maybe outside temperature is to coold. I have an aquarium heater inside which, heats around 18 to 20 degree celsius.
No mush with the chlorine.
Do the stems change the shape and get thick without rooting hormone?
You can see what happens above, there is a single tiny root poking out of the side of the stem. Eventually it will all be roots.
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You need an aquarium heater this time of year mines set at 68f. I use LIGHT nutes like few ml of grow bloom micro to 8 gallons what ever is in my reservoir . I use bleach at few ml per 5 gallons. If you have stuff growing in there bleach wont kill it adding more than that.
If your stems are turning limp . 1 either you cuttings stems arent healthy enough or the cuttings themselves arent big enough is my guess from my previous fuck ups. Ot the stems are to wet. Get a repeating adjustable timer. I use 3 minutes on 10 off.
Can I see a clone?
I havent changed my cloning water in 6 months maybe longer.
The stems turn yellow from to much chlorine I noticed when I over did it.
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I will later retry the aeroclone. I think I didn’t give it enough time. At the moment I use the normal cloner (rooting plugs with clonex and chlorinated water) with pretty good success.
It takes 2 -3 weeks sometimes to get roots , strain dependants.
Use a fresh node from the top of your plant . 3 4 nodes tall and I use 40watt true led. I tried less 9 watts and my cuts would barley root.
The noticable changes that helped me were adjustable repeating timer and a small aquarium heater is a must this time of the year. Plant sugars won’t move in the cold. 70f is perfect. To hot you’ll have mushy stems.
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Always people over thinking cloning…
Clones are the easiest part of the grow world.
Simple cloning-
1- Get rid of the humidity domes! Keeping the leaves soaking wet is not helping anything. The cuttings are drawing water they need to survive through the stem, not the leaves. And keeping the leaves wet is only going to cause wilting or promote fungus growth.
2- keep it simple. Cloning is cheap and easy. I’ve been making my own aero clones for 20 years now. Bucket with lid, 6 small net pots, a 50gph pump, some black poly hose, T fitting and a couple spinners.
Yea, I know it’s dirty right now. It’s about to get sterilized again. I just made some clones.
But I get 100% rooted clones EVERY TIME!
One of THE BIGGEST MISTAKE people make when cloning is to do a straight cut on the clone stem. The cut needs to be a 45 degree cut or water will hang on the butt end of the stem and cause it to turn black and rot.
I use just 3 cap fulls of clonex clone solution in the 2.5 gallons of water I put in my cloner, and I do adjust the ph.
Oh yea, and the one thing I do that I do that I hardly ever see anyone doing is I take a razor blade, at a 90 degree angle, and lightly scrape the outer surface of the clone stem, just “barely breaking the skin” so to speak. This makes it easier for the new roots to pop out.
This is my method, and I’ve got a whole tutorial, with pictures on another forum that goes from cutting them off the mother to them being rooted that I’ll bring over here too.
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cut at a 45 degree angle is most important? What if I showed you clones that I clone all the time and never cut at an angle. In fact, I never make a cut, instead I rip it off with my fingers.
I demand evidence that a 45 degree angle cut is important in any way. Sorry, it’s just who I am
I also never ph it, and never use rooting hormone/cloning gel.
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Here it says because that way there’s more surface available to absorb water, makes sense, also other useful tips … 
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ok I can drop a bomb on that. You make what’s known as a “heel cutting” where a sliver of the mother plant is still attached to the bottom of the cutting. The problem here, is in my lifetime, I have never seen a 45 degree cut on any clone in a botany textbook. There are different types of clones, but none requiring a specific angle cut prescription to make it root.
Here’s what I have seen…in real life, this is broscience. I cloned trees, flowers, and herbs. I always read up on what “type” of cloning I have to perform - but it never includes instructions saying cut at a specific angle. ok the real “secret” to having an apple tree root, or grapefruit is to maintain a minimum of 75% humidity or the cutting will shrivel up and die.
We’re talking about cannabis here. A plant I would consider “hyper-easy-cloning” right up there with a tomato plant or a basil plant. I can clone a pepper plant the same way I clone a cannabis plant.
Right, so what I recommend, ahem, is a quick viewing of some botany write-ups from ubc or something, not the broscience from cannabis cloning, as “expert advice”.
So, to circle back to my original claim, I claim that 45 degree angle cuts are broscience and not needed to root a clone - of any plant.
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Oh well, I’ve got much respect for you and not going to argue, I’ve seen that recommendation in many sites, it is not difficult to follow 
so just for thinking I am doing the best for rooting I will keep with it.
It is just a question of following the method that works for you and try others if don’t. Agree there’s a lot of “experts” out there, it’s our duty to filter the correct info, in this case my rooting results makes me confident with this tip so to each his own, we are always free to choose … 
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no it’s true I’m not the boss of you or anyone. But I was seriously hoping for some kind of evidence, you know, that would contradict my own observations. The problem is I have never seen any so I can’t make a link between those two things. Here’s the thing though, I can perform that experiment, it’s easy as pie. I’ll do it on my next run. I have a sharp blade here to do it. I propose said experiment: I will do the clones 50-50 with 45 degree and just ripped off like I always do. Then we can see how integral an angle cut is to the plants ability to root. Vegas odds on that?
yah yah I’m not like “starting an argument” or anything, I know that’s classic human but instead what I go for is something I call the “truth” hah hah I know even typing shit like that you’ll think I’m a turd but I promise you that’s not what I’m trying to go for! oh my rubs his temples
your reposte, sir?
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We are on different levels so it would not be an equal discussion, you spend hours in your safe and clean laboratory investigating 
with your microscope and devouring botanic and science books. Have always a scientific and empiric approach. I just grow for fun and willing to vape my own weed, read tons of broscience pages and watch weird-looking presumed experts YouTubers, just pick some ideas here and there and see if they work. 
I appreciate your will to do such experiment, any improvement in the techniques is an advance and this forum is a good place to share them. I see the only way to convince you is through your experiment so let’s roll the dices and see the result …
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The 45 degree cut increases the surface area of the wound. Perhaps more active area for the rooting hormone to act on? That is an easily testable theory. 
What has interested me lately are the reports of stimulated root growth by lightly damaging the lower external surface just above the cut. That exposes significantly more ‘wound’ to the rooting hormones. Now that’s something I want to ‘play with’. 
Cheers
G
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Yah the 45 degree angle that’s the broscience, I responded to it with a post about heel cuttings:
If it was about surface area, then wouldn’t the heel cutting work even better?
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That would innecessary wound the main stem, I think it is made for optimizing water intake, not necessary in soil upon this …
Gpaw, I slightly scarify with the blade the superficial skin of the stem which is in contact with the sponge and impregnate that zone with clonex. I use the Aerogarden Harvest with an airstone, works for me …
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ok! So if anyone wants to take a wack… here’s what a heel cutting looks like. Except mine is far more extreme than normal 
cause I’m a maniac. Here’s the thing, though, is that it basically falsifies the 45 degree thing as it is. Because I can produce quite a large surface area with this technique, which I would never recommend because it’s not needed, and indeed the technique is a waste of time. It wasn’t presented as something you should do, instead just as a different way of increasing surface area that really had no additional benefits to cannabis clones. Alright, so I said it was a waste of time, so then…why would someone even make a heel cutting, it makes no sense? The heel cutting technique is for “hard to clone” species. You take a bit of the mother wood because the growth node at the intersection contains high levels of auxins.
I didn’t use this post to reply to anyone, because I know…ahhh fuck and sadly, that this information I posted is highly offensive. Please believe me, I’m just basically copying information available to anyone I swear, I didn’t make this shit up, and I’m not posting it to be a turd to anyone. Thank you!
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I wonder what would think the mother about this technique , maybe the recommendation to cut just below a node is for the same reason , thanks for sharing … 
lol you know how to ask the questions! ok! I hope these series of images sums things up.
The first image is the plant I took that gnarly clone from. Second Image is the clone site. It took me a long ass time to find that thing!!! It was buried in dense ass foliage. You can judge for yourself if there was any substantial damage from removing the node.
Remember boys and girls, I’m not recommending this for cannabis, but if you are cloning a pine tree I would definitely do it. The reason I made the heel cuttings is unknown even to me, but perhaps just because I could do it, I did.
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45 degree angle is like sapping a tree the angle gives more surface area and sapping. If your using dirt or rock wool scratch it or splice slits to initiate the process of rooting in those areas. If your using aero or water can get away with anything.
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