This makes good sense… thanks
This is helpful because all of the cells become turgid aka filled with water.
A diagonal cut is for exposing the maximum amount of cambium layer
This may be a bit of a myth.
While it is not good to let the tip dry it is not super important.
At least I do not feel it is.
You can take a cut toss it in an empty bottle and send it across the country.
When you get it just make a fresh cut like a Christmas tree and you are good to go.
If I trim leaves I trim to prevent mold but trimming leaves does reduce transpiration.
While true, a faster rooted cut will out perform a slower rooted cut.
A cut with a robust root system will out perform a cut with a lesser root system.
A healthy plant will always out perform one that got infected by an open sore in the stem.
So for me…it is the fastest way to a robust healthy root system for the win.
Closing off the open stem is a good choice to keep plants healthy.
How you achieve this really is of no matter.
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I have my own method that seems to give some cuts a new tap root. I need to pull histo slides to see if cell type and arrangement is consistent with a natural tap root, but it sure does look and act the same.
In any event, it produces an evenly distributed array of healthy white anchors on even tiny cuts.
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Yes the turgidity directly relates to and is an observable characteristic of water potential. The diagonal cut to maximize surface area. Cutting underwater to limit potential pathogens from the air getting into the fresh wound is what I was told. Many blessings and much love
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I still struggle with my cloning after many years. I appreciate the conversation on the topic, lots of great info for me to apply going forward!
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my method (definitely no the proper method but idiot proof):
- Mix distilled water with Azos at 4tbsp/litre or gallon (or fill up with 1L/4cup measuring cup and add 1 tbsp if you want to only soak 4-5 pellets).
- Add the driest, oldest looking peat pellets you can find and soak for 30mins-ish or until no longer stiff. you can lightly squeeze some excess liquid out after or not, makes no difference if you arent placing them on a flat surface, i place mine in dixie cups with hydroton inside usually.
- Cut clone stem at 45d angle and scar all 4 “sides” above that lightly in a short vertical line. cover it all in hormex #8 powder.
- Stick clone in pellet (dip clone in treatment right before if need be. also can dunk clone in epsom water solution, this ill do every 5 days or so).
- If using a dome, spray inside of dome a few times a day with distilled water, can use foilar spray like Foop directly on clones every few days as well. Otherwise need a very low VPD, so low that youre gonna want to not do that unless youve actually insulated and waterproofed your room/tent.
24hr light definitely working better than 18/6. shouldve started that ages ago.
just what works for me, which like i said means its likely idiot proof.
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Interesting, now that does make good sense indeed! 
Thanks!
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Cutting under water was traditionally done with the thinking it would prevent an embolism in the xylem. One has to ligate the branch and cut below that first to remove branch from plant. Then cut above ligation under water. It’s not necessary with Cannabis
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Most issues with cloning that impact plant health are easily avoidable with proper sanitation. Especially hop latent viroid. In cannabis, all research points to infection from uncleaned tools being the primary source, little to no evidence to support aphids can spread the virus. Keeping the cloning room clean is your easiest and cheapest way to make sure you have healthy clones.
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