Egzoset's 6th Year DiY Challenge for VaporGenie pipe Owners



Please feel welcome to appreciate Egzoset’s “LAVA” conceptual yet most enthousiast (and donated…) extension to VaporGenie’s intellectual property, initially invented by Dan Steinberg nearly 2 decades ago, then rightfully patented (US7434584-B2) and published in 2008.

Consequently lets keep in mind this is actually foccussed on legit VG owners prepared to void the warranty in order to explore possible DiY upgrades, hopefully inspired by my present personal 6th year testimony. In addition be advised that all requests involving material, commerce, services and/or even exchanges shall be promptly rejected simply because IT’S A HOBBY (e.g. centered on free cognitive contributions illustrated by a photo collection)…

Since 2010 the driving force of Egzoset ain’t ever been mercantile trade, not even a tiny bit and that’s all there is to say about the social “context” (e.g. pay no attention to anyone pretending that’s for self-serving financial benefit or similar ego-centric advancement)! The one thing to be found here has to do with “sharing the fun”, nothing else. As a result the purpose of my 6th-year dedicated thread is strictly restricted to providing eventual instructions on how to perform a transformation so that others than myself can acquire an independent capability to DUPLICATE & PEER REVIEW… The rest WILL be considered as potential hostile (obstructive) noise destined to be managed accordingly.

In other words no apparent advertising here is real, it’s a parody (seasoned with a mix of fantasy & proof-of-concept) merely intended to entertain while equally suggesting what the forgotten Fig. 11/12 item of Steinberg’s registered patent could have become, twenty-some years later…

Actually when only using a yellow flame the VG Classic pipe just needs the addition of a Core-PinHole to allow operators as myself to vaporize, instead of combust, while VaporGenie’s genuine 7+ mm thick SiC Puck can be trimmed down to ~2.9 then wrapped in some Brass Screen so it can be relocated inside the Screw-Base aperture (moving closer to its workload) - even in absence of a Metal Disc and/or SiC Front Puck (!), to be exact, which is something i didn’t realize until very recently, by accident…


Please refer to my previous dedicated thread for some background:

Now here’s my trick about On-Top Core-PinHoles:

It appears injection of Fresh Air directly behind the Brass Screen (inside my Hybrid Core) extends protection of a bowl’s vegetal load during the “Pre-Heating” phase (with very little inhalation force necessary in presence of clean-burning butane extra-hot exhaust gases…), then this main PH can be obstructed to proceed with the actual vape phase as usual. Of course a “purge” is equally desirable to empty the path (the Bronze Sherlock auxiliary cavity under its bowl has a tendency to retain particles in its vortex, while i definitely feel a Core-PinHole helps to release tension from succion pressure).

Below this is a recent duo with hybrid core details, including its metal Disc.

The benefit of a complete Hybrid Core instead of a trimmed down version is that this can handle power “Micro-Bursting” with a twin-flames torch, in opposition to yellow “candle” like flames. Consequently i’ve begun evaluation of metal tops; brass being a bit dull and heavy, though it protects best against skin burns.

Next i guess i’ll have to start exploiting optional “Bio-Feedback” support, once my ritual with these last modifications have adjusted and life seems to be about too much routine again…


Good day, have fun!! :peace:


Hola @Egzoset

Tien tien tien !


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glad to see you post @Egzoset! how have you been? thanks for sharing your designs… this design is 20 years old you are telling me? i will check out the VG website

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Salutations LegalCanada,

glad to see you post @Egzoset!

Then i’m glad to be reminded there are exceptions! :wink:

how have you been?

M’well, spring made me creative recently. Lets have an update:

This is my alternative proposal meant to solve the excessive mass issues found in the DynaVap VapCap IMHO. But i’ve been having fun with my “Plan-B” too, actually. For example the PinHole feature which waited on my to-do list for years literally:

It started with plain cuts then i sized it down until it felt appropriate for some universal PH system which i’d want to remain compatible both with wood and metal tops, euh… Which makes me recall there were satisfying developments relatively to wood handles as well. Contemplate!

It’s not solved yet in the case of aluminium handles but i was effectively able to transfer my PinHole directly on a top while maintaining manual thumb control (see “Minion” yellow-blue prototypes posted earlier). As for the Bronze Sherlock it’s been even more satisfying to gain access to 2-fingers manual control of that same “Core-PinHole”, so my assotiated “ritual” now feels like operating a flying balloon or something similar… Success guaranteed, here’s what this involved:

When mounting the Monobloc inside a VG top it simply needs to have just the right orientation so that its corresponding “On-Top Core-PinHole” happens to conveniently align with my index finger, while the old PH version is still controlled by the thumb. Now it seems nearly impossible not to find a comfort zone with reasonable training. Too bad Dan Steinberg doesn’t appear to like this so far…

thanks for sharing your designs…

Sharing fun always was the main intention, sharing designs is only one vehicle among many to reach such goal while entertaining! :sunglasses:

this design is 20 years old you are telling me? i will check out the VG website

Here’s how i know:

The manufacturer who produces this novel material leaves little at random it seems, at least at the conceptual stage:

It’s a “Tetrakaidecahedron”, euh… :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Imagine, a matrix of highly heat-conductive branches perform some collective synergy between its multitude of individual air pockets, which i believe to explain how plain/bulk SiC can outperform metals and yet in foam form behave more like a heat insulator globally, depending on the situation. Briefly put i suspect it’s Borg technology imported direct from space, hence my Space-Age remark! … :innocent:

Anyway i suggest searching inside VaporGenie’s legal patents (7434584, 9445629) instead. Which will reveal that SiC foam wasn’t the only material considered, with mention of metal foam as i recall, for example…

Good day, have fun!! :peace:

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interesting stuff! I’d like to see a alternate heat source to the butane ligher. not sure it’s possible with vaporgenie-based design???


Salutations MuleSkinner,

I’d like to see a alternate heat source to the butane ligher.

Not just the butane, although this reconfiguration moves the metallic contact-surface away, on the side, i’d wish to someday experiment with an ALL-GLASS path, actually. By chance little conceptual/abstraction effort would be required to fill the gaps. Lets proceed!..

Here’s my proposal to solve an old apparent paradox opposing inert/pure glass vs hot metal altering aroma/taste while required in Induction heat mode; just imagine some coaxial set of glass tubes being integrated to such simple KISS-inspired idea as illustrated previously.


There’s no 3D drawing in my collection to assist, yet try envision an SiC Foam pellet contained inside a clear glass tube transparent to heat, itself surrounded by a ring-shaped Curie-alloy susceptor, all of it inserted inside a larger glass tube…

The result is an internal glass tube now actually corresponding exclusively to your lungs/cannabic path with ZERO metal in it because the susceptor ring has been separated by an air-tight glass barrier. So far so good!

Of course we find Silicon Carbide along such purist path though i consider it’s just as chemically-inert as glass. The Top-of-Bowl screen apparently got a tendency to stay clean since it’s made of metal, that’s to be considered but a lack of confidence relatively to the IH context tells me it better be optional. At least this will simplify what’s coming next: Power Injection.


I’m afraid the presence of a glass layer between such tubular susceptor and its SiC Foam target implies significantly increased delays and losses, yet this doesn’t defeat the idea of storing heat THROUGH that same glass: after all heat can also be carried by near-invisible radiation, hence passing the glass barrier practically at the speed of light - which translates as no delay compared to conduction by glass… Too bad the received energy won’t transform instantaneously, but i’m ready to bet sufficient Pre-Heating time and IH Power can “inject” a fair amount of temporarily-stored energy, long enough to allow matching it to its WorkLoad during a final inhalation phase (while soaking a bowl with heat only requires its associated SiC-contained Release/Trasport Agent (e.g. hot air pockets) to displace by a few mm at most. In addition lets mention the bowl is expected to be made of glass or ceramic, in order to preserve “purity” of the path.

The goal i believe might be to adjust the size of that SiC Foam pellet so it only contains the required Heat Charge (or “Q”), as a function of a bowl’s capacity. Curie alloys would be most desirable but i suppose other metals are also suitable if “scanned” to help evaluate a safety operation temperature: power injection cycles can be stolen to reduce IH output anyway.

Presence of a continuous magnetic field (from some electro-magnet or a natural magnet) would open the door to audio/ultrasonic applications IMO. Hence an other hypothesis of mine would be that air-shaking during the IH Power Injection phase might cause a gain of injection speed - e.g. in a “Micro-Bursting” context where more brief + more dense promotes aroma/taste appreciation a great deal.

In conclusion i submit that it may be worth having an energy budget where parasitic losses get redirected for more useful purposes, this ALL-GLASS concept conversion for example.

As always YMMV and it’s still missing Inlet Water, but at least that’s rational and potentially beneficial all at once!


not sure it’s possible with vaporgenie-based design???

Chances are a cut version of VG’s Monobloc made light enough could behave nearly the same as i just described, without an all-glass path…

Good day, have fun!! :peace:



Here are a few more snapshots showing how my Classic transformation concluded last week:

Take note of this full-metal Brass Top featured with a dual-path MANUAL (2-fingers!!) On-Top Core-PinHole, made to fit the Bronze Sherlock handle and yet also compatible with a fully-customized wood Classic handle. It’s even possible to evaluate manual 2-fingers PH operation on the Classic as well, though using both hands… But it works the same.

A simple cut through the annular part of a Monobloc would tend to collect vegetal debris, that is why i finally managed to drill a tiny hole of improved precision. Ain’t it perfectly aligned with the exact position of my Brass-Wrapped Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck?!

In any case my advice is to never even risk a scratch to the annular contact-surfaces of a monobloc’s Screw-Base and corresponding Bowl again: debris sticks to the larger metal alu./bronze counterpart, while on a wood Classic there’s much less contact-surface. E. G. no more cuts to that Bowl’s edge neither, actually!

Admire my substractive solution, only removing material if/when convenient… All Classic wood units should have it as the new internal PinHole routing combined to air-tight confinement now offers manual thumb-control of an On-Top Core-PinHole, even 2-fingers operation (with 2 hands) if desired.

Fresh Air injected right near the end of my Hybrid Core appears to be much more beneficial than i ever suspected. It’s left open during the Pre-Heating (torching) phase then i use my 2nd hand index to block this Sphere’s PinHole while “pumping” with my thumb on the handle hole to promote turbulence and airflow. Though still OPTIONAL since such dual-path setup proves to be tolerant of leaving the PH unattended - in permanent PH mode…

Too bad i no longer have a blue Classic around as well!

So, the confinement collar ain’t manadatory but it sure was felt as a “game changer” asset. I truly got to regret that i can’t readily implement that same tricks on my alu. unit too!

Good day, have fun!! :peace:


Quick update!

Having fun with 2-fingers manual PinHole control:

Left hand Thumb + Index if Bronze Sherlock.


Left hand Thumb + Right hand Thumb if Classic wood (two hands!)…



An after-thought…

Maybe it’s still possible using a Classic Aluminium handle to implement totally-separated 2-Fingers control of the On-Top Core-PinHole & Handle-PH features simultaneously while not requiring the other hand at all.

When screwed in place the annular mating surface of a Monobloc happens to seal a tiny circular channel around the Screw-Base Aperture. So, i’m currently trying to valorize it by putting some additional safety distance between the internal PH path and my obturating finger outside the top, which also partly solves the alignment problem…

If such drilling plan verifies (illustrated in red) then my left-hand thumb shall continue to control the (post-vapo) auxiliary-cavity PH function besides novel/independent manual operation of the On-Top Core PH using my left-hand index; e.g. during Pre-Heating a lift of my index shall further delay “Hot-Spotting” by complementing the 17-Holes Metal Disc “Shielding” effect. Then i’d block it during inhalation (with the flame removed), while “pumping” with my thumb. Then i’d lift it a last time to purge…


At least it sounds realistic and i’ve even managed to determine what type of mating system to prefer: never cut the flat annular face ever again, there are better ways, though there has to be an open path between the 2 faces of its Screw-Base Aperture, at the internal PH level.

Just when i thought i couldn’t imagine one last next step…

Good day, have fun!! :peace:

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Hummm… Now that i think of it again, maybe even 3-Fingers if there’s a finger-setting PH location on the Top/Sphere itself!

I noticed when i hold such customized VG aluminium handle that the mid-section of my index could prove more useful also controlling an eventual On-Top Core-PinHole Path as well.

Now lets consider this revised layout schematic:

It implies either half of the On-Top Core-PH Path ain’t required to exist, while if it does exist then that can be left unattended (in permanent PH mode), or much better yet: it shall become available for 2-Hands/2-Fingers operation where even finer (multi-level) mastering is finally accessible…

Someday i’ll need to try camomile instead!




It’s a pleasure to announce that preliminary 2-Fingers ideas finally confirmed in a non-equivocal fashion and hence i plan to implement single-hand multi-level PinHole control on my Classic VG Aluminium Handle, possibly in good time to publish some Father’s Day snapshot/version, i guess. Always keep in mind the “Prototyping Platform” was intended to guide further “Bi-Energy” DiY exploration integrating Induction Heat to “Plan-B”, e.g. where a Dual-Core Reversible Near-Symetrical LAVACapsule is also meant to support IH-driving performed at both sides in economic (non-Premium) mode, e.g. with airflow circulating from right to left only (the 2nd core behaves as a self-cleaning “Hot Filter” during reverse “reclaim” cycles):

This schematic expressed a “Pass-Through Pre-Heating” concept which actually dates back to March 3rd, 2016… In other words i finally experience satisfaction which proves worthy of a long expectative prelude indeed!


Apparently injection of Fresh Air directly ahead of the right-side Top-of-Bowl Brass Screen enhances the “shielding” effect of my 17-Holes Metal Disc by “shifting” transient dynamics into a lower “Plan-B” energy range, so to speak, yet in IH-driven mode it’s going to become a primary heat source as the main radiator… Most of the beauty in it being that only clean-burning butane Pre-Heating cycles need to benefit from such PinHole-assisted protection of a bowl, to promote its “conservation”; while i presume in “Plan-A” scenarios there’s not even a requirement to separate Pre-Heating from Inhalation.

Starting from there the level of unverified interpretation threatens to increase, all i can say it that Brass Tops are too heavy for wood Classic handles even in a short configuration. Consequently i’m refocussing on Aluminium Tops from now on and intend to extend that to Spherical versions of identical dimmensions to the original. The light increase of mass should help compensate for this decision to put aside Brass in favour of Aluminium, for multiple motives it turns out: brass tarnishes fast and eventually looks dull, the lighter material matches Classic-look Alu. hanldes and it’s also somewhat more rewarding in terms of crafting efforts vs results. Not to mention it’s quite significantly more affordable as well…

So in the end i think i’ll want a short and a long alu top of cylindrical shape, plus 1 alu sphere if i can help it! As for my Split-Paths On-Top Core-PH strategy i’m pleased this paid real dividends too, by providing all the versatility i can wish for during LEGO-Style evaluations.


While i think of it lets insist again that “Plan-B” was never supposed to become a purist’s “Plan-A”, mainly because i still can’t guaranty there won’t be lead (Pb, Plumbum) exposure potentially threatening to induce “Saturism” considering i can’t find “Bio” alternatives so far. Just a few days ago i was reminded of this old topic and hence i wish to include instructions which were revised in this crucial perspective:

  1. About Bowl loading, Always Fill and Never Pack. Keep in mind the Support Loop located right under a pipe’s Cannabic Bowl needs to be “flipped” after removal as this greatly eases re-insertion, simply by screwing it in clockwise. Bowl size/weight is ajusted to match a top’s temporary heat-storage capacity using that Support Loop.
  1. With butane and/or it’s related compounds present in the lungs path just make sure there’s ALWAYS a CLEAN-BURNING flame to convert butane from such stream into relatively safe superheated Water Vapor and Carbonic Gas, while taking care to inhale with much less force (by lifting the thumb over a pipe’s PinHole) to Pre-Heat the Hybrid Core of a customized Sphere almost SEPARATELY. Filtered butane is Paramount and proper lighter maintenance too.
  1. NEVER let a flame touch anything as this will result in the addition of soot plus other nuisances. All that is required to be captured by the Flame-Catcher to inject a “Heat Charge” (or “Energy Bubble”) has to do with the Energy-Carrying Exhaust + some Radiative Heat.
  1. NEVER light up or extinguist a butane lighter close to the Flame Catcher. Flint-Wheel Yellow-Flame models generate health-hazard particles in the spark while the Blue Flame ones may fail to consume butane cleanly (extinguish at random and/or spitting out some contaminant droplets not convertible by fire)… Briefly put, ALWAYS wait for a flame to STABILIZE before it’s taken close to the Flame-Catcher Aperture.
  1. When a primary PinHole is available lift thumb during Pre-Heating to enhance the Hybrid Core’s transitional “Shield” effect. Stop torching after the SiC Front Puck appears to glow dim-red (which reflects approximative temperature once that Sphere got sufficiently energized), e.g. between 2~5 seconds depending on a butane lighter. Past this power injection cycle use the temporary “Heat Charge” from the Hybrid Core WITHOUT any butane and/or related stream still present near the Flame-Catcher Aperture. This indirect/residual energy-source ALONE shall suffice to proceed with the actual Vaporization process.
  1. While vaporizing/inhaling try obstructing the PinHole in brief pulses, in very short bursts at first then increasingly longer to compensate for lost heat from the Hybrid Core as its energy reserve gets depleted. The periods with no PinHole-obstructive thumb in action contribute to oxygenation of the cannabic stream while promoting early detection of vaporization signs, especially hints as aroma/taste which appear to depend on minimal “Attack”/“Decay” periods around the pulse itself (to cut total “Baking” time)… Think of some method vaguely similar to “pumping” a car’s breaks in an emergy maneuver situation, the goal being to probe using a sequence of short pulses instead of attempting to get it done in 1 single long pulse. The start/stop transitions appear to cause TURBULENCE which helps with stream movement a lot.
  1. A ~125 mg Bowl provides about 5~6 tokes, the left-over can be made useful at a later time to produce relaxing cookies. Don’t forget that once in a while even an empty cannabic Bowl can provide some satisfying toke (or two) from a sticky/waxy screen alone. Evidently stronger cookies should result from leaving more THC behind. Yet these days i just prefer no to bother and vape it dry: used vegetal substrate falls off easily anyway…
  1. It’s time for cleanup maintenance when the pipe stops working as usual. Pick a pipe stick wetted with 94 % pure grain alcohol to clean wood VG Handles fast. NEVER allow the wood to absorb water as this would promote cracks in the wood. Metal models are to be prefered when condensed noble molecules need to be “reclaimed”, though these feel heavier in the hand while wood’s near organic-like aspects would prove more “sexy” (with the benefit of being an insulator). Alternately, wood is also an absorbing material so this makes it less desirable if/when resin reclaims are desired, especially during a user-training period. The back face of metal pipes proves handy for quick torch-cleaning of a screen (so it won’t generate metal fumes anymore…), with no risk of a skin burn as a result of mass nonetheless. Choose the “Classic” look Aluminium for superior aroma/taste performance + ease of maintenance (+ Single-Hand 2-Fingers manual PH control).
  1. Initially i found the genuine layout with VG’s DuckLips MouthPiece was getting uncomfortably hot, the addition of a half-ball stainless steel object down under my cannabic Bowl paved the way to lower-temperature cannabic vapor being sent towards the lungs; as an option it may also help to capture particles in the cannabic vapor using a tiny cotton ball which somewhat adds to the cooling action after getting moist. Half-sphere screens were gradually dropped in my more recent versions, at 1st in favour of an auxiliary PinHole located on the MP base, then my whole PinHole concept finally unfold as a Full-Fledged implementation offering 4 different Fresh Air admission sites along the path!..
  1. When attempting to reconfigure DuckLips MouthPieces to reflect the side-wise preference of an operator (e.g. right-handed vs left-handed positioning) try to never forget about twisting this part while pulling on it with care as its stem proved very brittle. Somehow an helix motion seems more gentle.
  1. The need for eye-contact on a flame tip may require some Flexible Plastic PVC Tubing Extension. A length around 12.5 cm will do and that’s a better place where to install the optional cotton ball (strongly recommended), unless a plastic/metal Mating junction is available of course. Last but not least, clear plastic makes it easy to monitor butane consumption based on water vapor condensation creating droplets in the tube after a potential abuse situation, or operating error, etc. The Tubing Extension ultinately opacifies if/when abuse continues. End the session and re-evaluate operator skills if this occurs, don’t forget to shake off liquid water droplets after removing that tube. Consider this a true “Harm Reduction” self-awareness feature.

The purpose of those directives is to address concerns inherited from VG’s original preference for “soft” yellow flames applied to a slow/steady consumption method & ritual. My switch to Dual Flames fully justifies the recent migration to metal tops but it’s still no absolute remedy to the old “contaminant”/“impurity” problem, though “Plan-B” truly proved necessary to prepare “Plan-A” where butane is only optional.

Experimenters are expected to be mature adults willing to use “Plan-B” for what it is, e.g. to gain perspective until ready to depend on Induction Heat + Distilled Water (or e-Liquid?) instead. Hot Dry Air remaining straightforward as an option… We don’t have to be doctors to worry that the problem with lead vs kids results from their human body having no means to eliminate it, which means this is a non-curable poison which accumulates slowly, hence it’s safe enough to fall-back to butane on occasions, for example for a grown up who’s lost in the woods when the touristic season arrives every year (…), but not OKay at all for chronic under-age consumers i think. So please exercise rational reasoning suitable for an intermediary phase in order to avoid the sacrifice of its final purist-compatible goal! Each good thing comes in its good time, a finished proof-tested layout shall serve as a basis for future IH-driven experiments, eventually. I wish someday i’d be able to promise a Classic Glass IH-compatible update but i just can’t, yet who knows what’s the limit with VG’s Monobloc Stainless Steel in such highly hypothetical context?

In the meantime…

The clear plastic Containment Bridge is another successful idea but this would render a sturdy/reliable design too fragile in comparison to what it used to be like. My options are to elongate alu. cylinders and seal the handle/top junction with a base “O-Ring” -or- find some relatively smaller tube made of suitable material (ideally, which is mechanically resilient and somewhat thermally-resistant…) to perform containment for wood handles. In both scenarios the chances are this PH Bridge will be opaque, lucky me that’s no real issue knowing it’s only channelling Fresh Air (nothing to see), euh…

M’well, that’s a lenghy text so maybe it’s about time for me to re-fill anyway.

Good day, have fun!! :peace: