I’m all about using what works!
Non soil growers may not want the Ammonical N contained in Monoammonium Phosphate. From my experience and readings, it can cause PH issues - with coco/hydro.
I suffer from precip paranoia. lol
I’m all about using what works!
Non soil growers may not want the Ammonical N contained in Monoammonium Phosphate. From my experience and readings, it can cause PH issues - with coco/hydro.
I suffer from precip paranoia. lol
In how much water did you do this preparation?
you mix the dry chemicals together, and then use at the rate listed in the recipe
then i mix in dry 908,19 and 90,81 and use 1 tsp per 5 gallons ?.
not mixing all in quart of water and re-diluted after ?.
Sorry but my english is very bad.
regards from argentina!
yes that is correct, add the combined dry ingredients, and use 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water at first, then increase to 2 tsp per 5 gallons in late flowering
Hey my man. From one of your posts years ago. How much of that blend to a gallon of water? Thanks! Hope you’re well and perfectly high! I’m experimenting with some MOAB. I remembered getting great results with your mix but lost it in my phone somehow. Have you changed anything or updated? Thanks again.
Blessings…
^ this is good advice. In general, adding N in late flower will increase yield and decrease potency. NH4 is a very small molecule and is absorbed something like 3x faster than NO3.
+1 this is the way
1 gram of 50/50 mix adds these ppms per gallon. With salts, 0.5g/gal of amendments is a good number. 1g/gal is usually the most I’d use.
@lefthandseeds. Should I reduce my base 50% when using the 50/50 mix? Thanks! It was recommended to me to cut my base mix by 50% when using MOAB.
If you are getting all of your micronutrients from your feeds (iron, manganese, boron, etc) you might not want to go all the way down to 50%. That would be the main thing I’d consider. I think it’s OK to reduce Ca a bit at the end, because K, Ca and Mg antagonize each other. But the plant really gets K hungry after stretch.
Thanks Lefty! That cleared all my questions. It’s good to have really smart friends when you’re a Shitkicker! Take care man.
Blessings…
I started using KNO3 instead, works better with Dyna-Gro which is weirdly low-K and high-P.
For most formulas MKP/K2SO4 works beautifully. I use it on the outdoor plants, tomatoes go crazy. I also like that the mix of the 2 isn’t nearly as acidic as pure MKP. Maybe even 1/3rd MKP, 1/3rd K2SO4, and 1/3rd KNO3 would be real nice. Unsure how they’d interact in solution.
If you want to balance the acidity, you can also use DKP along with MKP. Something like 1/3 DKP and 2/3 MKP is pretty close to pH 6. Equal parts I’d expect to be close to neutral.
OK…got it! Now what the hell is DKP? I haven’t had so many bags of white powder since the 80s!
“I can get you a toe, dude”
The toe is paramount but can you just translate the K2SO4 etc. to English for me? In a way a Shitkicker can understand? I might have some. IDK. Thanks brother. Be well my friend.
Potassium sulfate
Thanks Lefty! That cleared all my questions.
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What is DKP? Last question I promise! I’m confident I have some.
Mono potassium phosphate?
@lefthandseeds. Still .5 to 1gram per gallon of water? From wk 2 of flower to flush?
Thanks again!
Yeah that amount is true of almost any standard salt when amending to the base mix.