Main stem actively rotting

Sick Plants & Problems
#21

That’s what I’m hoping.

I’m of the school of thought that sickness is a sign of a problem, rather than the problem itself. There’s even organisms that can be beneficial in the right circumstances, that act as pathogens when they get the chance.

The plant in question was already in poor health, so the infection was probably already hiding in waiting. Then I buried the stem too high up, and the excess moisture made the outer bark soften enough for invasion. There might have even been some fungus gnat larvae helping the process along.

As long as I keep it dry, I don’t think the pathogen can progress. At this point it’s more of a learning experience than anything. If things take a turn for the worse she’ll be disassembled.

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#22

Oh yeah, update. On or about 4/20/21, the Starfighter in question passed away.

She started to wilt, as if her roots were just dry. But after watering like normal, the wilting continued; over a period of 48-100 hours or so.

It would appear that if managed, you’ve got weeks and weeks to take clones before it takes your plant. My next step will be researching the pathogen(s?) that cause it, to find out if they’re systemic, and if the clones are at an increased risk having come from a plant with an active stem infection.

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#23

Yes, most likely if it’s an inner vascular infection. Probably fungal but could be bacterial.

Did you cut up the stem after you killed it, see how far it goes?

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#24

Oooh, I did not. It’s been a significant amount of time, but, a necropsy is still an option.

#25

The inner pith should be white even post dry, couldn’t hurt to take a quick gander.

I’m much more familiar with infestations that have legs, but there’s a whole world of disease out there that’s looming to infect Cannabis. Never before have as many people grown or passed living tissue between gardens so shit is about to hit fan for many issues, IMO.

Makes me wonder why antibiotics don’t seem to be an effective option on plants with bacterial disease. Don’t know enough about pharmacology or plant physiology to even venture a guess.

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#26

Seems to be the only plant affected at the moment and has been removed from the area. What is it though, can it be treated?

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#27

Looks to me as though that removed stem was broken off too close to the stalk and allowed an infection to take hold. From the discoloration of the stems near the wound I believe the infection has entered the plants vascular tissue similar to the OP. I would take clones asap as this plant may not make it. I dip my clones in Mycostop to help keep these types of infections minimized. Do you have some powdered sulfur you can pack around the infected area?

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#28

Interesting, okay that actually makes me feel a little better. I just removed the plant from the grow area, not worried about clones as it’s an auto. Is this something I should be worried about infecting the rest of the crop? Most seem okay but I did pull a rotting branch off in similar fashion off of one other.

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#29

If you are already seeing other plants exhibiting mold or rot then yes I believe it is something to be concerned about. This pic is not the clearest but it does look to have some black fuzzy growth around the wound. Fuzzy growth represents the reproductive organs of mold or mildew so if you see fuzzy, something is growing and sporulating – spreading the disease to other plants so to speak. A preventative spray of oil or sulfur would be beneficial as either would help minimize infection although the two (oil and sulfur) should NEVER be mixed nor used near each other without first having washed the other off the plant: If they mix they can burn a plant to death.

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#30

What kind of oil, neem? Do you recommend one over the other (sulfur/neem)?

#31

Yumi genomics
They also have HPLVD testing for 20$

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#32

I personally use horticultural oil and no sulfur. Primarily because Sulfur cannot be used when in flower while oil can be used in flower without ruining your nuggs. You don’t need expensive horticultural oil, you can use corn or sesame oil at 2TBSP/gallon to water to which you would also add 3-4 drops of an emulsifier and shake like crazy before and while spraying every surface of your plants.

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#33

Really? That shit is pretty nasty once it oxidizes which I expect would happen really fast in a full sun environment.

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#34

yep. Its an industry standard that is in many commercial formulations.

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#35

Interesting. I wouldn’t have thought.

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#36

Okay, so my plan as of now is to spray with horticultural oil and top dress with mykos and recharge. Seem like an okay course of action?

Edit: Just pulled the two plants and put them outside, maybe they’ll bounce back out there but didn’t want it to spread. One actually looks fine, the other one not so much.

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#37

Outside is best until the issue is fully controlled. You definitely don’t want to leave those in your grow room.

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#38

Maybe it has a manganese deficiency. That would send glucose instead of sucrose down the pipe, attracting Pythium Phytophthora, Aphanomyces and those other stalk rotting pathogens.

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#39

@Worcestershire_Farms My option on the matter : its fusarium infection in the stem , also not a professional,nor scientist. Had issues with it myself and pretty sure I narrowed it down to point of entry was fungus nats caused injury at the ground line and the spores entered the stalk that way

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#40

Interesting, it does look like that. Treating with horticultural spray and growers recharge, any other tips?

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