, and just because the breeder said 65 days doesn’t mean that’s what will happen. If you’re consistently going really long, something with your grow might not be right breeder’s with parameters or light, though breeders are often optimistic,

7.) Did I mention PH is important? Don’t ignore this one or you might be chasing your tail thinking something else is wrong when it’s simply your PH.

8.) If you’re growing in soil or coco, don’t over water and over fertigate. If you’re doing it more than once every day or two slow down. Also, younger plants don’t consume a lot and small root structures drink far less. Once every day is more than sufficient early on and once you get out of the seedling stage, and typically enough throughout a grow unless pots are small.

That’s what I’ve got for now, I hope some new or aspiring growers find it useful. Others, feel free to chime in on some of your newbie lessons learned that I missed.

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Great write up I’m feeling #5 , and #6.
If I may add. Practice practice practice… but not on expensive genetics. Bag seeds, are a great place to start. There are also many giveaways here where a new grower can access starter seeds.
Also beyond popular belief, autos aren’t for beginners. Those huge auto plants take real skill to accomplish, that’s why you don’t see many growers capable of pulling it off. So I recommend starting with a photo plant. That way you can learn how to make clones, as well as have more time to learn the seed making process.
I do recommend trying to work problems out for yourself because there are no 2 grow situations alike. One man’s ph issues is another man’s root bound issue. Meaning your problem can be anything, and most problems share a common theme…. Your plant isn’t absorbing nutrients and is now cannibalizing itself…. Cannabis, doh! There is usually a simple reason why your plant isn’t eating…… and it not alway “cal mag”. Does any one still use cal mag?
Anyway it just my .2 cents. Besides, the more you grow, the more you know.

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Avoid the Google’s greatest hits seedbanks.

Research breeders by talking to growers in an open setting (like this forum). Only way to get good info.

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The biggest mistake I’ve seen new growers make is trying too many things at once. New tent, new lights, new soil & nutes and a half dozen exotic strains, on their first grow. Recipe for disaster.

Minimize the variables and adjust them one at a time.

Get a dozen or so sister seeds of a well known and stable strain and grow them out one or two plants at a time. Apply what you learn from each grow and tweak the variables (nutes, lights, watering…) to avoid the previous problems. Go slow. Pay attention. Keep a notebook so you can remember the when and how of your grows.

Refine your technique until you can grow that one strain really well. You’ll know what works and what doesn’t, what you like and don’t about the specific strain you are now intimately familiar with. Take that knowledge and run with it. You are no longer a newb.

Jus my $0.02
-Grouchy

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Thanks for this post. Im very new to this. We started our grow about 5 weeks ago. Ive had tons of questions, and this forum is great. I also have the benefit of having a great friend at work, who has tons of experience. He gifted us some seeds, and I take pictures daily to show him. I might suggest keeping a journal and jotting down notes so you dont make the same mistakes.

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Similar Background as you, only I did 150g African Cichlid tanks for 40 years. Knowledge of the whole wet/dry filter concept is very helpful as a lot of the concepts apply to DWC hydro.

1st time growing in 40 years and I am still growing my catalog of mistakes. Biggest lesson I learned on this grow was on lighting. Learn about DLI and measure it. I burnt up my current grow by providing far too much light. Never had that problem back in the 80s, but with these new LED lights it is easy to overdo the lighting if you dont measure it. I found I have to put my LED dimmer on about 60% to be in the right range, I ran them at 90% for the 1st six weeks before I discovered the DLI concept. The top layer of canopy leaves did not like it at all. I thought it was a pH or nute problem and chased my tail adjusting the wrong things. You can get a free app called " Photone" for your cell phone that will give you the par, ppfd, and DLI readings.

My biggest challenge is figuring out the PPM for the nutes. I havent developed the “feel” for it yet.

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This is the statement that sticks into the back of my head since I was a newb…so I take it to heart.

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Nice write-up. Personal experience, I would put PH and PPFD/DLI as first and second. Get these dialed in and they will prevent a number of problems down the line.

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@Eagles009 is a good hand. Good luck with your grow.

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Not thinking about an IPM - look into it.
Believe bugs can and will happen to you.
Follow your IPM discipline.
This is the way….

image

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Thanks for the additions!

Totally agree with the autoflower part, and it’s something I didn’t understand until recently. So much of new grower info is aimed towards autos that I just assumed they were easier.

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Good one as well, my first order was through seedsman, and it was frustrating. Find US breeders and seed banks that are run by enthusiasts that know their beans. However, I will say that starting with white widow from ILGM was a good newbie move for me despite what some may think of them.

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All good points! Growing white widow with every grow taught me so much about phenotypes and how a plant reacts to training and different variables. Also important to note (IMO) that any issues you see are often a result of what happened a few days ago or over the course of weeks.

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Good point, and DLI is another reason why there is no one size fits all for light schedules.

It’s a super rough suggestion, but I feel that keeping PPM around 500 (assuming lower TDS source water) is sufficient early for most plants and won’t cause problems as long as ratios are good, and around 1000 during veg and flower is often good for most. Then you can adjust from there on the fly or for subsequent grows.

I will say, cannabis can handle a lot of light! Unless you’re really going crazy with lighting you may want to look into other things like humidity being a factor. I can have 1000+ ppfd without nuking plants, but I run 55-60% humidity and RDWC.

P.S. I bred tanganyikan and peacock cichlids for years! Kind of miss my cichlid tanks. I almost setup an aquaponic system when I decided to do DWC…

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I can confirm.Autos are thrown at people when they start(I fell into this trap) and are showed as Easy,Automatic-doing-their-thing-alone-plant as if they were magic plants.No they are not,and they are more complicated than photos Just because the big Negative side Is that they are on a timer and you cannot keep vegging Them or d cose when to go on flower mode,you got no control.
I had Fair mid size autos in 3 gal pots and many many issues only After my 2-3 attempt.It s very difficult and you got to be 50% lucky on the genetic side etc etc and 50% skilled to outplay the nature of automatic plants!

Also,the situation Is Different for every strain.Example:I grow 2 sister from Royal queen seeds,the green gelato.they came out nice and very frosty,I was stunned by how much resin they put out.This was because I had 3 grow in belt and started to do better.But,about those gelato,I noticed that they used to grow 2 branches under the cotyledons,so weird,never seen before.The 2 sisters were 2 different phenos,but nonetheless they had this same tendency,to develop under cotyledons branches with flowers.Next grow,I Will cut Them and take advantage of knowing the structure of the plant itself.So this Stupid example shows us that knowdoledge Is general,but also very specific to exactly what strain you gonna grow!

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Amen by BROTHER. PH is the reason everything we do goes wrong People forget to step all the time and the most important plant Lowe’s perfect pH somewhere around 5.8/6.2

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It’s not that they are on a timer, they seem to sputter out because people want to grow autos as if they are photos. High nitrogen and high ppm’s will cause the condition that i call slow death… the auto will get close to the end and just stall. So people assume that they are dead. They don’t be dead, they just don’t like what’s being done, so they go into a stasis,stress condition until things get better. Most people just assume that they are finished so they harvest them.
Another thing, your nutrition game has to be on point to successfully grow autos. Most of the stuff that’s in a bottle isn’t going to do it for an auto because you will only get a big leafy plant with airy buds come harvest time. Believe me I have done it many times before I figured them out.
The best advice I’ll give an auto grower is not to burn it… and they will stunt If you give them too much N.
Because of the learning curve, they aren’t a good option for beginners.

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The biggest mistake I see new growers making is to much love.
Watering to often and using to many nutrients when using soil is the most common. Do not water until your plants are light, usually you can tell if they need water when the soil around the edge of the container starts separating from the container. When watering them make sure they are good and heavy without running a bunch of water out the bottom of your containers.
To much love is as bad or worse then not enough. Most young plants will have all the nutrients they need for the first month if you are using a good soil mix.

My 2 cents……. OJ

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Awesome, this helps clear up some of what I didn’t understand about timing and clones. Also why some autos can be done in a staged crop and fatten up and others won’t fatten up anymore once partly chopped. I’m sure plant and root health is a huge factor as well.

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After starting with hydro (dwc)switching to organics and soil. I’d recommend organic soil to any beginner. Any “premium” potting mix, premixed tomato and vegetable organic dry amendments 1-2tbsp/gal soil(dr earth, gaia green etc) microbes like recharge or great white once a week. KISS is something I often have to say to myself after overcomplicating things.

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