Ceramic doesn’t react and turn black like metal ones 
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Thanks!
That is interesting, I always wondered what was happening with the color change.
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‘Most will fix themselves over time as part of the healing process that’s why it is good to use sterile clean media like rock wool to give them time to close them selves up before anything bad sneaks in.
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If you look up general propagation techniques you will often find the advice to let the wound callous over. It is standard practice with a lot of plants. I think it may be necessary(or nearly necessary eg high failure rate without) for cacti and succulents.
Cannabis is a plant, and while it is a special plant, it has a lot in common with many other plants and sometimes all the lore and bro science, and folk technique gets in the way of simple things.
I’ve been hearing more about this related to cannabis recently, and I think there is in general more thought and care about open wounds happening because of the rise in viruses and viroids.
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Yes but cactus evaporate water so slow you can cut them and let them sit for a week or more on the table to where they get hard an start to grow roots , this is how they fall apart and spread in nature. cannabis will not survive outside of a medium or water so one wants to use such things that will encourage and allow for the callus to form while the roots are establishing , check those same not closed plants later on in healthy conditions they close up and the bad portion if any breaks away.
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Tag me Sunday and I’ll post my results, leaving for breeders ball in kalkaska at the kalkushka lounge Saturday, be there or be square!
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thenaturefarm has some good info on his instagram I’ll dig it up.
Been using the method he describes my last few cloning runs in my aerocloner and have had my first actually calloused over cuts, could never get them to callous over before probably due to bacteria in my system that the pool shock helps with.
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@Tonygreen really looking forward to this event. I hope to be able to talk to you.
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I use pool shock and I have not found that to make callous on my cuts.
Are you able to add anything that will?
In a lab setting clones are often dipped in isopropyl alcohol to sterilize the cut and make it easier for the healing/transformation process to roots to occur.
I don’t bother with any of this and find that clean tools and the proper humidity plus correct moisture and temperature levels in the rooting medium makes all the difference. Also cuts taken from recently fed and healthy parental stock make healthier clones.
Most people I see take clones keep them to warm and to wet , creating perfect conditions for bacteria and fungal growth.
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Agreed. Apart from the basics I find temp to be the biggest variable for speed of rooting
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I have not had an issue taking clones, just have trouble closing them up to infection.
@Heritagefarms
@Foreigner
How do you folks get the cut to close up to prevent infection?
Sounds like a good time.
Wish I was in MI 
I don’t do anything fancy. No rooting gel no nutes no 45 degree angle no second snip.
They callous over just fine and root no problem. Even tiny ones.
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It would seem this is not the typical grower’s experience.
You must have just the right touch… 
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Really I just leave them alone and make a point of putting them in slightly higher than average room temperature. I have a fancy bubble rig though.
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Pretty much like @Foreigner stated no root hormones , warm dome and not to much moisture and they do just fine. I’m not going around opening each cube to see how they look , once they are rooted and growing good they get planted into soil. I honestly think most of these pictures going around of clones with issues at the base are intentionally shown as the plant heals itself and projected as if the person had something to do with it when in reality the plant is doing all the work when given the proper environment .
Also in the winter it’s hard for me to get the air temp above 65 degrees and they still root just fine, they take a little longer but most times I’m in no rush so it actually helps.
Plants with a higher carbohydrate load root faster , feed them the day before taking cuts.
Water the cubes all the way threw , wait a day , press any extra moisture with fingers so they don’t drip water out and don’t water them untill the cuts wilt or the cubes are dry , preferably you water just before wilt occurs but the timing of that takes some trail and error to get nailed down. It’s like making Carmel out of sugar, I can tell people the steps and they are rather simple but 99% of people will either burn it or turn it off to soon and be left with sugar paste.
Leave the dome completely closed for a day or two and then start to slowly open the vents day by day , I never open the vents all the way but rather open both about a 1/4 of the way. If they wilt close the vents more if to much moisture is building up making the domes sweat inside open a little more, moisture on the walls is ok but so much that you can’t look inside easily is not. I prefer to see no moisture build up on the walls after the first 24 hours. Cut the leaves the day before you cut the clones and they won’t have to heal the bottom and the leaf wound at the same time.
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An important variable is at play here many will likely argue; cutting at an angle will inhibit callous formation. Cell division occurs in planes with cells stacked like carefully laid bricks. A straight cut creates the proper growth plane for the most effective callous formation.
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“These observations strongly suggest that these two types of callus are different in their molecular and physiological properties. As we will discuss in more detail later, at least some aspects of wound-induced callus formation are driven through the upregulation of cytokinin signaling (Iwase et al., 2011a).”
This is a quote from a study on mechanisms and induction of callus formation. While that is how it’s formed in nature, wound induced callus formation occurs when more cells are exposed to conditions that make them seal off from infection…creating point of lateral growth. So, a larger wound will create more callus formation - or so this study claims.
And for what it’s worth, I clone just like @Foreigner and @Heritagefarms . No hormones. Water and dome and warm and leave it alone for the most part. Cut at an angle and I cut the leaves same day 
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Plants showing their resilience is cool. Optimizing growth is cool too. I was taught to use a sharp clean instrument, take cuttings and place directly into water, from those cuttings make another cut, a diagonal cut, underwater so that it’s not exposed to air, dip in rooting gel (optional), trim leaves to reduce transportation (mixed feelings about this practice now), place into bubble cloner. Ideally when taking cuttings visualize the final cut to be at a junction on the stem with leaves or branches coming out of it for the supposed richness in hormones and auxins at those junctures although I’m unsure if this aspect is validated and haven’t tried to fact check it myself.
Plants can also root in a cup of water after being cut with a rusty spoon. When the cuttings are being taken overall plant health, relative brix levels, temperature, relative humidity and such are all things that contribute to potential success. What one gardener has success with may or may not work for another. There are a bunch of other variables at work. I think ceating an ideal environment is a key factor in ones potential success when rooting cuttings. The plants are detached from their roots with much less biomass to deal with changing environmental factors. With a more ideal environment I think it can help buffer more than most techniques and their variability can with respect to potential cloning success. This is one of those different strokes for different folks type deals I think. When success is found, that process is typically used thereafter continually. Many blessings and much love
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