I have enough experience with chemical, unnatural grows to know you are full of bullshit.
Anyone using these methods has to constantly monitor ph, ppm and algae or they run into big trouble.
Ever since I went TLO all I have to do is water and maybe a compost tea or two in flower.
Keep chugging those chemicals though, maybe you can throw in a vaccine too.
Good bye vermy.
I donāt even own a ppm meter anymore. What algae lol? I check pH maybe 5-6 times a cycle. Man you really know a lot about hempies and hydro haha.
You donāt chug the chemicals or vaccinate the plants. Thatās probably why your grow failed lol.
So i pumped some water through and ph was at 6.7, ppm at 384. I kept going until the runoff was at 6.1. Now Iāll just wait. The ones I put in soil are still standing up nearly 18 hours later too, so thatās a good sign. Hopefully I can get these guys into flower in a couple of weeks and then the other seeds I just popped a couple weeks after that.
Iāve been losing sleep over this so I hope I can turn it around. Thanks!
6.7 isnāt too bad. Easy enough to adjust. Glad itās working for you. Those are also pretty low ppmās you may want to ratchet up the feedings, might help some.
I have been using the bottom 1/3rd covering the hole with perlite, and the top a mix of 2 parts perlite 1 part coco. It seems to have perfect pH every time, reduces my labor, made hempies more āplug and playā you may wish to try this going forward Iāve done it every way and I feel this is the easiest and most effective, and still very cheap.
Yeah cool, Iāve got a few coco bricks here i usually mix some in with my soil. Iāve considered it, but donāt have the calmag to buffer it. I wonder if Iāll get by buffering with the B part of my bottled nutes which is just micros and nitrogen. I might just order a bottle today and be sure.
Either way, I might start a journal here with the seeds Iāve got soaking because Iāve been meaning to attempt a pollen chuck. Thanks for all your help mate, Iām feeling much better about everything today, been tearing what little hair I have left out the past week.
You donāt need it if itās a modest part of the mix. Mine ends up being about 1/4 to 1/3rd of the total media volume. It tends to have a low initial pH, which counteracts the often high initial pH of the perlite.
In pure or mostly-coco that are hand watered, it does weird stuff with nutrients, but as a low-coco mix itās plug and play, in my experience. Iāve done it with perlite to the drain hole and pure coco on top, and I vastly prefer the mostly-perlite mix.
Alright Iāll give it a shot. Didnāt occur to me to use a mostly perlite mix, always thought of it the other way round. Iāve never buffered using it in soil mixes up to about 40% and had no issues. Appreciate you taking the time dude.
Iām pretty sure the wilt youāre seeing in your plants is temperature relatedā¦ mainly in the rhizosphereā¦ meaning your plant has cold feet!
You said the temps range between 15C/59F - 23C/73F. Thatās on the cool side for the plant canopy, let alone the rootsā¦ I wouldnāt let it get below 20C/68F while growing Hempy style and thatās still on the cool side for the roots. Temps ranging between 23C/73F - 28C/82F would serve you better and your plants will grow faster when their roots stay warmer.
Since plants grow better when the roots have the appropriate warmth, your goal is to make sure the air temperature in the bucket zone doesnāt get below 20C/68F. Cold roots = stunted growth and can also cause nutrient deficiencies. Root temperature in soil isnt quite as problematic as it can be in any hydro application, like growing Hempy style.
Soil holds heat, perlite/vermiculite/croutons do not.
Also, I disagree that chlorine/chloramine used to treat municipal water is bad for plants.
What are the plants in your yard watered with, and how are they doing? Is it killing them? Probably notā¦ theyāre probably growing/living just fine with city waterā¦ even with the elevated pH (normally over 7.5 pH) the water company uses to prolong the life of the pipes in their district. My tap water comes out at an amazing 8.1 pH and I give it to all my plants straight from the tap. Iāve never experienced problems in doing so.
I do agree that chloramine is harder to get out of the water than chlorine is and setting water out for a few days isnāt enough time to dissipate the chlorine that is found in it.
If you had 10 gallons/37.85 liters of water with a chlorine concentration of 2ppm, it would take roughly 110 hours to fully dissipate, undisturbed. Thatās almost five full days you would have to wait until you can water your plants with chlorine-free water.
If the same amount of water had a chloramine concentration of 1ppm, it would take roughly 170 hours to fully dissipate.
If you want it to dissipate faster, then youāll have to boil it out or use a filter.
Hey, I just saw this post and have been off the forums for a little so I thought Iād chip in my recent experience. I used a 1L yoghurt tub filled with perlite and a drain hole about a quarter way up. All in all itās the easiest and least problematic grow method/ most error friendly for me. My first problem was of course getting the seedling to stay near the top of the perlite and not wiggle itās way down as I watered but starting off in some kind of seed starter pod or rockwool would make it easy, I just have it a little pull while it still moved then dug away a little perlite till it grew a bit haha. The next problem I encountered was green fungus or whatever you call it ontop which I fixed with a disc of cardboard to block light. I could water whenever and however much I liked because of the drain hole I literally couldnāt overwater but I maybe watered once a week or every 3-4 days for the most part. I also watered every day for a couple weeks near the beginning and I watered till runoff every time and no problems. Iām not sure if it was method or strain but that has been my densest and fattest nug in my last grow. Will definitely try again but with better setup and as a whole grow room grow instead of among other experiments.
If you really did need chloramine/chloramine out of your water (letās say you do organics), best way is sodium thiosulfate aka aquarium dechlorinator. Seachem Prime is my go-to dechlorinator.
Chlorine is a plant micronutrient, though, and a little helps keep things sanitized. I think sterility is helpful in any non-organic endeavor.
My tap is also 8.0+ and smells kinda like a pool, other than the crap taste and all the sediment though, lol, it grows fine plants. We live right next to a Great Lake and we get our water from deep aquifers for some reason.
Yes sir, it isā¦ chlorine is one of the 16 nutrients needed to properly grow cannabis. Itās a micronutrient that the vast majority of growers will tell you is bad for your plants, not knowing how essential chlorine is to certain processes in higher plants.
Chlorine does a few things for plants, it helps to regulate their metabolism and regulate the osmotic and stomatal processes including photosynthesis, as well as playing a key role in tolerance and disease resistance for the plant.
That is true but in minute amounts and for chlorine, not chloramine in which the chlorine is chemically bound to ammonia.
when a municipality switches over to a chloramine-based system to comply with DBP regulations, the level of pipe corrosion inhibitor needs to be increased, because chloramine-treated water is more corrosive than chlorine-treated waterā¦
Even when pipe corrosion is properly accounted for, chloramine must be removed from the water when it is being used for dialysis, aquariums, baking, and even craft brewing (maybe you didnāt burn your mash after all!).
While we wash and bathe with tap, we use a Zerowater filter for cooking and drinking, I also have to clean my coffee maker less too.
I will never use it in my grow again.
hydroviv.com
Visit Hydroviv to learn the difference between chloramine vs. chlorine, and how you can remove these common tap water disinfectants from your own water.
Municipal water with chloramine in it is as safe for plants as Municipal water with chlorine in it isā¦ thereās very little difference in the two at low public drinking water levels.
Another myth crushed!
Because you say so?
You and vermie should get a room.
Watering plants in soil outdoors is a whole lot different than hempy grows where the roots sit in that water.
But people believe what they want, I usually believe what my experience tells me.
Have you read any of my posts in this thread, Iāve been growing Hempy style more than 30 years and I use tap water.
Just because you donāt agree, doesnāt make you correct. You can look the information up and read it for yourselfā¦ maybe then youāll stop your childish behavior and grow up .
Childish behavior as in attacking anotherās experience?
Thatās in your and vermies wheelhouse, not mine.
Chlorine and chloramine are toxic agents, all Iām doing is pointing that out and my experience with.them.
You two are the oneās denying that and throwing the hissy fit.
@spaceman In order to attack your experience, you must first have experience to attack lol.
@DesertGrown hempy 4-ever. Iāve grown many ways and I always come back to it. Modular, no moving parts, honestly I canāt believe they arenāt more popular for 95% of home growersā needs.
@EightVolt how them plants looking my dude?
Yeah I pulled the plug on those yesterday unfortunately, and got ten more into dirt. Iāll give the hempys another go in the future because ive seen firsthand how well they can work, but at this point Iāve gotta keep it moving.
@EightVolt did you ever get a reading on your runoff? Just wondering what could have caused your problems.
Yeah, i tipped the remaining water out and it read 385ppm/6.7 or 6.8 ph from memory. Gave them a big flush until the water was coming out at 6.0. Then left them 48 hours with no change, and they seemed to have stopped drinking.
The ones I transplanted to soil probably would have bounced back eventually, but i figured it may be quicker to just start again. I think next time I go hempy Iāll try a coco/perlite mix.