TEST Ranking
Grade scale
F - FAILED/DOESN’T WORK
D - UNSATISFACTORY
C - PASSABLE
B - GOOD
A - EXCELLENT/BEST
1 - C
2 - B
3 - A
4 - A
TEST Ranking
Grade scale
F - FAILED/DOESN’T WORK
D - UNSATISFACTORY
C - PASSABLE
B - GOOD
A - EXCELLENT/BEST
1 - C
2 - B
3 - A
4 - A
@OriginalDankmaster96 & @Jetdro - Yea ! flushing has been a “debate” for 30 years + what ever works for you guys and there was a time when NO “N” in flower period was the so called way to go - after trying and reading much about “N” conclusion is "a little N will not hurt but when it coms to sativa’s especially pure no “n” is the way to go if you don’t want “claws” as for drying depends were you live if drying “naturally” - ideal is a dedicated room /area but if one wants to invest in equiment for can get better result
That’s how I learned it, decrease N to P and then K. We learn our mistakes from experience, we shape our practices this way. In the case of extreme dry humidity, it only took me 2 plant grows to LEARN if humidity is far too low for drying slow, if there’s residual N left, IF the plant dries within 2-3 days, it’s all TRAPPED inside the cholorphyll and will NOT cure out. Humidity can vary, but generally 30-40% I won’t chance ruining buds by having that N locked in. Flushing mitigates this whole problem from happening in the first place. I’ve always said flushing is not necessary if you have the right humidity, but without OH YES YOU MUST Dries too fast to cure out. So for me flushing WILL ALWAYS be predicated on my drying conditions