PING. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Can someone please share some knowledge!
Thanks,
M
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Yes those are the preflowers. Pull them off if you wish. I wouldnât be too worried about them rotting. Rot tends to be in dense stuff.
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The âpre-flowersâ Iâm talking about that cause trouble are the ones that are actually in the base of the buds. Preflowers that are on side branches and top colas. I agree with foreigner, no need to worry about the ones you are asking about but if you see any of those yellow ones inside the perimeter of your buds get rid of them before the bud completely encloses them
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@Upstate @slain
Guys,since I started using Coco and HFF that doesnât let Coco dry out I Ve been throwing my huge Buds for botrytis.I have read about your posta and Bayer serenade,would someone help me ? I am getting botrytis even with a lot of air circulation,and with temperature in check of 25-22° C.It Is very frustrating.
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Sorry to here of your rot problems. As far as i know budrot has nothing to do with soil and everything to do with genetics and humidity. Get yourself a dehumidifier to lower moisture to 40 or 50%. Id go 40 to be safe. The Coco is holding more water and thus is raising your room humidity.
Sounds to me like your botrytis went to spore. Nothing you can do at this point except making a inhospitable environment for spore germination= lower your humidity. If you have any questions about what needs to be cut away from your bud send a couple pictures.
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Sorry for missing your post @MrWizard. The preflowers that need to be removed are the ones that swell up before flowering gets rollling along.
The calyxes you are showing are fine to leave because there is no flower forming around it. The pre flowers located in the floral clusters, especially those at or near branch ends cause issues, but i donât know that an autoflower has a long enough flowering duration to cause issue. It is when these calyxes die of old age and turn brown that they can cause an issue. Ime 6 weeks after they form they start to die. Itâs important to find them and remove them Before the flowers form around them. If you ping me back i will get some pictures of what i am talking about.
I like removing these calyxes when they are mature, but before they brown up but i have paid for this before by missing my window and have had to pick thru buds later to pull them out because i waited too long. Often, a plant in a 5 gallon container will yield enough mature calyxes to provide a bowl of smoke to judge early potency/ flavor of your plant. It wonât be prime smoke but is enough to find your best lady.
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I have Buds that are drying and all of Them got budrot developing slowly,when pry opened It released a lot of those spores that are now going to infect my last plant harvested Yesterday(which also had budrot in some flowers)
I have now my home filled with spores basically.4 plants out of 4 got It and drying Is a hell now.Still,getting the rot even in drying buds
I m salvaging what I can and going to make a QWET extraction at least
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@Andrexl Youâll need to flash dry or freeze your pot. Donât cure it either. Keep it frozen after its dry. Bummer. When you see that spore cloud its bad news.
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Shit It growing while I dry.That Is the issue
Should I fast dry?
Get a dehumidifier going asap. Lose the fan. It blows spores around. If you think the spores nailed the buds youâll have to flash dry, yes.
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Cut up your colas and lose the stems which delay drying. Youâll be able to find all the Bud rot that way
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Dehumidifier Is going to be overkill in Electric Bill,my room Is big,and the tent Is also 80*80 cm,not so small, canât keep up the rythm with a Little dehumidifier
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I feel for you. 25 years growing Afghani in NY outdoors bush style has given me oodles of budrot experience. Itâs heartbreaking.
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Would cutting the Buds out of the stems and drying only Buds help?
I trashed a whole plant
Also,I have 2 per bunnies at home,I probably got the spores from the Hay I buy and feed them,100% sure,never had It before in 3 past grows in soil before going Coco though
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Best you can do is thoroughly look over that last plant And anything that is suspicious looking get rid of it. The root of the fungus can be as far as 1" from the Budrot. Keep cutting away stems until they no longer have that white interior. Youâll know what I mean. If you find a piece of rot , snip it off flush and look at the stem. Youâll see the white fungus. Keep snipping away the stem until its green.
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Personally I think spores are in the air everywhere this time of year. It comes down to genetics that are resistant or they are not.
That Coco is surely keeping excess humidity in your space. Go back to soilđ
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Soil Is not an option at the Moment,but I could go for a soil approach to Coco,letting Coco dry out a Little instead of keeping It Always saturated
@Upstate
I thank you so much,also I asked Bayer for instructions for the Serenade treatment
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That serenade Is supposed to be OK right up till harvest but I donât think Iâd wanna smoke itâŚ
At any rate, just Shake It Up and spray The areaâs most at risk. Unless you have more than 2 weeks of flowering left i think I would skip it this time
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For the next crop,I might switch to a soil approach for Coco and using 1 liter pots,also keeping Serenade at home and If the problem arises I will use It,giving out here more info on this treatment.
Surely if I use After harvesting Iâll do a bath in h2O2 + water and then let It dry.
Being It a biological and approved treatment used for grapes,fruits and vegetables in general It should be ok if a tad Is ingested.I ll let you all know After they answer my emails
@Upstate
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Serenade works great as a preventative, but itâs much cheaper to make your own version. Lots of people here on overgrow to help you do such a thing. Spraying with Compost tea works in a similar fashion, Coating the leaves with friendly bacteria and inhabiting the areas that Botrytis fungal spores would otherwise take root on.
Serenade is safe right up until harvest, but I would still be concerned that it might affect flavor. It sounds like you have a plan for that though. Please ping me let me know how you made out.
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