i read the ad. it said it was a foliar spray that helped with bud development. i just want to know how to feed plants normal nutes and not burn them. i don’t think a foliar spray is required, but i didn’t notice anything on metabolism. also, i wont foliar spray in flower ever. interesting if it does increase metabolism.
Wanna make sure i’m clear that my suggestion wasn’t a promotion but a suggestion. Many of us here on OG tried side-by-side comparisons with and without BBP and were all shocked which is why many of us here use the stuff.
When I use it I can do what you’re asking, and i’m not spraying it in flower. Treatment stops at flower week 1. For seeds though I spray throughout.
This isn’t the only way to do this but it does what it says. Bob (aka: @BudBusterPro) may chime in with a better explanation as he doesn’t advertise as the product sells itself once the effects are seen 
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Best of success @splinter7 and looking forward to seeing any other alternatives for you other that picking genetics that’ll tolerate these conditions more.
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cool. thanks. i am generally skeptical of a lot of the nutes. even Si…i can’t prove to myself it does anything at all. i ran it on the same strains with and without, but I still am getting the same buds and same weighed down stems. i think i am getting better results with the bloom boosters (also to dial back N), but those gains are a bit elusive too.
i’ve been looking for something to add to get to the next level, maybe this is it. CO2 is not possible. if the problem is overfeeding with small amounts of nutes, then maybe it will help if metabolism is up.
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Every pot grower should purposely overdose some throwaway plants to see what it actually looks like.
Nitrogen toxicity leads to photosynthesis toxicity, leading to protein toxicity, cannabinoid toxicity and terpene toxicity?
Show me one fat person who got less fat and dried out from eating more food.
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Are you suggesting i am not overnuting?
The potassium and boron pics look the same to me…both culprits by pic. neither are easy to fix as my nutes are set in the ratios they come in. i don’t know anyone that says use x brand nutes, but you are going to have to add boron because they didn’t put enough. Even K should be quite abundant. I run plants with no notable defficiencies on the same nutes too.
So, if i am deficient, perhaps larger doses of the regular bloom nutes will fix up any micronutrient issues. Not sure what to do about the K if that is the issue. the regular bloom nutes have K. I also add even more k with the koolbloom.
The magnesium deficiency pic looks funny. I know what mine looked like in veg, but your looks way different. magnesium only impacts the bottom of my plants afaik. calcium the top.
I know some have already posted similar comments, but I have it typed, so I’ll share my thoughts, too.
Do you measure the runoff? Arguably more significant than the input, as per those who ‘specialize’ in this field.
Do you have an IR thermometer? If you’re plants are like most under led, they’re 4-8 degrees F below ambient air temp.
Do you know what the 230ppm is? Can you find out (online, for your municipality)?
Can you test your light output in PPFD? “Photone” app is free/cheap (for the extra spectrums), and for iPhone it’s very well pre-calibrated, for Android it depends on device - but can still be calibrated after the fact if need be.
If you pick up some dry ferts when your liquid runs out, it’d be even cheaper. Just something to consider. Check out @lefthandseeds post on “how to use hyrdobuddy”, or greengenesgarden video(s) on it. Or, the creator of the app, Daniel Fernandez has some blog posts on his website (scienceinhydroponics.com) about how to use the app (I haven’t read’em yet, bookmarked though. I know how to use it well enough for my current needs).
That necrosis isn’t necessarily “tip burn from too high an EC”, as is the common advice. It could be cause by many different things, including ph, too low an ec, nutrient antagonisms, etc. I’m not an expert, just sharing what I know about. I got tired of hearing “nute burn” on the tips, and then reducing EC, only to have the problem persist or worsen. So I tried increasing the EC, on the logic of something I had read, and it solved the issue - temporarily (came back in flower if I recall correctly). It could actually be the beginnings of one or more deficiencies, such as calcium (correct me if I’m wrong, this is what I remember), and the remedy for that isn’t necessarily “adding more calcium”.
If you’re in “hydro” (pure perlite would certainly be that) you should never be watering with plain water.
Sounds like high “alkalinity”?
Won’t make a difference for chloramine. Call city/municipality, tell them where you live, and ask where your water comes from (source) and what type of sterilization they use.
Probably drop all the “additives” and extras, and stick with the 3-part, until you can get something figured out. Adding more stuff, like products or co2 isn’t likely going to help the situation, in my opinion, and mostly from experience.
These is what you “need” (silicon “optional”) in certain amounts (elemental ppm, your meter’s “ppm” isn’t measuring anything but electrical conductivity), at certain ratios).
N (NO3-)
N (NH4+)
P
K
Mg
Ca
S
Fe
Mn
Zn
B
Cu
Si
Mo
Anyone feel free to correct mistakes, as always.
yes, i do measure run off…it’s usually the same as what i put in or a little higher.
yes, i have IR. i measure vpd in real time, but it’s all over the place as the tent fans cycle on and off according to the humidity and temperature controllers. i have suspected vpd as being the culprit.
don’t know the base content of the tap water. grass grows green. plants love it indoors and out. i can smell the cholorine. i haven’t noticed any benefit to setting it out other than making sure it is cool. water is warm in the summer.
yes, photone was around 550 to 650ppfd at canopy. any more than that, most plants do not like it.
liquid ferts all the way. it’s already cheap. my yields are much better yields and smells than others in town that use say maxibloom (also a gh product) in the same setup. the floranova has kelp which is a bit different from a lot of offerings.
i do wonder if sometimes i am getting a defficiency instead of toxicity. when switching to plain water, i have still noticed some very light tip burn on a few plants.
i have done both with and without nutes for the last week or two, for ages. there is not much difference. one just saves money. there are still nutes in the medium. i also think there is some benefit it has on the cure. native rh is often under 40% inside. plants will be dry in 4 days even with rh control in a tent. and a humidifier on to bring it to like 45%. some parts of the year are different. if i can speed up cure, then i need to.
of course the water has chloramine. i live in US.
why would i drop the additives? i get way bigger buds when using koolbloom. i get interveinal chlorosis and spots when i don’t use calmag.
i use gh nutes. it has everything it’s supposed to for most plants. been using it for nearly 10 years. lots of people use it just fine.
maybe i don’t need more ppm. really, i just want prettier plants. yields are great. terps are great. maybe they could be better if the plants were perfect. i think the ppm meter is not accurate with floranova due to all the organic content. i get N claw if i nute to 550ppm for a few weeks in a row. so, it has the nutes. some plants love it.
Bud candy is something to have in the arsenal
It is magnesium nitrate plus a little extra Carbohydrates… Also always mix your Cal mag first so you make sure your micronutrients gets in there botanicare is a little bit better than the other brands because it has boron and other selenium that’s not listed on the formula.
I just don’t like the smell and the taste that it gives I tend to cut it out after day 30 switch magical… That’s just me 
i haven’t tried any of the extra extras yet. Si was about it…from the ‘it may help, but we don’t know yet scientifically’ category. if i am running sterile or letting the medium get dry, what would carbs do to the plant? they don’t eat carbs/sugars afik, they make sugars in the kreb cycle though. bacteria, that i may not have, eat sugar though. I am not sure what bacteria would do with a bunch of chelated nutes in a salt nute regime.
am i missing something here?
Yes correct they use the sugars as carbohydrates and turn gives them energy
With the Bud Candy the magnesium nitrate helps with the new growth and the sugar/carb.
You got to be careful with a lot of things that you’re using the silica that you’re using is potassium which we said looks like you have potassium toxicity for me they’re one of the many things you’re using the cool Bloom dry and the silica, both run really hot just keep that in mind with both of the products less is more.
Also don’t grow like a robot, use different things at different times, you don’t always have to cram everything all at once don’t think that you’ll miss something by not adding it. I hope this helps, 
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Great point. I like to do a couple feedings sometimes 3 shortly apart. Break the volume down and change up and add other supplements. I like to micro dose frequently and change my shit up.
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cool bloom dry gets used very late. i had the issues in week 2 to 4 of flower. i wasn’t using kool bloom then. kool bloom dry come even later and that is when my plant perk up a lot.
i had the issue without Si. i ran all the moms of these clones with no Si,. same outcome.
I use about a quarter of the strenght of koolbloom liquid when i use it.
i use about a quarter or less of the GH standard bloom nutes.
all issues happen before using extras.
i am using 500 ppm or so. nothing is hot.
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honestly don’t have time for special nute regimes and experimentation. the only differentiation i can make is for flower time. i have a program I built that determines feed based on set schedules, start dates of flower and expected flower times…they get adjusted on the first run as i don’t know the timing yet.
i’ve seen a few professional setups, some were automated and then a few that require manual adjustment of nutes.
one guy was just using what is basically a soap dispenser…one pump of x two pumps of y. and no issues. it was mindless…and stress free. that’s where i want to be.
i had pretty good success with a fixed regime in my old setup. was a garage tent with ~500w of blurple. great buds. plants looked wonderful. running the same nutes as i am now.
now with more strains, I guess variety is working against me. still, buds are great on the outcome. any ugly leaves are gone at the trim, but that doesn’t really fix the problem.
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Did you ever check the runoff I don’t recall, or your numbers… This is my last angle to come at it to see what your problem is?
watering in a bit…lights are on in like 5 minutes. will report back today.
output wasnt’ too far off from input. a little higher sometimes. will get fresh reading today
ok, the last plant that i am still feeding. it looks good. i just gave it 548ppm. out was 866.
So, I am overnuting…
I have had great success with fixed regime. I like to add my supplements and find that not feeding them all at once works better when micro dosing nutrient feeds.
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ok, just checked again without the residue on the drain trays…just 790 out.
i used to alternate between feed bloom nutes, and then calmag and boosters on the other feed that week. that was a good grow. i might have to switch it up.
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