Methods for cleaning new clones before bringing them into your grow

Zephyr’s Guide for Sharing and Receiving Clones 10/10/2022

When I take clones from outdoor plants and move them indoors, I spray them with neem oil solution the day after I cut them, wait up to 4 days if the cuttings show any kind of stress, then spray with spinosad. Then I wait another full week.

If there are no signs of mildew, mites, aphids, or any other pest or fungal problems, after 2 weeks of quarantine it is safe to bring into my indoor grow.

When I buy clones from a reliable legal supplier, they go straight into my outdoor grow because I know they have passed the full panel of state mandated testing including plant viroid testing. I don’t introduce commercial cuttings to my indoor grow, and I only buy direct from nurseries, not from dispensary retailers.

I have never brought a clone from another grow into my perpetual indoor medical grow, it would be too much of a risk.

When I receive clones from another grow, I use an old horticultural industry method for treating cuttings. This is a method that should not be over-used. It can burn plants if you are not careful, and it should only be used when absolutely necessary. Otherwise, I would recommend something less extreme.

Dunk and rinse in a solution of 1/2 hydrogen peroxide 3% solution, 1/2 water
Dunk and rinse in fresh water

repeat as needed until all foreign material is removed, and the cuttings are fully clean. use a fresh bowl of water for the final rinse.

(optional) dunk in a light tea of neem seed meal, ground kelp, and a sprinkle of vermicompost. this will act as a foliar feed, and help to establish a beneficial microbiome on the plant. you can also use lactobacillus serum dilution for this.

This has been sufficient for most cuttings I have received from other grows.

Like any pest control method, overuse may result in pests or mildew that is resistant to treatment. If cuttings arrive healthy, just quarantine and use your routine pest/fungal control regiment. Don’t escalate unless it’s necessary.

In the case of the heavily contaminated (but extremely valuable) heirloom clones that I mention in the original post, I took some additional steps and ultimately got the plants strong enough to make it to harvest and preserve the genetics.
However, I was never able to fully eradicate the mite infestation. The plants arrived in terrible condition. The only solution was to treat the mite infestation to control it, and isolate the plants from my grow. I grew them outdoors, quarantined from my other plants.

I do not recommend other growers take this risk, regardless of how important or valuable the genetics are. In the future I will not be taking any chances with obviously unhealthy clones.

When I share a clone, I do a hydrogen peroxide solution rinse, and then rinse in fresh water. And I recommend that the grower who receives the cutting quarantine it for 2 weeks, while using their usual pest control regiment.

Quarantine is always necessary, even with cuttings from a healthy grow. Plants become weakened when they experience a change in environmental conditions. A plant that was successfully fighting off a mildew infection might suddenly succumb to it, or a plant with strong pest resistance might become a prime target for spider mites.


There are a few more precautions that should be considered when sharing clones.

If your grow has any kind of pest or mildew problem, whether it’s under siege or just a problem that pops up occasionally, I do not recommend sharing cuttings. Get any lingering problems under control before you share cuts. Take caution in sharing cuttings and disclose any potential problems to the person you are giving them to.

If your plants have shown any signs of leaf variegation, dudding at new growth points, or mutant leaf formation, do not share cuttings or seeds!

You could risk spreading plant or soil-borne viroids or pathogens, and contaminate someone’s grow permanently. This is a growing problem, and something that every grower should carefully consider when sharing or accepting seeds and cuttings. These symptoms can also be indicative of the incredibly dangerous hemp russet mite, which is invisible to the naked eye.

If a plant viroid or pathogen, or russet mites are introduced, the only way to get rid of it is to shut down, remove all plant and soil material, thoroughly decontaminate all surfaces with bleach, and stop the grow for a month or two.

I have seen growers on here knowingly distribute virus infected seeds to hundreds of people. This was only disclosed in a few posts in a grow journal after the seed had been sent out, not in the seed giveaway thread.

Always read the full grow journal, take a look through their past posts, and know what kind of grower you are dealing with before accepting seeds or clones.


Original post, July 2019

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I spray the living bajesus out of them with the most evil miticide i can get my dirty little hands on. Avid. Floramite. TetraSan. I treat every two days for a week to make sure not a damn thing with a nervous system is left alive.

My area is full of two-spotted Borg so I have learned to leave nothing to chance and to not fuck around with “less lethal” methods.

I also regularly spray and bleach all my grow spaces

Kill’em dead.

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thanks happyhemper, regularly cleaning your grow space with bleach is an important safety procedure. I never spray chemicals, but I might get a more intense organic miticide to treat these with regularly. Probably something essential oil based

unfortunately the clones were in worse shape than expected, so these will go straight outdoors. I’ll still preserve them in the form of a hybrid outcross. Mites and powdery mildew were clearly evident, so they were treated with all the methods I had on hand. I did the rinsing process I described in the first post and also rinsed them in a neem seed meal and worm casting tea as a probiotic. These will be isolated from the rest of my outdoor plants in the corner of the garden, aka plant jail.

and I saw some photos of the initial grow these came from, a very old continuously operating commercial grow in a semi-enclosed barn. I can be certain that these are authentic, but also that they have not been kept in great conditions.

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I would do the above mentioned spraying and quarantine it from the other plants for 2 weeks.

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Avid is bad bad shit…IMHO. There must be better ways…that shit is so toxic. I would only use that shit as a very last resort. Ive seen mites swim in that shit after so long of using it. It starts breeding super mites that become immune to it unless you use more and more of it. I read the MSDS sheet on that shit…holy! I have seem it used as a murder weapon…you know the stuff we don’t talk about! Like that time we got paid in the dark and what we did after…hehe

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Believe it is not you can rinse a plant in a bleach or Isopropyl Alcohol solution for a short period of time and it will be fine. I submerge mine in a mix of soybean oil, ISO, peppermint, and soap. I let it sun dry and then mix some of the drench in a bottle with one more part of ISO and spray it from the top and bottom. I always make sure to get the soil too. This is a weekly spray for me so I spray my veg area regularly anyway.

I have a buddy uptown who always has PM. Did I say always? Yes, I meant ALWAYS HAS PM. Anytime he holds something or gives me cuts I spray and soak before ever leaving his house. I have even offered him bottles of my spray and he declined and says something lame like “it’s not that bad”.

I have never had anything from him already into or through my gardens.

I will add that anyone not running perpetual should be spraying, bleaching, cooking or using UV to clean in between cycles. There’s a reason the big dogs do the same thing

5 Likes

Thanks for sharing good info to have…i like that “its not that bad” its only a little bit sore haha
Prevention is the best cure…ozone works great also to clean a room of everything when its empty

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I would love to hear more on this topic, if anyone has anything to add.

Or
How would you like your clones treated before they get to you?

I plan on shipping some clones to some members here, so I would love to hear everyone’s opinion on this.

All comments welcome
Thanks
Shag

2 Likes

When I take clones from outdoor plants and move them indoors, I spray them with neem oil solution the day after I cut them, wait up to 4 days if the cuttings show any kind of stress, then spray with spinosad. Then I wait another full week.

If there are no signs of mildew, mites, aphids, or any other pest or fungal problems, after 2 weeks of quarantine it is safe to bring into my indoor grow.

When I buy clones from a reliable legal supplier, they go straight into my outdoor grow because I know they have passed the full panel of state mandated testing including plant viroid testing. I don’t introduce commercial cuttings to my indoor grow, and I only buy direct from nurseries, not from dispensary retailers.

I have never brought a clone from another grow into my perpetual indoor medical grow, it would be too much of a risk.

When I receive clones from another grow, I use an old horticultural industry method for treating cuttings. This is a method that should not be over-used. It can burn plants if you are not careful, and it should only be used when absolutely necessary. Otherwise, I would recommend something less extreme.

Dunk and rinse in a solution of 1/2 hydrogen peroxide 3% solution, 1/2 water
Dunk and rinse in fresh water

repeat as needed until all foreign material is removed, and the cuttings are fully clean. use a fresh bowl of water for the final rinse.

(optional) dunk in a light tea of neem seed meal, ground kelp, and a sprinkle of vermicompost. this will act as a foliar feed, and help to establish a beneficial microbiome on the plant. you can also use lactobacillus serum dilution for this.

This has been sufficient for most cuttings I have received from other grows. Like any pest control method, overuse may result in pests or mildew that is resistant to treatment. So if cuttings arrive healthy, just quarantine and use your routine pest/fungal control regiment. Don’t escalate unless it’s necessary.

In the case of the heavily contaminated (but extremely valuable) heirloom clones that I mention in the original post, I took some additional steps and ultimately got the plants strong enough to make it to harvest and preserve the genetics.
However, I was never able to fully eradicate the mite infestation. The plants arrived in terrible condition. The only solution was to treat the mite infestation to control it, and isolate the plants from my grow. I grew them outdoors, quarantined from my other plants.

I do not recommend other growers take this risk, regardless of how important or valuable the genetics are. In the future I will not be taking any chances with obviously unhealthy clones.

When I share a clone, I do a hydrogen peroxide solution rinse, and then rinse in fresh water. And I recommend that the grower who receives the cutting quarantine it for 2 weeks, while using their usual pest control regiment.

Quarantine is always necessary, even with cuttings from a healthy grow. Plants become weakened when they experience a change in environmental conditions. A plant that was successfully fighting off a mildew infection might suddenly succumb to it, or a plant with strong pest resistance might become a prime target for spider mites.


There are a few more precautions that should be considered when sharing clones.

If your grow has any kind of pest or mildew problem, whether it’s under siege or just a problem that pops up occasionally, I do not recommend sharing cuttings. Get any lingering problems under control before you share cuts. Take caution in sharing cuttings and disclose any potential problems to the person you are giving them to.

If your plants have shown any signs of leaf variegation, dudding at new growth points, or mutant leaf formation, do not share cuttings or seeds!

You could risk spreading plant or soil-borne viroids or pathogens, and contaminate someone’s grow permanently. This is a growing problem, and something that every grower should carefully consider when sharing or accepting seeds and cuttings. These symptoms can also be indicative of the incredibly dangerous hemp russet mite, which is invisible to the naked eye.

If a plant viroid or pathogen, or russet mites are introduced, the only way to get rid of it is to shut down, remove all plant and soil material, thoroughly decontaminate all surfaces with bleach, and stop the grow for a month or two.

I have seen growers on here knowingly distribute virus infected seeds to hundreds of people. This was only disclosed in a few posts in a grow journal after the seed had been sent out, not in the seed giveaway thread.

Always read the full grow journal, take a look through their past posts, and know what kind of grower you are dealing with before accepting seeds or clones.

6 Likes

Thank you very much for the in depth write up.
I did read your first post before posting, thanks for the update too.

I found it all interesting and helpful.
This in particular caught my eye.

That is some very good info, that you never hear…

Tis true weak plants are targeted by pests first.
Never thought about that with passing cuts though.
Makes perfect sense.

I may just steal some of this info for a project I am attempting.
If that is OK with you of course?

Thanks again for the time you took for the write-up! :nerd_face:

Peace
Shag

1 Like

no problem. please feel free to repost, or link to this anywhere.
I was hoping people would find this information useful.

2 Likes

I came across this method, although its few years old. Im getting ready to receive some cuts that have been in the vicinity of mites. They will be quarantined in a garage and treated in this manor. I will be doing cuts in this manor not rooted cuts. I hope they survive but its this way or the highway and Im not risking infecting any other areas. By the time I allow them in my grow area it will be at least two weeks and more like 4 depending on how they look.

That Northern Lights cut sounds interesting, is it out there available somewhere ?

NOTE: NOT FOR USE DURING LAST 30 DAYS

This treatment is a preparation of two products. This should be applied as a dip.

SAFETY FIRST: Wear protective gear and don’t get on your skin or anywhere on you for that matter. This stuff doesn’t play around.

Avid @ 1.2 mL/Gallon OR FloraMite SC @ 2.0 mL/Gallon
TetraSan 5 WDG @ 1 Gram/Gallon

To mix, fill dip container half way and add the granular TetraSan while mixing, then add the Avid or FloraMite while mixing. Check pH and adjust to 7.0.
Dip container: For small plants use a 5 gallon bucket, larger plants use a 30 gallon drum (my preferred).

DIPPING: Take plant and with your hand hold the dirt /main stem into the pot and turn upside down gently. Slowly submerge plant in dip tank up to the pot rim, gently pull it back out. Set aside and do next plant. After done dipping spray trunk of plant and topsoil as well as inner and outer pot.

This treatment is good for 28 days of protection. Use right before flowering cycle.

To maximize effectiveness use FloraMite as a rotational substitute for Avid. Avid is my preferred option when plants are too large to dip and sprayer must be used.

If spraying you must get undersides of leaves or there is little effect.

I like to dip clones using FloraMite/TetraSan. Plants going into flower get Avid/TetraSan.

Happy growing and down with mites!

I never use chemicals, so I don’t know enough about these products to respond in detail. But avid is highly toxic to humans and if I recall, it is absorbed systemically into the plant so you will get exposed to it no matter when you spray it in the grow cycle.

spraying your garden with Avid breeds pesticide resistant mites that are much harder to get rid of.

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Riddle me this. If I nuke a clone and make it totally pest free and THEN CLONE IT explain to me how the clone will have ANY pesticide in it that can be measured?? Why would you assume anyone would grow out and consume a plant that’s been heavily treated??

I’m not assuming anything, simply warning people that to do so would be unsafe. Your post didn’t mention that.

Your post also doesn’t mention cloning the treated plants to get a healthy cutting, or discarding the treated plant.

either way, I would never use any of these chemicals in my garden, and I caution others not to.

You pretty much implied it.

Abamectin and floramite are banned substances here. Pretty sure they are translaminar as in they enter the plant tissues you sprayed it on.

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lol! In case there’s a human on the planet who hasn’t heard my speech. I use water to get rid of pests, by washing the clones thoroughly before bringing them into my grow. If there is a terrible bug problem that is impossible to get rid of, I haven’t seen one yet that can withstand the physical attack of a good cleaning. The problem with poisons is the bug will eventually tolerate it and even thrive. I used to use nerve agents to kill off the mites. Until it failed.
I take a tiny clone and get rid of the leaves and then submerge it in cold water for 15-20min. Scrub it off and put it in the cloner.

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