Mold, the buds just condensate when temp raises to fast when lights turn on. You need to pre heat your buds an hour or 2 before lights turn on. Then use sun rise function on your lamps or just start half of your lights an half hour later for a more slow delta in temp rise between day and night.
65 70 percent rh during night and 55-60 rh lights on would be nice. 40 percent rh like some advice definetely lower your plant performance.
It might lower plant performance slightly for those big buds if yer just looking for weight to sling but it makes em super frosty at lower humidities and there’s no funk. (I’ve seen bud rot twice in 35 years of grows. Once outside, once inside)
I have my grow in the basement humidity can become a problem with the plants and washing machine down there. Most of the year I only have to turn on the air or heat and the humidity in the basement plumments into the 40% range. When I use the waching machine I turn on the dehumidifier until I am done and the humidity drops into the 50% range.
I’ve never seen rot on an indoor grow. I am a HPS and Metal Halide fan. Outside is a different story. I’m worried about rot right up until harvest. I try to avoid the “big bud” types outside. I like smaller main colas and “meatball” buds for outside.
Grow pure landrace sativas that are accustomed to jungley or wet 90% humidity conditions, then you can avoid trying to play God/controlling the environment or using synthetic sprays
I find in flower i need to have a dehumidifier on during lights out. As soon as the lights go out the temp goes way down and humidity spikes a good 20%. I didn’t realize this until i got a pulse for my grow. I bet alot of people get this humidity spike when lights go out.
Mold doesnt propagate readily in environments below 55rh as many have said so i shoot to have my tent below that with good airflow. It helps if you can schedule your flowering periods for the typically dryer parts of the year. Not always possible but helps a lot. I also keep leaf debris cleaned up so there is no dead material for it to propagate on.
Lollipop and defoliate the upper canopy to help avoid microclimates in the canopy. I usually set my climate probe into the canopy so the climate control is tracking the most humid part of the tent.
Some plants are also just really susceptible to molding even if you do everything right. I remember one time having a plant 100% lost to mold, just rotten in every cola but no other plant in the tent was affected.
I’ll usually buck chunky plants down to single branches and remove fans before they dry. Smaller plants i do whole plant dry but if its too big i feel more comfortable and havent gotten mold bucking it up
This could be a good resume of measures to be taken:
Prevention measures.
Cleaning:
Cleaning is essential when carrying out a crop. A clean and disinfected place will not only help to avoid the presence of fungi, but also other harmful pests that affect our cannabis plants such as the red spider or whitefly.
Before indoor cultivation, it is important that the area used for indoor cultivation is properly disinfected with bleach. Clean utensils should also be used, and a constant hygiene of the place should be maintained throughout the process, eliminating dead leaves and any residual waste. Once the crop is finished, we must clean and disinfect the space again, so it is free of any organism.
It is also important not to use rainwater directly as rainwater may contain debris that could infect our plants.
Climate control.
The right conditions to prevent fungi appearing requires good ventilation in our growing area and controlling humidity.
The room where it is grown must be permanently ventilated, preventing stagnant air from remaining for a long time and constantly renewing it.
We must also control the humidity that should not exceed 50%, especially in the flowering phase. To do this, we can use dehumidifiers that absorb the humidity of the environment preventing it from triggering.
If you are growing in an area that doesn’t have the best air quality (old basement for ex) the best thing you can do is to control the humidity with dehumidifier. Filtering your air with hepa filters can also help.
I grew in an old dingy basement for many years. I had to keep a dehumidifier right in the flower room and maintain the humidity at 40% to avoid mold, especially on the insides of big colas.
Also, humidity tends to spike at night after lights out because the air cools and can’t hold as much moisture. So running a dehumidifier at night is a must IMO.
I periodically Run an Ozone generator in my tents for 15 min twice in one day every 2 months and it has a water treatment attachment on it and i also use that to break chlorine out of my water.Thier like 130$ on amazon ive been using mine for almost 2 years now i dont ever get mold in my grows anymore
Healthy plants is really key… ive been getting mold starting on decaying plant matter. Usuually seed husks inside nugs… i guess pollination time also plays a factor, when pollen chucking…
I had a few issues with the humidifier so humidity hit 80% for a day or two, i think that was the culprit lately, but since dehuey been running at 45%.
Do yall think that low RH (<45%) will avoid mold ? Or there is still some chances?
Usually inside main colas, it starts with little red dot molds, which if left turns into the classic bud rot… i tossed a good amount on the compost pile already…
Genetics also huge…
Air circulation def helps… ive heard before 2x air circulation per minute… is that overkill?
Interesting on the ozone generator… might have to consider it and do more research!
Also gonna bleach everything around after this run, but since running organics, spores will be present in soil…
I’d run the humidity at 40% if you can. I’ve found that 45% can still allow some mold growth in that old dingy basement I grew in. But again it all depends on your environment. In my other spot I can run the humidity at 50-55% throughout flower without issue. But in that old basement it had to stay at 40% or below to avoid issues.
It also might be worth throwing a hepa air purifier in your room.
I like the germ guardian ac4825. Germ guardian has been around forever and there’s lots of cheap aftermarket filters available. It also has a UV light built in. The bigger germ guardian purifiers (5000 series) also have a UV light but because the bulb is much bigger the light leaks out into the room. Where as with the smaller model that doesn’t seem to happen (at least that I’ve noticed).
An ozone generator will kill mold spores but you need to be really careful that you vent all the ozone out before you go into the room. You don’t want to be breathing that in.