going to be circling back for info and spreading the likes for some time.
giving this a try outdoors, get a good test of what temps the amazon pots can take, if anyone here knows that will fail (too hot) please tell me now lol.
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Greetings @shade,
I know people are using them outdoors without problems. Feel free to share your results here if you like.
-Grouchy
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If using a wicking material, do you guys think this base could be deployed with 6" Rockwool?
Good question.
I’d think not because part of the “Magic” seems to be the airgap between the netpot and the water in reservoir.
What do you think would be the advantage of Rockwool?
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Not sure really, aside from a sterile starting place. If the roots were coming out the bottom before getting setup on the octo, wouldnt an air gap be achievable? More or less just a highdea. If I get around to trying it, I will post up results.
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Will it work if I use nylon ropes as wicking material and just punch a couple of holes in the tub underneath and then weave the rope through the tub and pot?
Air gap in octo is by design . Absolutely no aeration in the rez.
Transplant at level 1 or tiny bit above . Keep level constant . Plant gets situated , level raised to 2 . Stay at 2 until mid flower , then to 3 . Dry back every fill . Plants have 3,days easy on dry rez. Big fabric sleeves need dry back in my opinion I do total dry back week 5 of flower , dry for 3 or 4 days . Next fill is when I start my full flower nutes . Level kept too high with smaller plants will soak whole sleeve top to bottom , defeating the entire purpose . Feed from bottom and bottom 1/3 of sleeve .
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Hello everyone!
I just had two questions if anyone could chime in that would be great!
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What added precautions can be taken to ensure that the float valve doesn’t fail as that’s the single piece of equipment preventing the flooding?
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If the method needs to be replicated on a larger scale, how do I fit in a pump in the picture so the tubs get refilled faster?
Since I guess the height of the rez will be limiting factor if the number of pots increase, right?
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1.) Flood tray - hydro shops sell 4x4 or 5x5 sized ones for tables or tents. Under bed totes from rubbermaid work well in a 2x4 tent
2.) You would not want to use a pump. Increase irrigation tube diameter first.
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It might help if you build a little model system, like I did at the top of this thread, to help you understand the dynamics of the system with a little hands on.
I hope this helps,
-Grouchy
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Thanks @GrouchyOldMan and @PatioMat for your replies!
Unfortunately flood trays are not available in my country and importing them is expensive af because of their size! I guess I’ll have to make DIY those.
Regarding the irrigation tube diameter, yeah that’s the answer but finding fittings that snap on like the RO ones do are tough to find.
I have 1/2 inch piping available, any ideas on how to split those to individual pots as the aquarium air valve wont be of much use there I guess
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Take a look at drip system irrigation tubing and fittings. That stuff will scale as big as you like. I use that in my orchard with good results.
That’s a half inch pipe right?
You use that like autopots?
I guess when using 1/2 inch piping, the air valve splitter would be replaced using T junctions which are easy to find.
I had tried this way but the water in the pipe started getting warm due to the lights 
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Yep, about half inch, .620 & .700 I think. Big enough for trees or a Forest of CannaFire!
Just how big a grow are You thinking?
It doesn’t quite work that way. As soon as the octopot reservoirs drop below the “Controller” water level, the float valve drips and flow begins from the big rez through the float valve/Controller and out to the pots. That flow continues until all the octo pot reservoirs are high enough to shut the float valve.
Your plan is ambitious for the MicroOctopot auto fill described here. 34 mature plants in octopot veg could easily drink a gallon each per day.
You’d be well served to make a small model to better understand how it works, then scale up the tubing size and pick your components based on that.
Please share your design and the outcome with us.
-Grouchy
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Absolutely will!
It’s thanks to you that I have figured out this system so I’ll definitely be sharing my journey here.
I understand what you’re saying about starting small and I’ll be beginning in my current setup with just 5 plants so I get a hang of it.
Regarding the 35 plant site, they’ll be clones and I’ll be training them to grow a single cola and will be switched immediately to flower, but yes, I have accounted for a gallon/day/plant and I’ll be sizing my rez and refill operations accordingly.
I just wanted to know if I could calculate the refilling rate so I could choose between the pipes available.
I’m currently leaning towards the pipe of 3/8 inches which has push fittings available
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Good thinking on all points @kevinmalone.
To keep things simple, consider standard orchard / veggie drip system pipe, 1/2" because it is indestructable (mostly) and the fittings of all kinds are dirt cheap, and you can just make the backbone 1/2" then easily plug the 1/4" tubing & fittings we’re using here. What matters, is that there is enough volume coming from Big Rez to Controller to each 1/4" tube to the individual Octo pots.
You’ll still end up moving a lot of fluid through the system, but I think that’s what I’d try.
Staying Tuned…
-Grouchy
PS, post some pics!
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Thanks Grouchy!
I’m still at the planning stage and will have to wait for a couple of months to get funds for the insulation and other equipment that I need 
When you mean enough volume, do you mean that as pressure?
Because the rez will be a 50 gallon barrel, so it’ll keep the control box filled up for sure and quickly too!
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Hey!
So my rez is 50 gallons and the control box is the same box as the other pots.
I read Grouchy’s comments about using a pressure reducer and just to be on the safer side and since it’s easily available, I’d like to use it
I have this one available
Where do I put it though? Can I use it between the control box and the plants?
Since I might end up using the half inch piping from the rez to the control box and the float valve.
Also, I’ll be using the half inch piping as the main line from the control box and use the 1/4mm as laterals as Grouchy suggested.
Any suggestions as to the positioning of the bulkhead adaptor on the individual pots?
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Between the res and control box is where to place flow reduction.
As far as bulkhead placement, it shouldnt really matter, but it is best to keep the lines from the control box to the plants relatively equal length.
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