Help with beginner training or pruning

The pH is basic theme n so much important than molasses… A pH kit is les than 10€: 3 gotes of the pK control liquid into an eppendorf full of water ya uses to use…The final color sais ya the pH. Optimum to ganja is between 5’5 & 7’5… I uses 6-7 in veg n 6-6’5 n floration…
Growfaq sure helps ya…

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Lol. That last part reminds me of grade 12 math class. Ill read into th PH testing thank you.

Not as dificult. All vegetal growers knows that same plants prefer or event need acid soils, others neutrals, but other plants liked basic or alkaline soils… Granja prefer lightly acid soils (5’5-7), n is easier control wattering pH than ground pH…

Anyway, the sheep composted n organic soil ya uses is a “little pH watterig errors corrector”… But if yare allways wattering with 7’5 or higher ya will have problems sure, n more in your little pots…

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Yes

both.

dont buy it. waste of money. its like big pharma. chasing bottles.

with cfls and most china re branded leds out there you want to train your plants using HST (high stress training) and LST (low stress training) methods i find it easiest to pluck the eye of the plant off and when two shoot grow pull them to the side and tie them down. keep doing this till you have an even canopy

the numbers dont matter. kind of a pain in the ass to pay attention too. ive never grown with any npk anything. but you can use it.

you dont need it. keep it in your kitchen for cookies:)

dont scare him with PH. ive never checked it in my lifeXD well not for my plants

i suggest you go to your local feed store and grab a bag of kelp meal. you wont need anything else if you make kelp teas once or twice a week. and if you go the organic route you dont need to worry about ph, npk, flushing, ec, and any other abbreviations they have for ya:)

Much Love
Lotus

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Excuse, my friend, but Im dessagree with your opinión. Ya knows Im bioorgánics grower toó, not only granja: maybe ya have the luck your original pH water is fine… And is very important to knows the aprox NPK or the animal compost ya uses : isent the same proportions with differents NPK (sheep, goat, rabbit, donkey, horses, insectivore bat, fruity bat, worn)… Knowing it ya can make your own biorganic superbosteers as I explain in The Dogs House…

This is funny. No one noticed you said blue light for flowering. I use a lot of blue but i want a lot of resin and color. Normally you would add more red. It is common to double whatever you vegged with. Obviously it can be ten times if you harden the plant off. More red more yield. More intensity regardless of spectrum more yield. I prefer the more balanced approach with a little more blue and uv.

i say just let nature do its thing:)

Exsmple: natural mounts manantial water I uses to watterin is delicatessen to drink (pH 7-7’5), but I must corrected it till 6’5 to wattering cannabis. Other plants dont need it… Is Nature n Cannabis natural metabolisme who are sayin “” pH 6’5, please “”…
As well nature sais your skin is ph5’5 n your hair is 7…

i always forgetXD if you dont have a good soil then you might have to worry about ph and what not. in notill we dont have to worry about it because all the living matter in our soil corrects the ph to whatever it needs:)

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I said it in another post toó…but in a little pot soil finally is getting the wattering NPK… Not enought soil to filter/correct pH till floración…

Example: n big grows like The Dogs House ones, in motherland, I only need cheek NPK in prefloratión. But in little pots I need check it soon in veg…

…or ya uses to have since little strange nutrientes deficits, or even yall finish your grow with a “bloqueo total de nutrientes” (nutrients feed total blocked?)

BOG in Old Overgrow learn it me: after years of growin “pornoweed” without special cares (comparin with all things n expensive prodcts Caliweed people used with their plants) n having against me dead of child jealosy all Old OG Nazigrowers, I changed my grow zone n started have a lot of problems… BOG explained me what happened: " your actual water have diferents pH"…)
BOG explained me toó the safe n healthy use or rotenone, btw…

This thread restores my faith in humanity. Well done my fellow growers…

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Other example: if ya wanted obtain same concreted NPK feed power n “pH corrector filter capacity” not with sheep compost, but with horses compost,in your soil, ya must rise horses compost total proportion. If ya uses 1/4 with sheeps, now ya need a 1/3 with horses,…
Or in floration isent the same a 2-10-2 insectivore bat guano than an 1-10-10 fruity bat guano… Whith insectivore I can n must use more ashes to obtain same buds…

I would suggest MORE light, and perhaps a small fan. With the size of the pots and relative inexperience (no offense) I wouldn’t be in a rush to top pinch lst. Let them grow natural, flower them early (4 weeks) and use the above advice. If underlit (etc.) topping plants in small containers will give small popcorn main buds. A small set-up with cfl’s would be suited more by single cola plants to get at least one nice cola, and you’ll get a better idea of how the plants grow, as not all varieties respond well to topping. LESS is more IMO. See what the ladies like, then torture the offspring!!!

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Using Molasses is great. You have to get a feel for when to use it. How much per gallon of water is up for debate. I like to use Earth Juice Grow and Bloom for Organics.

But remember are microorganism in soil (benefical fungus n bacteries) who made possible plants take benefits from molasses…

Yes, “top” or take a cutting off the main stem. This breaks apical dominance, so lateral growth can occur in the form of more colas. From there you can train, either with lateral support, or trellis methods. This can work for you or against you in many ways, sometimes colas are so dense or large, that topping reduces cola size, and advantage for colas that are prone to mold. However some plants do not like too much topping, it can hurt yield.

Mainline, FIM, ScrOg, Multicolas use methods of pruning to get lateral growth, so one cola does not dominate the plant canopy. So it can be flattened out so its easier to work under a typical grow light, and gives even exposure to a canopy top.

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