I cut my nitrogen off completely at week 4 this run and noticed a difference in the buds , much nicer .
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You have to do it to understand it , see it in person. You do not need to cut it off, the plant will, if you are feeding enough P and K to her. She needs some N but really not too much if you set them up well in veg, like I know you do. Thinking as long as she gets at least 2 times as much P and K as you feed N , you will be just fine. For most that means dropping a complete formula or ābottleā and is really not the best way to go in my opinion. Megacrop at about 1.5/1/2 is marginal in my opinion, and is about as low as I would try, actually, I would not try it, lol, I know what it will grow. I just mix fed to achieve the levels I want to run. I agree, just dropping N in mid flower would produce harder denser stinkier nugs.
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I guess I should mention Iām using general hydro flora line 11 jugs to be exact so there is still nitrogen being fed just not the veg nute ,plants still stayed green till week 7 . Lol
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OMG you PIG!!! LMAO
Holy shitcans Saviorā¦just starting to cure Orange Goji has just kicked my fucking assā¦1/2 a joint!!!
WOW
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If you want more nitro in veg you can sub magnesium nitrate 1 for 1 with Epsom. If you want less in flower, get yourself some calcium EDTA.
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Refresh my memory - was this in an active system or just sitting in a container? Aerated? Recirculating or drain to waste? Whats your water initial PH?
My water often does the same thing your does if I draw it from the tap and quickly mix up the rez. I will PH down, and then the PH climbs back up over the next few hours. I think thats due to the excess C02 leaving the water. Part of it is temperature change for me. My water starts at 55-58 deg out of the tap. As it warms up, it holds less C02, so the PH goes UP as the C02 leaves the solution. Aeration just speeds things up.
See what it does after a few hours. If you PH down again, it may hold just fine.
Also - what EC are you running? Lower EC levels of Jacks will have a harder time holding the PH.
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You can test your water for the C02 issues yourself easily.
Just take some tap water and check PH as soon as you get it from the tap. Note the temp of the water.
Then you can either just wait or actively aerate the water using an air stone or what ever. I have just used mason jars. I leave them sitting open, but every so often put the lid on and shake hard to aerate. An air stone works better.
In any case, just check the PH every few hours. If it climbs, steadily, you may have the problem water, or you may just have cold water. The temp increasing will change the amount of dissolved C02 all by itself.
After the PH seems to have stabilized - never more than 12 hours for my water if aerated - then use some PH down to take it to your desired level.
Now see what the PH does over the next few hours. If it climbs back up when aerated - you have the suck ass water.
Thats my water, but the Jacks can handle my water ok as long as my EC is high enough - above 1.0 to 1.2 seems to work ok so far. Havent tried lower than that yet, but will soon when I start some new seeds in my aero chamber of deathā¦
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Keep in mind there are (at least) three things going on with PH and nute water.
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Biological action from the plants. As the plants eat, the PH can go up or down depending on EC, PH etc. I have no clue how to predict that.
1A) Biological action from bacteria/algae eating organic stuff in the nutes in the rez. This always drives the PH in the rez UP for me - even in drain to waste. Fortunately, its easy to see if you have cloudy water or slime or green or brown crap growing in the rez or buckets. I use fanatical light control in the rez, plus I run sterile. Jacks does NOT seem to have any organic stuff my bacteria like, so they have not been growing in my rez since the switch to Jacks. -
Carbonates/dissolved C02 in your water. I discussed this above. As far as I know, there is no āfixā for this unless you switch to distilled water maybe. RO didnt help me at all, but that was back before I switched to Jacks. Might be worth an experiment for someone to do. Im good as is.
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Temps. Low temp water - as it comes out of the tap - holds more C02. That extra C02 is in the form of carbonic acid - which lowers PH. As the water warms up, the excess C02 goes away, which raises the PH.
Your specific water may have one or all of those issues - or none of them if you are lucky.
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Hey everyone,
Iāve got potential Cal Mag issues, using 321 as my base formula. Yes, everyone jumps on Cal Mag as a first solution and Iāve added GHās CaliMagic but it does not seem to be effective - or perhaps effective enough. I add it to the mix as the last ingredient, after the Cal Nit.
My first question is this: if I add Cal Mag (at recommended 5ml/gal), will it negatively affect the 321 ratios and lock out other elements?
Secondarily, should I just cut Cal Nit entirely and rely on Cal Mag (since Cal Nit is in it)?
Finally, if I change the 321 formula to 322 (or thereabouts) will I create a better solution to Cal Mag issues than by adding Cal Mag to the 321 formula?
Thank you.
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Those burnt tips look like nutrient burn. Iām using jacks 321 (for the first time) and it should have enough calcium and magnesium for coco and led grows.
I heard you can grow in coco with ph 5.8-6.4 even in flower. I tried that in flower and it was a disaster. Before that I ran 5.8 always with no issues. Iām back to 5.8 in pure coco.
Green Gene feeds 321 from seedling to harvest sometimes.
Also I agree on raising the lights as it does look like bleaching in some of the pics.
If anything I would back off the cal nit and donāt add anymore cal mag.
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I run coco drain to waste. I usually have a 30 gal trash can as a Rez. I had a pump in the trash can when I was running megacrop so it could stir up the mix. The pump would turn on 5 minutes before it would feed my plants when lights came on. It looks like I wonāt need to do that with jacks.
I made a 5 gallon mix of 321 two days ago and the ph stayed the same when I checked today (5.8). I remember hearing bigger nutrient mixes by the gallon hold a more stable ph.
I need to do some of the tests you told me about soon.
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New to site. Hoping I can learn and add to the Jacks info.
Using Jacks 321-ish in coco DTW. Have used Megacrop v1/2 previously. I blame the MC web site elemental calculator for pulling me into playing with the numbers.
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Hello @GramTorino. I was wondering are you adding your Si to the water first then the calimagic, and then the jacks? Are you using tap water? And thatās mlās for the c/m and Si correct? Sorry for so many questions. Trying to get the jacks to run with out c/m issues in dtw coco also. Thanks.
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Hey GramTorino,
Welcome to Overgrow, and thanks for sharing your feed schduleā¦!
I was wondering on your schedule why you show such high N in late flower?
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Glad to help where I can.
Small 4x4ish grow so I use bagged canna coco usually. But I rinse and buffer it in calmag.
Nute routineā¦(constant circulation while adding each separatelyā¦ in order)
Res with RO water
Silica
Cal mag
Epsom
Jacks A
Jacks B (15-0-0 calnit)
ā¦
For me, using about 1ml of Armor si per gallon results in a final PH of 6.1.
Very stable.
I learned gobs at the coco for cannabis site. Props to them.
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Hi. Iām all about learning where I should have my N and when. Also the P and Kā¦since Iāve abused those in the past. (Burn. Lol)
I actually just flipped my light schedule on Dec 3rd. This is only my second run with Jacks.
My old fat fingers getting familiar with site. Sorry if I goof up a lil.
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Thanks @GramTorino. I use cyco and do the same. Also learned that at coco for cannabis. I reference the site all the time. Cheers.
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More numbers I have gathered.
(Butā¦Possibly errors due to me or formula changes, or bad source)
ML for liquids.
Grams for powder.
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Been a whileā¦anyone try the bloom booster and finish that jacks has now?
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