I went from seedless reggie to private shelf 'emerald cup is a joke' level of dank with 1 secret ingredient.. Hi

I had poor success indoors until understanding this simple concept…

Heat stress is a myth!

Canoeing, light burns, bleaching… Fox tails… I never had those problems outdoors under the sun. I eventually figured out it was LIGHT sensitivity, not heat sensitivity, and this is why the sun did no harm:

Outdoors, the UV spectrum from the sun signals the plant to create hydroxycinnamatic acids that protect the plant from intense sunlight. In other words UV actually protects the plant from the sun. With greenhouse/indoor settings, UV is low, and cannot protect the plant from intense light.

The fix? Did we need to supplement the hydroxycinnamatic acids & add UV lighting?

Or…

Can nutrition fix everything?

It can.

It did.

It does.

I discovered the secret ingredient to dank in a 1994 Brazilian ag consultant handout:

I couldn’t tell a potassium deficiency from a bug infestation at the time. Jorge wasn’t helping. Neither was RC. I went out and bought a drum of potassium sulfate and haven’t been without since. I made sure to ignore the sponsored cannabis media guys after that. They probably sold potassium sulfate in High Times under a special Rasta influenced title at 100 times the price, I dunno. I never learnt a thing looking at brand names. Being sold fertilizer just made me dumber about fertilizer, not realizing how simple it all is. It’s chemicals. It’s plants. Don’t put a thought into it. The work has been done. And we have Google now. (it was Alta Vista and Dogpile back then)

Here’s the secret behind the secret…

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You need to push micronutrients hard during mid flower. Hard enough to nearly antagonize sulfur. You want to do this before starting potassium sulfate, so you can then build the sulfur back up. Doesn’t matter if youre aeroponic or recycled vegan moon soil, it’s the same plant and the same fertilizer, the timing isn’t that different. The potassium sulfate readily dissolves, unlike sul-po-mag. This, people, is how to get them old school weed enzymes popping.

People often pat themselves on the back for high Brix ° leaves, but all it means to me is the sugars are not flowing to the sinks. You have to evaluate and take every part of the plant into consideration when attributing asset values.

Too long didn’t read: I’ve been growing plants for 30 years and have seen way too much Nitrogen. Way too much Phosphorus. Not enough potassium. And not enough micronutrients along the way. The trend hasn’t changed. The marketing has. Everyone stumbles until they separate P and K in practice and in the smokable end product. You cannot obtain primo quality by flushing all nutrients. Only nitrogen and phosphorus should be cut when silk hairs stop multiplying. Not potassium. Not micronutrients.

Harvest when pots are on the dry side. 80 degrees maximum, 40% rh minimum, 5 days hanging minimum. No special bags or freezers needed. No candy sweeteners. If your root bennies were in order and your cuts weren’t already ODed on Phosphorus at some point, you will have dank weed no doubt about it.

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Great read. Love talking salts. Can I ask what elemental ppm you suggest running for micronutrients?

very interesting read. I am using Jacks nutrients right now. What kind of dosage do you recommend?

Excellent post.

A couple years ago, I figured out the ‘dialing back the lights’ at the first sign of trouble would minimize damage. Once sorted, start upping the light intensity.
Initially I thought it was Phosphorous but a little work proved that wrong.
This last year has been an education in using mycorrhizal inoculants, a great addition.
I’ve also been playing with a low light intensity environment (clone & clone mother storage). I’ve noticed that plants can still soak up too much nutriments even when planted in seedling soil and water only.

All of that aligns with your info. So Potassium is the answer… :thinking:

Thanx & Cheers
G

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I use Megacrop 1 part and their P/K mix. I also use RO water, and coco/perlite.

I don’t know a lot about the science of mixing salts, but after a long enough time, and disasters, I can put some observations together, lol!

The P/K mix always burned my bloomers, no matter how much I used, so I quit it. Then read some folks using P/K in early veg, saying it made for better roots. I tried that, and it’s been working well. Even for seedlings and clones.

In bloom, I was getting crispy margins, and pinned it down to a K deficiency. Started adding KSO4 to the mix, and stopped seeing crispy.

While I think the KSO4 is important with the MC, I think Calcium is even more so. Not Cal/Mag. I’m using a 10% Ca, MC seems to have enough Mg. Ca and Mg are antagonistic, so I never did understand that mix, anyway!

I used to think my plants needed more Mg in veg because when they were growing quickly, they’d have yellowish new growth. I read something about that might be an iron deficiency, so gave some Fe a try, and that seemed to take care of it.

I go heavier with the Ca in transition from veg to bloom, back off a bit, then ramp it back up later.

I add some Silicon to all feeds., and let the pH slide between 5.6-6.2… lower for veggers, a bit higher for blooming.

I think S helps bring out lurking flavors. It works for veggies, why not weed?

TBH, I think there’s so many variables in everyone’s grows, the spaces, the grow styles, the nutes, the water, medium, pots and sizes, environments, attitudes, etc., that there’s not a one size fits all solution. It’s definitely worth tweaking things to see what works for them, and even more importantly for us, the plants.

I do wish folks would use ec when speaking of concentrations, it’s so much more universal, and exact.

Great topic, though, I do think K is underestimated :slight_smile:

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Nice read.

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This can be true o myth.
But was a good topic.

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Is there another product like the Liquid STEM, but in a smaller bottle and cheaper?

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I’ve noticed if I use a bunch of kelp my plants handle heat better. Must be the high K content.

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I use BioAg TM7

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@VAhomegrown their main line is basically additive to each other:

  • Ful-Humix
  • TM-7 (FH + 7 essential micros)
  • Cytoplus (TM-7 + Norwegian kelp extract)
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Right on! I’ll pick up some of that TM-7. I don’t need the kelp or the soluble potash in the CytoPlus. I use Roots Organics Terp Tea Bloom and their Bloom Booster in flower, so I can just toss that in my bucket when I make tea.

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3-1-4 + macros/micros. Anything else is a smoke show. Tweak as necessary. You need more calcium or Nitrogen? Bump Calcium nitrate. You need more Magnesium? Bump Epsom salts. Any necessary macros and micros are all there in Jack’s 5-12-26.

I love Peter’s. There is a reason the Ag industry loves their shit, because it works broadly across so many different plants.

If you want to use tribus, recharge, great white then go for it. They are just microbes but should improve the rhizosphere to aid in intake of Jack’s.

Edit to clarify that when I write 3-1-4 I am referring to N-P-K, not a mix ratio for Jacks

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this makes me happy i switched to jacks 3 2 1. feeding has never been easier. and… CHEAPER! has made feeding from a chore to a breeze. now just need to get an R,O system eventually and do half tap half r.o so im not in the 2500 ppm range at full dose.

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Excellent read and info here. And an awesome topic! I semi-experimented with the heat stress/light stress thing last Grow (not completely intentionally) I would have to concur with the heat stress statement. I’m actually planning on trying Jacks this spring and hope that it’s the one for me as with utilizing both coco and RDWC I need a happy medium.

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Your going to like jacks. I switched from miracle grow to jacks last summer for my outdoor grow. I used it with organics and boy does it do a good job! Buds taste better and heavier. A little bit of jacks with some organics goes a long way…

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I hope so…. Truly do

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You will. I have heard good things.

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For those in organic soil, or living soil, there’s a recipe in both JADAM, and Cho KNF for water soluble potassium from charcoal/tobacco stem charcoal as well!